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Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading? Updated...pics added!

Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

I do agree a new block, 4 bolt mains and a forged crank are great ideas. Maybe I'll build the next one to run 8K rpm's :confu
 
Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

With your h beam rods, a four bolt block, forged crank and forged pistons, 8k is doable.

Although your original 7400 is more livable.
 
Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

"silverblueBP" said:
Speak English please.
Click to expand...
Basically, a longer connecting rod, with the short 289 stroke will be easier on parts at high rpm. The piston can be shorter & lighter. You'll have less friction and reduced side loads which is easier on the rods, crank, and block.
You'll also pick up some power, as long rod motors are more forgiving of restrictive iron heads

http://www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm.
 
Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

Got the car BACK up on stands today and took a closer look at the carnage. Besides oil being EVERY FRICK'N WHERE, I noticed the timing cover had been blown out, timing chain gone (Skip, check your grille) and the crank will move fore and aft about 1/4". Didn't see anything poking out of the oil pan or block, but at this point, that's irrelevant.



 
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Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

"silverblueBP" said:
....I'm not building a barn burner, nor do I want something that Jeremy would drive. ...
Click to expand...


:wtf


PS, at least it appears that Dan's powder coating held up well...
 
Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

"70_Fastback" said:
PS, at least it appears that Dan's powder coating held up well...
Click to expand...

....was it even dry?
 
Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

Timing chain forced his way out due the crank suddenly stop turning IMO :confu :confu

I see you use nuts instead of regular screw to hold the oilpan.
Clever way to align the oilpan when mounting it. Never noticed that on other engines. :confu :confu
 
Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

"B67FSTB" said:
Timing chain forced his way out due the crank suddenly stop turning IMO :confu :confu

I see you use nuts instead of regular screw to hold the oilpan.
Clever way to align the oilpan when mounting it. Never noticed that on other engines. :confu :confu
Click to expand...

I added studs to the oil pan and valve covers last year. It does make it much easier to install the pan and VC's. I'll do it again to the new motor.
 
Re: Who wants to see video of a 289 grenading?

My '66 289 broke its crank when I was braking hard at about 60 mph. The engine still ran -- meaning the timing chain was still in place -- but the balancer wobblies around as if the nose of the crank is broken. The engine eventually stopped running. Although I have not had the pan off yet, my theory is the crank snapped between the front main bearing and the timing gear. My further theory is that, when I applied the brakes with the clutch engaged, this put a deceleration force on the entire drivetrain. The balancer, however, did not feel like decelerating, and this is what caused the fracture. It seems like your crank broke in this same location: between the front main and the timing gear.
 
Had a chance to remove the motor and tear it down. Looks like the crank broke at the counterweight in front of the #2 main cap. Block is trashed, at least #1 and #2 connecting rods and pistons are trashed. Oil pump, front cover, cam timing gear and #2 main cap are toast as well. Part of the timing chain was still wedged inside and a big hole in the sidewall of the # 1 cylinder. The oil pan had more water than oil in it! There are quite a few bent valves and pushrods too. The heads seem to be OK. Saw a couple nics in the solid lifters, might have cam damage as well.

Here are a few pics.

















 
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Did you bored the cylinders?
What seize ?
Could it be that the cylinder wall #1 broke and alot of waer entered the cylinder ????
 
And here I was gonna give ya a big ration of snot for not crawlin' under it, tapin' it up and finishing the session, but I guess it's gonna take more than baling wire and duct tape. :nut
Hope you get it back up before the season's over. Good luck.
 
"B67FSTB" said:
Did you bored the cylinders?
What seize ?
Could it be that the cylinder wall #1 broke and alot of waer entered the cylinder ????
Click to expand...

It was only bored .030" over. My guess is that when the crank broke and the rods bent, it pushed the piston into the wall.
 
"Dennis Harrelson" said:
And here I was gonna give ya a big ration of snot for not crawlin' under it, tapin' it up and finishing the session, but I guess it's gonna take more than baling wire and duct tape. :nut
Hope you get it back up before the season's over. Good luck.
Click to expand...

LOL

Maybe some GOOP will fix it!
 
So , next engine has a different firing order ?

( to much load by cyl #1 and #5 on front of chrankshaft due to the firing order ) ?

change over to the 351W firing order ?
 
"B67FSTB" said:
So , next engine has a different firing order ?

( to much load by cyl #1 and #5 on front of chrankshaft due to the firing order ) ?

change over to the 351W firing order ?
Click to expand...

It was the 351 F.O.
 
That would make an awesome coffee table. Just mount some glass over it using long studs in the oil pan bolt holes... what do you want for it?
IMG_0112Large.jpg
 
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That is some beautiful carnage. That crank breaking where it did just ate the front of the motor. Hate it for you, but thanks for the pics.
Bill
 
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