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Too much coin....

Holy crap :yikes

I spend $20 on club membership, $60 per track day (5-10) and if I do the Porsche & Audi Club DE's another $300 each(none this year). If I did all available events a year that would be $1,520/year.

I'm happy running at Heartland Park, great people, inexpensive and a great track.
 
The Music City Mustang Club hosts opentrack events at Nashville Super Speedway a couple times a year for $135 and you can save $20 with advance registration. The track might have a opentrack deal too, I don't know.
 
The next track event for me is $250 per day or $450 for two days, Sat-Sun, if I could make it. On top of that is brakes and tires, spare parts, travel and food, accommodations etc. It cost us 1K for an out of town two day event if we can stay at the track in the RV and the car don't break. So yea. It ain't cheap. I would do it every day if I could.

The 30K is way over the top. I had 7K in our 65 coup when we started. That was the car, some spare parts and a set of racing rims and tires. You can do the car on the cheap. 300HP is plenty for a novice track car.
 
Well, I sent a few emails off to the "most local to me" tracks. There are three of them, with the closest being a 10 hour roundtrip drive.

I'm thinking that this winter I'll start looking harder for a spare set of wheels and set them up with some track tires.

Question #1 - Do I need to run special purpose track tires on the front also? I'm presently running BFG G-Force sports and they seem to stick okay during agressive local driving. Recommendations?


What I'm really afraid of is trying it... and liking it too much.

I work for a USGOV contractor right outside the local Marine Corps Air Station. A couple of months ago I received an email from a buddy asking me if I was taking my car to the base that weekend as they were closing off the runways and coning out a road course. I was PO'ed because we were heading out of town that weekend and wouldn't be able to try it. It was only $25 for a full saturday of racing and the Marines had brought in some professional drivers to give pointers/assist. I'm even more pissed now that I'm dwelling on it.....
 
Dave,

I guarandamntee you will like it too much! It's legalized crack.

I second set for the track really isn't needed till you get some seat time. Street tread to start with is actually a good learning tool, you'll get a better feel at slower speeds. Once you put on R comps, it can mask bad driving with ridiculous amounts of traction. You should have 4 of the same tire, not necessarily the same size, but the same type.

I personally prefer all 4 to be the same size and type, that way you can flip and rotate to get max use out of them.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
I guarandamntee you will like it too much! It's legalized crack.
Click to expand...
I just had my first taste last weekend (only "parade" laps) and I can say it's the most fun you can have with your clothes on!
It was the hardest I've ever pushed a car (in the twisty's) and man it was a blast. I'm thinking I will pony up and pay for the next full session. I always envisioned my car as a straight line performer but it did surprisingly well and I am hooked!
 
I suppose you had to find out sooner or later. Seriously, you go out for your first session and you come back in without a huge shit eat'n grin...they'll give you your money back.


It's NEVER happened!
 
Thunderhill is where the event is and it's 5hrs away from us. We have done it many times but it has never been an overnight trip or day trip. No way I would drive the car that far and run it.

I wish I would have started sooner, it is the most fun I have ever had.
 
Luckily for me, the track is a short 75 min drive over empty roads! I am glad that I bought the trailer to haul the car, it's had a few problems over the years that would have been a bitch to fix at the track to drive it home.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Well, I sent a few emails off to the "most local to me" tracks. There are three of them, with the closest being a 10 hour roundtrip drive.

I'm thinking that this winter I'll start looking harder for a spare set of wheels and set them up with some track tires.

Question #1 - Do I need to run special purpose track tires on the front also? I'm presently running BFG G-Force sports and they seem to stick okay during agressive local driving. Recommendations?


What I'm really afraid of is trying it... and liking it too much.

I work for a USGOV contractor right outside the local Marine Corps Air Station. A couple of months ago I received an email from a buddy asking me if I was taking my car to the base that weekend as they were closing off the runways and coning out a road course. I was PO'ed because we were heading out of town that weekend and wouldn't be able to try it. It was only $25 for a full saturday of racing and the Marines had brought in some professional drivers to give pointers/assist. I'm even more pissed now that I'm dwelling on it.....
Click to expand...


Three things you can't run at the track and be safe.

#1 - Street tires. They are made to run cold. On the track they get hot and ball up causing big problems. Wadding up the car is one.

#2 - Street brake pads. They are made to run cold and don't work when they get hot. Again, car wadding is an issue when they don't work.

#3 - Street alignment settings cause lack of grip and worn outside edge on the front tires.


You can drive a track car on the street with street tires but the track alignment will wear the tires an the track brake pads don't work well when cold. There is no car on the planet that does both well, it ain't gonna happen. You have to have track parts on the track and street parts on the street. Just my opinion folks, take it with salt or suger.
 
Three things you can't run at the track and be safe.

#1 - Street tires. They are made to run cold. On the track they get hot and ball up causing big problems. Wadding up the car is one.

#2 - Street brake pads. They are made to run cold and don't work when they get hot. Again, car wadding is an issue when they don't work.

#3 - Street alignment settings cause lack of grip and worn outside edge on the front tires.


You can drive a track car on the street with street tires but the track alignment will wear the tires an the track brake pads don't work well when cold. There is no car on the planet that does both well, it ain't gonna happen. You have to have track parts on the track and street parts on the street. Just my opinion folks, take it with salt or suger.
Click to expand...


Being a Newbie at this, any and all info is more than welcome! Thanks again.


I received an email response today from one of the facilities I inquired with yesterday. Still a little pricey, but I don't have many options..... It appears from their website that I'll have to do a $275 one day Drivers Education class before I can do any solo events.




HI Dave, My name is Sylvia and I coordinate the Palmetto Motorsports Club and Turn One Track Events so Toni forwarded your email to me..so if you will look in the body of your email I have answered your questions in BOLD CAPS.

I'm contacting you from EasternNC. There is no road course in my area and your facility is one of the closest to me. I am considering trailering/driving my car (street car.... highly modified '66 Mustang) to your facility to experience driving on a road course. THAT WOULD BE GREAT!! Your website mentions "guest memberships", but guests of whom?.....AS PART OF THE PALMETTO MOTORSPORTS CLUB PERKS, DEPENDING ON THE LEVEL OF MEMBERSHIP CHOSEN, THE MEMBER CAN INVITE FRIEND(S) TO PARTICIPATE AS THEIR GUESTS. as I don't know any of your members. Or would I be a guest of the facility? IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANY MEMBERS, IT IS NOT A PROBLEM, YOU CAN COME TO THE TRACK UNDER THE TURN ONE TRACK EVENTS (WHICH IS KIND OF LIKE THE LITTLE SISTER OF THE PMC). T1 PIGGY-BACKS ON THE 52 TRACK DAYS THAT THE CLUB RUNS. NOW DEPENDING ON YOUR SKILL LEVEL AND THE NUMBER OF DAYS THAT YOU WANT TO ATTEND THE PRICES ARE 1) HIGH PERFORMANCE DRIVERS' EDUCATION- FOR FOLKS WHO HAVE NO ROAD COURSE EXPERIENCE NOR HAVE BEEN SIGNED OFF BY A CLUB SUCH AS PORSCHE CLUB, BMW, MUSTANG, ETC.) THE COST WOULD BE $275 FOR 1 DAY AND $450 FOR 2 DAYS. FOR FOLKS WHO HAVE MORE EXPERIENCE AND WANT A MORE CHALLENGING SITUATION THAT WOULD BE EITHER SOLO OR SUPER SOLO. FOR BOTH OF THESE GROUPS WE WOULD REQUIRE DOCUMENTATION OF ACCOMPLISHMENT OR RACE LICENSE. FOR THIS GROUP THE CHARGES WOULD BE $225 OR $350. NOW WITH ANY OF THESE THERE IS AN "EARLY BIRD DISCOUNT" WHICH WOULD REDUCE THE COSTS TO $240/$415 AND $190/$315 (1 AND 2 DAYS) At any rate, what fees are associated with a "one-time" use of your facility? IF YOU WOULD LIKE MORE INFORMATION OR FORMS, THERE ARE TWO WEBSITES AVAILABLE FOR YOUR REVIEW: WWW.TURNONETRACKEVENTS.COM. CLICK ON ON BLUE BAR ON HOME PAGE AND SCROLL DOWN. FOR CLUB INFORMATION, CHECK OUT WWW.CAROLINAMOTORSPORTSPARK.COM AND CLICK ON THE PALMETTO MOTORSPORTSCLUB. ANY OTHER QUESTIONS, PLEASE EMAIL ME. IF YOU'D LIKE TO COME AND VISIT WITH US PRIOR TO MAKING A DECISION, PLEASE COME TO ONE OF OUR EVENTS AND CHECK US OUT!!
 
I personally think it's a good idea to do a HPDE the first time on track, the instruction you will get is invaluable. Your first few times out you will not be (nor shouldn't be) taking the car to your limits. You should go with the anticipation of learning how to drive on track, the speed will come as you progress. You will soon realize what's fast on the street is slow on the track!

Take all the instruction that you can get, try to get guys/gals that drive a rear drive car so the lines will be similar. I had a front drive instructor at a Porsche HPDE for one session. He got out and said he would find me a rear drive guy cause what he was telling me was just going to screw me up.

Keep in mind that each instructor will give you a slightly diff line and then you will need to search out what works best for you and the car...that's one of the fun parts for me.

Most track people are extremely friendly and helpful. Ride with each instructor and see the line and the speeds that he runs, that helps a bunch too.

Like John said, good brakes, alignment and 5 or 6pt belts will keep you tight in the seat so you can "feel" what the car is telling you. Check every nut & bolt before you go, take lots of water and have someone ready with a camera when you step out of the car after your first session!
 
"Opentracker" said:
Three things you can't run at the track and be safe.

#1 - Street tires. They are made to run cold. On the track they get hot and ball up causing big problems. Wadding up the car is one.

#2 - Street brake pads. They are made to run cold and don't work when they get hot. Again, car wadding is an issue when they don't work.

#3 - Street alignment settings cause lack of grip and worn outside edge on the front tires.


You can drive a track car on the street with street tires but the track alignment will wear the tires an the track brake pads don't work well when cold. There is no car on the planet that does both well, it ain't gonna happen. You have to have track parts on the track and street parts on the street. Just my opinion folks, take it with salt or suger.
Click to expand...

I actually like suggesting street tires for a newb. It'll stop you going too fast and really making a mess of it. You won't get enough traction with street tires to go really quick through turns. They'll howl like crazy way before breaking loose and give you plenty of warning that you are approaching their limit.

I ran street tires for years before getting another set of rims for DOT slicks. I kept my alignment set for the track. The few thousand street miles I did a year took years and years to wear out the inside edge of the front tires. The track took care of the outside edge so they wore evenly!

Brakes will probably be your biggest issue. You'll need fresh fluid, higher temp pads and depending on the track, rotor size, Hp and how much you actually brake - ducting.
 
Dave should start a new thread titled "How to help Dave spend his retirement on HP car parts for the track"

:gs
 
"Shaun" said:
I actually like suggesting street tires for a newb. It'll stop you going too fast and really making a mess of it. You won't get enough traction with street tires to go really quick through turns. They'll howl like crazy way before breaking loose and give you plenty of warning that you are approaching their limit.

I ran street tires for years before getting another set of rims for DOT slicks. I kept my alignment set for the track. The few thousand street miles I did a year took years and years to wear out the inside edge of the front tires. The track took care of the outside edge so they wore evenly!

Brakes will probably be your biggest issue. You'll need fresh fluid, higher temp pads and depending on the track, rotor size, Hp and how much you actually brake - ducting.
Click to expand...



Good point about the newbie and the street tires. It will slow you down, the squeeling is a good hint your going to fast LOL.
 
I still remember the first time I got into a "real" racecar at Track Attack in Indianapolis. They have Spec racers on a 1/2 mile track. You don't get very fast, but it feels like it on such a tight course. The instructor kept saying "squealing tires are happy tires" :toot
 
Thanks for all of the tips guys. I'm absorbing everything and appreciate the words of wisdom from the "been there, done that" crowd.

My '66 has the 5 point Simpson camlock belt setup, but I believe the dates on the belts have expired. Is this an issue?

The car also has late model 4 wheel disc brakes. Will installing ducting provide that much more benefit? I have an R model front apron on the car and never ran the ducting over to the front brakes because I assumed they would be much more efficient than the old factory brakes... and they are.
 
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