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Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....(engine's out)

A

Anonymous

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is there anything out there that is better to keep roller rockers on the studs than poly locks? Are diff brands of poly locks better than others?

I currently have Crane gold race rollers (1.6, 3/8" stud) with the locks that came with them. I don't see a reason to change rockers, but I would like to fix this problem where the locks have loosened and or come off. I'll probably replace all the studs, one chrome moly hardened pushrod and the solid lifters.....again. This was the second time I've had a lock get loose and the rocker come off and I'd like to solve this problem so a diff one can show up :eek:mg

is there another setup all together that would replace what I currently have? Give me some (legitimate) ideas. Money's no object since Pete said he would pay for it all!
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

"silverblueBP" said:
Money's no object since Pete said he would pay for it all!
Click to expand...

Damn glad he didn't say AzPete.....really feel sorry for that "Pete" guy.
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

"AzPete" said:
Damn glad he didn't say AzPete.....really feel sorry for that "Pete" guy.
Click to expand...
huh my names Pete also... im out of here
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

If money's (truly) no object, I'd throw a Jesel or Sharp shaft rocker setup on there. Problem completely and permanently resolved for about $1000.... :$$$ I LOVE spending other people's money... :naug

A stud girdle might possibly be a good addition. I don't recall which heads you're using or the cam specs though...

At the very least, we need to look at what products you are currently using as well as the adjustment method. There IS a wrong way to tighten polylocks...

I would ONLY use ARP studs (Pro Series) and locks (Permalocks, IIRC) for your application. Period. It's quality stuff. Unfortunately, many of the cam makers are using imported stuff to save a few bucks. Not sure I'd trust "Crane", Comp, or Summit-branded stuff anymore - at least not at 7500 rpm. May be just fine for the 98% of their customer base that never sees over 6500. I seem to recall someone posting about problems with moving adjustments on another forum... and they threw away studs and locks that came with their aftermarket aluminum heads, went to ARP, and solved the issue. Seems the cheapo studs were too soft. ARP, Jesel, Sharp, Crower (& maybe some Isky) are the names I'D be looking for in your future.

On your locks, how are you tightening them? The proper way is to loosen the inner nut, adjust the outer nut where you want it, back it off 1/8 turn, snug the inner nut, then tighten BOTH inner & outer together 1/8 turn. Many people try to hold the outer and tighten the inner - that will loosen up, IME, especially with a solid cam and high rpm.

I know camachinist is a little tied up with life issues right now. When he's back, you should get in touch with him - maybe even send the broken stuff to him for inspection. I'm SURE he'll have some valuable input.
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

"On your locks, how are you tightening them? The proper way is to loosen the inner nut, adjust the outer nut where you want it, back it off 1/8 turn, snug the inner nut, then tighten BOTH inner & outer together 1/8 turn. Many people try to hold the outer and tighten the inner - that will loosen up, IME, especially with a solid cam and high rpm."

That's how I tighten them.

I was thinking ARP too.
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

the-original%E2%84%A2-curved-jaw-locking-pliers-with-wire-cutter-276.jpg
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

Wouldn't that crowded under the valve covers?
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

For that mod, I have heard you can use the taller covers plus the spacer made to lift the covers. :lol :lol :lol
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

I finally have a free day tomorrow, gonna yank out the engine and see what's bad. Might just drop the 7.3 out of the F250 back in.
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

What did you find?

Going to suck at the October 6 track day.

Hopefully you and Dan will be ready to go next year.
 
Re: Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....

I started to take it out, drained the water and took out the radiator. Disconnected all the lines and then said F it. Just didn't feel like crawling under it to take out the gazillion bell housing bolts. I'll maybe finish it up this week....maybe.
 
Deb and I took the pup for a 4 mile walk this morning and when we got back I decided to go ahead and pull the engine out of the car.

So far it's as bad as I thought. It'll need a new cam, lifters, pushrod, rocker stud, stud girdles and locks. While it's out I'll add some studs for the valve covers and oil pan. Maybe rollerize the clutch equalizer bar.

I'm on the fence about a new clutch. It's been on there for 6 yrs, but still looks OK. The flywheel is starting to show some wear, but nothing bad. Just replaced the throwout bearing last spring. At least the rear main seal has not been leaking :eek:mg

Empty once more....

2010-10-01_17-20-48_857Large.jpg


2010-10-01_17-22-11_464Large.jpg


Frick'n, rass'n, fabergaster.

2010-10-01_17-46-00_595Large.jpg


Here's what came out of the Gano filter.

2010-10-01_17-35-20_193Large.jpg


and what was stuck to the oil pan magnetic plug.

2010-10-01_17-21-42_600Large.jpg




Who knows what more I'll find when I pull the pan and root around. It'll be a long winter. Maybe I'll even build a cool HD engine crossmember with a jack pad.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You pulled the engine, leaving the bellhousing in place? I didn't think that could be done!
 
Sure....why not?

I like the arrow on the water pump......is that to tell you which side the steering wheel is on?

No small filings in the oil? Might split the filter open and look at it too.
 
"Midlife" said:
You pulled the engine, leaving the bellhousing in place? I didn't think that could be done!
Click to expand...

WTH??? do it all the time.
 
"AzPete" said:
Sure....why not?

I like the arrow on the water pump......is that to tell you which side the steering wheel is on?

No small filings in the oil? Might split the filter open and look at it too.
Click to expand...


Drug a magnet around in the drained oil, nothing yet. Removing the pan, heads, main caps, filter, etc...will be tomorrow, maybe. Seeing as I do not have the extra cash to put it all back together, I'm in no hurry.

I might add a new oil pump to the list to be safe.
 
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