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What degree thermostat to use and what Radiator?

We can go back and forth all day but its not worth the time if all we are going to do is contradict each other without trying to understand the basic physic principles in play. I think we can all agree that in order for a radiator to reduce the temperature of the fluid flowing through it one key component is time. If the fluid flows through too quickly it simply will not lose heat at the same rate/level as it would at a slower rate. Not nonsense. Not BS. Scientific fact. The simplest example I can think of is an iron. When one is pressing their pants they don't hold their hand against the surface of the iron to see if it is hot but rather might quickly tap it with a finger to sense the heat. Why do we do it this way? Because if you hold your finger against it too long you get burned! Same kind of basic idea with flow through a radiator. It takes time for the heat to transfer out of the fluid and into the surface of the radiator and then out to the surrounding air.

The assumption that regardless of flow rate the water spends just as much time in the radiator is correct but that doesn't mean the time is enough to provide any or enough cooling effect. What percentage of the fluid loop is in the radiator as compared to in the heat source (engine)? If 40% is rad time and 60% is in the heat source what is going to happen if the radiator is not capable of "keeping up"? Yep, temps will rise. Such as when sitting in traffic, etc. Like the poster is having issue.

The thing when using such a low temp thermostat is that it opens fully sooner and will NEVER close in a application as we are discussing. Therefore the flow rate is at it's least restricted state all the time. Coupled with a slightly under performing radiator (as is likely the original posters issue) the engine and thus the coolant temperature can and likely will continue to rise.

Now if one were to put in a 180* thermostat it is possible that the same set-up could run cooler and not see the same rise in temperature because its possible the thermostat would partially close at times (cruising speed) when the lower temp unit would remain fully open, restricting the flow rate and allowing the radiator to do a better job of cooling. That is not nonsense that is how the system is designed to operate.

Remember, all of this is based on a system utilizing a borderline/maybe eve slightly under-performing radiator. If one had a massive, highly efficient unit you could run a 195* unit and never see a temp above 160* but that is not the issue these posts have been trying to address.

I'm done on this issue after this. If you don't agree that's fine. If anyone wants to do more research, maybe talk to experts and engine builders...have at it. I have spent my share of time doing such and keep coming back with the same conclusions, explanations and firsthand experiences.
 
If the fluid flows through too quickly it simply will not lose heat at the same rate/level as it would at a slower rate. Not nonsense. Not BS. Scientific fact. The simplest example I can think of is an iron. When one is pressing their pants they don't hold their hand against the surface of the iron to see if it is hot but rather might quickly tap it with a finger to sense the heat. Why do we do it this way? Because if you hold your finger against it too long you get burned! Same kind of basic idea with flow through a radiator. It takes time for the heat to transfer out of the fluid and into the surface of the radiator and then out to the surrounding air.

i don't agree. your example of the iron is completely flawed as well as an example because the total exposure time in both instances (tapping versus holding) are completely different and doesn't even correlate to your example. to equate the iron example to a engine/radiator would be to say you touch the iron for 5 seconds on, 5 seconds off versus 1 second on 1 second off and do that for ten minutes. the total exposure time in both cases would be the same. the temperature delta in the 5 seconds on/off case would simply be greater.

you keep talking physics and scientific fact but i don't see what scientific fact or physics you refer to.

i'll pass on the experts on a Jalopy Journal/Hokey Ass Message Boards or GMC 4X4 forums.

http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/cooling_faq.html
 
i don't agree. your example of the iron is completely flawed as well as an example because the total exposure time in both instances (tapping versus holding) are completely different and doesn't even correlate to your example. to equate the iron example to a engine/radiator would be to say you touch the iron for 5 seconds on, 5 seconds off versus 1 second on 1 second off and do that for ten minutes. the total exposure time in both cases would be the same. the temperature delta in the 5 seconds on/off case would simply be greater.

you keep talking physics and scientific fact but i don't see what scientific fact or physics you refer to.

i'll pass on the experts on a Jalopy Journal/Hokey Ass Message Boards or GMC 4X4 forums.

http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/cooling_faq.html
I know I said I would be done and I really want to be but I think we are close here.

Do you believe all radiators, in the same application, will provide the exact same cooling effect? If you do we are really are done. If you don't than continue reading.

My iron example is very applicable and not flawed. I used it to reference the time it takes for the coolant to make it through the radiator. I can tap my finger on a hot iron all day and never get burned provided I allow enough time "off" the iron between touches. That is what a well designed automotive cooling system will do. In the automotive example, I would suggest that five seconds in the engine compared to five seconds in the radiator are not equal. Not if the radiator is not doing an equal job of cooling as the engine is of heating the coolant.

Depending on pressure the rate of flow can and will vary. That would be one of many scientific/physic "facts" I refer to. Your quoted piece makes it sound like a radiator will cool the fluid equally and positively exactly the same all other variables be damned. That simply isn't the case. For example, if you went from a 20" x 20" radiator and than switch to a 24" x 20" radiator do you not think you would gain an increase in the net cooling? If so, why is it so hard to accept that running the same volume of fluid through the same radiator at a slower rate, giving the fluid more time in the radiator would also net more cooling effect? That is all I am saying.

The other variable I honestly do not know how to calculate would be how much heat the engine places into the coolant versus how much heat the radiator withdraws "per cycle", to use your term. I am arguing that in the posters case, his apparently under-performing radiator is not matching or besting the heat generation of the engine because when left to do the cooling on its own (sitting in traffic) his engine temp continues to rise. I am suggesting that one way to improve the situation is to find a way to give the radiator more time "per cycle" to cool things down. More control of the flow rate is one way to do it. Installing a thermostat with a higher rating will do that.
 
180 thermostat ? Heck, these cars came from Ford with the 192/195 thermostats, and they ran fine. Running a 160 thermostat is a great way to wear your engine out faster. Machine shops love them , and the business they bring. No small block Ford should run a 160. They won't make your engine run cooler in really hot weather, but they will in the wintertime, much to the detriment of the engine longevity, and it doesn't make more power either than a hotter engine temp. As pointed out, a cool gas/air charge is what's desirable , not a cool engine .

Z
 
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Call Ray at Mustang Brothers in san Bruno and ask him which set up he uses on all the cars that he works on. 90% of the cars he works on are daily drivers.
 
So I'm going with a 180 stat and an Northern aluminum, 24" wide 2 row with huge 1" tubes high efficiency core(more tubes due to closer together and high fin count) and going to mount it like Jonk67 did.
 
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