Yoke and U-Joint Question

[beach pony]

Gentlemen, I need some help please. I have a leak at the tail shaft of my transmission. Back a year or so ago, I took the car to Aamco Transmissions here locally and had the C-4 gone through and worked on to the tune of about 1600.00 dollars. When I left, the guy there told me that he thought there was some wear on the yoke and that the seal may leak again. Low and behold I am back to having a leak. So back to the tranny shop I go. They proceed to get a yoke for the car and then tell me that the U-Joint won't fit the yoke. So they go ahead 9 days later and slap some kind of silly putty on the thing and it still leaks. Can y'all offer me some help here? I wonder if this jackleg ordered the wrong parts. Does anyone know what I am supposed to have? It's a 68 Coupe with a 302 and I think it's a 28 spline yoke. If I could at least get the right parts, I could have another guy put it together for me. I'm at the end of my rope! PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

 

[Midlife]

Oh for goodness sakes! Even the monkey at NAPA could find a u-joint that would mate your driveshaft to the yoke. You should also get a new seal on the tranny (cheap), but that's all that is needed. Probably a $100 bill at most.

 

[tarafied1]

there are different size u-joints. Ford Motorsport has a 1310/1330 conversion u-joint. It is not a "square" u-joint but different lengths to mate a yoke and shaft of different size. The Ford u-joint comes with both sized caps too because those can vary as well.

 

[beach pony]

So Craig is the easy solution to take out what I have and match it up at a local auto parts supplier?


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[tarafied1]

if you have one size for the yoke, and another for the shaft, they may not know what you need. Most parts houses can only look up what the puter calls for. But you might get lucky. Can you verify if the yoke is a 1310 or 1330 and the shaft as well? Ideally they will be the same but if not you will need the conversion u-joint. If you tell them that's what you want they may have one

 

[tarafied1]

1100 are 1.717" from inside clip to clip
1260 are 2.342" from inside clip to clip
1310 are 3.219 from cap to cap
1330 are 3.625 from cap to cap
the front u-joint should have a 1.062" diameter on all four caps. the rear u-joint could have 1.062" on one side and 1.125" the other
if the car has the original C4 and 8" rear I would guess it would have a 1310 u-joint that uses the outer C clip snap rings.

 

[tarafied1]

You might have an early Mustang inside "C" Clip style driveshaft with a newer outside snap ring style 1310 Series slip yoke. If that is the case you need:

• Dimensions:
  • Dimension "A" The span between the yoke inner surfaces where the "C" Clips lock in at the driveshaft is 2.344 inches
  • Dimension "C" = 2 bearing caps are 1 inch diameter with inside "C" Clips to lock the cap in place.
  • Dimension "B" = 3.219 inches wide where is connects to a 1310 series slip yoke
  • Dimension "D" = 2 bearing caps are 1.062 inch diameter where is connects to a 1310 series slip yoke with outside snap rings to lock the bearing caps in place

 

[beach pony]

Craig, is it easy to see some markings on the driveshaft and yoke or do they have to be measured?


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[tarafied1]

I think you will have to measure. I'm not familer enough with them to know what kind of marking they might have

 

[Ponyman66]

Ron, did you ever personally looked at the old yoke? If so, did you see a groove in it? There is a possibility that the seal installed was simply worn out. You may ask, "in a year"?! Yep, if they failed to check/replace the tail shaft bushing. You spent enough that they should have done a complete rebuild (which should include a new tail shaft bushing!).

You should also have no need for an odd conversion style u-joint had the proper yoke been ordered. It sounds like they ordered an AOD yoke. The snout is approximately 1" shorter (IIRC the dimension, it is shorter though), than the C4 yoke due an AOD requiring less engagement depth. It also uses the wider cross section and larger cap u-joint on the yoke side and small caps on the drive shaft side IF using an older shaft (such as your stock one). The splines are the same though so you can physically insert it into a C4.

I am currently minus use of one hand due to some surgery, but I still have use of the other one! Do I need to take a road trip this weekend? Oh, and I may have what should be the proper yoke and you'd be welcome to it.

 

[beach pony]

John, I am going to call you sometime today if that's alright.

 

[janschutz]

My vote is the tail shaft bushing. I had a lazy shop not replace this before and just replace the seal. The bushings have a tendency to get wallered out over the years.

 

[tarafied1]

I agree, they probably didn't change the bushing. The yoke being for an AOD is clever thinking, I had not thought of that. Sounds like you are in good hands now!

 

[Ponyman66]

Ron feel free to call. I'll PM the house number (you only have the cell number).

Craig I ain't all that! I just happen to have the AOD conversion yoke for my restomod project. I'd gone through the challenges of identifying which u-joint I needed. If not for that I certainly wouldn't have known!