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Shelby drop and lowering spring
- Thread starter 67stang
- Start date
Or a car that actually saw the road, come to think about it.
Caltracs are sweet and will surely stop the wheel hop. Make sure you have your springs finalized before you buy though. Different brackets based on the type of spring. See my build thread for more details.
I took a front picture of the camber adjustment, and was previously mistaken. It looks like I do have room to adjust the camber negative.
So if that's the case should I still take out one 1/8 shim? Or what I was thinking: Maybe as it sits right now adjust the camber to see if I can get a negative camber? If so do I do it with weight on wheels? And I assume I just loosen the fwd nut, the rotate the back nut/shaft?
Thoughts anyone?
Front view looking aft.
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I took a front picture of the camber adjustment, and was previously mistaken. It looks like I do have room to adjust the camber negative.
So if that's the case should I still take out one 1/8 shim? Or what I was thinking: Maybe as it sits right now adjust the camber to see if I can get a negative camber? If so do I do it with weight on wheels? And I assume I just loosen the fwd nut, the rotate the back nut/shaft?
Thoughts anyone?
Front view looking aft.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
UPDATE:
Good news I marked the camber adjustment then I Rotated the shaft and was able to get negative camber. Lots lol. I put it back to a near neutral setting (just using a digital level)
So I think "Horseplay" you mention I should just to the alignment myself, and get the alignment tool.
I leaning towards doing that. I'm pretty comfortable with the camber now. The caster seems basic, just loosen and adjust the length.
And the toe you do this separately with a measuring tape? And adjust what is connected to the tie rods on either side? Also does the toe even change with this drop?
So this is the tool. Anything else major I need to know? I figure down the road I will have to by more parts so if I'm able to do own alignment anytime that would be awesome!!
Does anyone else have comments on using this tool?
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Last edited:
Caster is the more tricky one as there are multiple parts and adjustments involved. Caster is, in very basic terms, determined by how much the top ball joint is moved to the rear as compared to the lower joint. Unequal shimming of the UCA and the strut rod affect it, for example. If you have more shims on the rear UCA bolt you reduce caster. Playing with the shims, however also changes your camber...hence the trickiness.
Toe is the easiest. Once you have everything else set you take measurement of the distance apart of the front of the wheels as compared to the back. You're shooting for about but no more than 1.8" toe in.
I still think you need to pull those wheel spacers and see if you have clearance. If you do, Then get your camber by moving the LCA first. In pics it looks like your wheels stick out a bit farther than ideal
Toe is the easiest. Once you have everything else set you take measurement of the distance apart of the front of the wheels as compared to the back. You're shooting for about but no more than 1.8" toe in.
I still think you need to pull those wheel spacers and see if you have clearance. If you do, Then get your camber by moving the LCA first. In pics it looks like your wheels stick out a bit farther than ideal
I know you meant 1/8"
Missed it by one key space.
Hmm,
Playing around with camber the tire now seems slightly more inside. When my new upper control arms comes in, I'll see what happens when I take out the wheel spacer, but I tell ya, that control arms is sure close to the rim. About a 1/4 inch.
So I've only done the right side, funny thing is that my toe seems to be dead on strait(using a tape measure from tread groove to tread grove.
Patrick Stapler
Active Member
And you would still be off by 1/16"...sorry.
Those new pics show where things sit much better. That is really close to the wheel. Your tire position inside the finder lip looks better than in the first.
Are you saying to target 1/16" toe? I don't disagree but setting it up at home with a tape measure that's pretty tight. This is why I wrote it as I did saying about but nor more than 1/8". Better to have a tad more toe in than come up short and have toe out. 1/8" toe in is not going to cause you any problems or wear.
Patrick Stapler
Active Member
No just poking fun at the math...you said 1.8"', Mark said 1/8", you said you missed it by one keystroke which I assume would be .18" which is 3/16" not 2/16" or 1/8" a difference of 1/16".
My car with the Arning drop is -1 camber, +4 caster, 1/8" TI.
My car with the Arning drop is -1 camber, +4 caster, 1/8" TI.
Look at your keyboard. Period right next to / was my reference. Math...noooooo!
Uh what? Me no understand.
Patrick Stapler
Active Member
Oh...sorry. Not on iPad. , next to .
100% agree!! And that's I thinks is still a slight positive camber.
I won't mess with the camber any more until I get all the parts and do both sides. I think you were right on taking out one 1/8 shim, I'll do the same on the left. I have to put things on hold, going out of town. Uhg.
Interesting about the alignment. If my alignment say was perfect before I started, and the drop springs and the arning drop for the 67 is straight down, why would the caster get out of place or the toe?
FYI: I'm obviously a rookie when it comes to stangs/cars.
Stay tuned.
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The "drop" is both down and back. It changes a lot of the geometry. Thing is you never knew just exactly what the alignment specs were before you started. I've had experience were I thought I had a good set-up on my truck, it tracked great, etc. but I started to notice uneven tire wear which prompted me to check it out and it was not even close.