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Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....(engine's out)

"silverblueBP" said:
WTH??? do it all the time.
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Do tell how that is done. I presume you have to move the engine forward so that it clears the front shaft of the tranny, then up and out. I didn't think there was enough room to do so without hitting the radiator support.

The reverse must be difficult as well, as stabbing the tranny can be a pain!
 
Even if you leave the bell housing on the engine and disconnect the trans....you have to clear the same shaft....with a bulkier item.
 
There's plenty of room if you remove the fan. In fact, I've even left the fan attached and got it out. It's just easier if you remove it. It is close if you leave the export brace on, but still doable.

I've never had any trouble R&R the engine by myself. I don't have the luxury of having people close by...with beer.
 
As far as putting the engine back in, it usually takes me the most time to line the motor mounts back up. It always seems that one bolt hole is a bear. Bolting it back up to the housing is usually pretty easy. Get it close and then rotate the crank till the clutch slips in.
 
What's all that crap trapped by the GANO filter? Looks like rust and gasket material, and a lot of it, or is it magnified?

And, where did you find that braided ground strap?
 
It's rust scale and a couple tiny pcs of what looks like clear silicone. I don't remember ever using clear silicone though!

IIRC, I found that strap at an O'reilly's or Autozone years ago.
 
I found these parts in the oil pan. Most of the poly lock and more lifter pcs. There's still more of the lock in there somewhere. I guess I'll tear it completely down.

The broken lock on the left, a good one on the right and the parts below.



Polylockparts.jpg





You can that the set screw is pretty deep in the lock on the right. It's amazing that it came out of the lock on the left when only the bottom 3/16" is gone. The ARP stud that it came off of is slightly bent, but that probably happened when it came off.
 
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:hijacked
2010-10-01_17-20-48_857Large.jpg

since it's already been hijacked, what's the plugs in the heater hose holes? and heater block-off plate homemade? I need to do this to the drag car. Also, need to replace the studs in my heads too "before" they break. I think I have the same design rocker arms?
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I made the heater delete plate by welding on bolts to a pc of sheet metal. The heater plugs are expanding rubber plugs.

Those rockers look like Harland Sharps. I'm gonna add stud girdles so I won't have that problem again.


HS
sbc-716s.gif



Crane Gold
crn-10750-16_cp.jpg
 
Got a chance to check the stud deflection, dang near a thousandths movement! Maybe that explains why it might have loosened up. I measured the # 3 intake since the crap one is bent and the threads are shot.




RockerstudflexLarge.jpg
 
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"silverblueBP" said:
Got a chance to check the stud deflection, dang near a thousandths movement! Maybe that explains why it might have loosened up. I measured the # 3 intake since the crap one is bent and the threads are shot.




RockerstudflexLarge.jpg
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You might want to recheck it with the dial indicator's tip closer to the center of the flat section on the polylock... it might just be an illusion, but it looks like the side of the tip is touching point on the poly lock. Also square up the dial to get a truer reading...

Are you going to go with 7/16 studs now?
 
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You're probably correct, I didn't have enough time to set it up on the flat. I'm planning on checking them all before I take the heads off.

Staying with the 3/8" studs, but adding the girdles.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
You're probably correct, I didn't have enough time to set it up on the flat. I'm planning on checking them all before I take the heads off.

Staying with the 3/8" studs, but adding the girdles.
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Is it legal to have both "studs" and "girdles" in the same sentence? Where are the Grammar Nazis?
 
Damn Mark - sorry to see that.

And to make matters worse, I just sold my, NIP, 3/8" ARP rocker studs at the swap meet - otherwise you could have had them, sorry.

I prefer 7/16" - so I modified my heads.
 
If I change to 7/16" studs I'd have to buy all new rockers...not gonna happen.
 
Here's a pic of the # 2 exhaust after repositioning the gauge. Just a tad bit over 1/1000 of movement.



Flexcheck2ExhLarge.jpg
 
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