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Switching to Synthetic Oil???

About time you recognized my status, pleeb.

So reading your report (which I now remember seeing before) the key thing to narrow in on when comparing a "race" oil vs. a street oil is the TBN (total base number). Did far too much research on this late last night/early this morning before posting a reply.

The TBN of an oil is an indicator of how the oil will protect the engine in a manner required more by a street engine than one used for racing over extended use. In terms of a street driven engine this is say from 0-3000 miles of driving. The TBN measures the oil components that battle the residual effects of combustion, namely water. Most street oils will start with a TBN in the range of 8-9, some even higher. Royal Purple HPS for example is over 10. The TBN value will drop significantly as soon as the oil is put into use. Race oils are not intended for extended use, generally speaking. If {.}, and I know this is even silly to suggest, COULD keep an engine together long enough to run 3000 miles, he certainly wouldn't use the same oil for such extended track duty. So in his case the TBN isn't really a factor. Not to mention, the way a race engine is used (high RPM/severe duty=high heat) also negates the need for the basic TBN function. A street driven car, however, will often see short drive use where the engine may never even reach a high enough temperature to deal with the resulting combustion affect. The other thing to know is the TBN value drops off very sharply as soon as an oil is used. This is why street oils start out with a much higher content level.

Anyway, here's one of many sources on the subject I found. I post it because it has test data on some popular oils for comparison and the source seems to know the subject well. It's not hard to find lots of info on the subject by Googling "oil TBN content" or similar.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28027
 
Look for Amsoil Z-Rod oil it's formulated for engines with flat tappets with a high Zinc content, 10w-30 or 20w-50. I've used Amsoil since 1988 in all my cars and use Z-Rod in my 70 Mustang.

I run the 10w-30 Z-Rod with a Wix filter. The stock oil gauge never shows any oil pressure drop. I used to run Mobil 1 10w-50 which made the oil pressure run high.
 
AMSOIL racing 20W-50. End of story.

I have each drain analyzed and TBN, and about 30 other measurements are done.
 
For what it's worth, I just switched from 10w30 Brad Penn dino (which is really good oil supposedly) to Royal Purple 10W30 over the weekend simply because the place I get the Penn from is 50 miles away and was closed and the Napa in town had the Purple.

Surprisingly to me I picked up about 8-10 lbs. of oil pressure throughout the RPM range, and the engine ran about 8-10 degrees cooler. I was a little surprised to see that much difference. I may just stick with the Purple stuff.
 
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