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What say you: Speed Bleeders?

Best thing since sliced bread.

I bleed the brakes before every track event [nb]whether I actually get there or not[/nb] and it makes it so frick'n easy for one person to do. I've used them now for 3 years without any problems.

:thu
 
Sweet! Thank you. If they're that good, they sound well worth the 10 bucks a pair.

There ain't much I hate more than bleeding brakes. OK that's not true. Severe chest pain caused by my gall stone...I hate that more. But yeah, I hate bleeding brakes.
 
I used them with silicon brake fluid and couldn't get them to stop leaking. Dumped them and couldn't be happier.
 
Steve, here's what I do to bleed the brakes.

Put car on stands
Remove wheels
Remove dust covers from bleeders
I use a 2 liter soda bottle partially filled with brake fluid to capture the old fluid. Keep clear hose submersed in fluid.
Start at RR, move to LR and re-fill MC
Bleed RF then LF.
Top off MC.

It takes longer to put the car on stands then it does to bleed the system. If your wheels will allow it, you can bleed it on the ground with the wheels on to save time. With the speed bleeders it's a one man job. No cussing, no finding a "pumper". Just open the bleed screw 1/4 turn and slowly press the brake pedal a few times. Close the screw and you're done. Rock hard pedal without the hassle.

The bleeders came with a small bottle of sealer for the threads that you can re-apply as needed. I use Motul 600 RBF, Dot 4 fluid.

Side note; if you wrap an old coat hanger around the neck of the 2 L bottle, you can hang it off the wheel studs while bleeding each cylinder.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
Put car on stands
Remove wheels
Remove dust covers from bleeders
I use a 2 liter soda bottle partially filled with brake fluid to capture the old fluid. Keep clear hose submersed in fluid.
Start at RR, move to LR and re-fill MC
Bleed RF then LF.
Top off MC.

I notice you didn't put the wheels back on and take the car off the stands...might be why you don't get out to the track more often. Try that next time and see how it works.

Seriously, Thanks for the tips. I'll pick some up and see how they work out.

Steve
 
"gtscode" said:
I used them with silicon brake fluid and couldn't get them to stop leaking. Dumped them and couldn't be happier.

Huh. all 4 wheels leaking? from a design perspective, once they're locked down they shouldn't be any different than old-fashioned bleeders. the difference is the check-ball inside the bleeder. You think the brake fluid had something to do with it, or are you just saying?

Were you using Russell brand? my local O'Reilly's had some, in their "HELP!" section. I think the brand was, like, Motor Mike's or something? I dunno. But the price was the same as Russell, so I decided I'm gonna order a set of Russells.

Steve
 
"AtlantaSteve" said:
I notice you didn't put the wheels back on and take the car off the stands...might be why you don't get out to the track more often. Try that next time and see how it works.

Seriously, Thanks for the tips. I'll pick some up and see how they work out.

Steve


Had to leave something for the comedians.



Actually, it stays on the stands till I get done checking every nut & bolt. That's a fairly time consuming job.
 
Do you have a checklist, or do you just know what to go check? I'm still a ways off from putting my car back down, but it's getting closer, and I'm trying to come up with a good "pre-first-ride" checklist of what to check before I hit the open road. If you've got a list (like, already written down) I'd love a copy.
 
I copied his list:

1. see if engines broken yet,
2. see if it's a torrential downpour yet
3. repeat
 
"Jonk67" said:
I copied his list:

1. see if engines broken yet,
2. see if it's a torrential downpour yet
3. repeat


Et tu, Jon??
 
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