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1967 Mustang EPAS and Manual Unisteer Rack and Pinion

67stang

Active Member
Since the rack will pretty much cover up the camber eccentric bolts I installed the loc-outs, they worked out great!! However the right side I used the original bolt and eccentric on the aft side and loc-out on the forward side, because the thickness of the loc-out and bolt head hits the rack.

Also it is true, when you cut out the one piece steering shaft make sure you cut it as close as you can (cabin side) near the firewall. Also I had to loosen up the exhaust to remove the gear box

Also it it tough by yourself to go back and forth and trim as necessary to fit the rack. So I used a Floor jack and it worked great.

I do have an issues with the tie rods. They came with 2 sets but both are to small. Hopefully Unisteer has a solution, if not I think mustangsteve has shims that might work.




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tarafied1

Well-Known Member
I have the ORP lock-out parts on my 67. I had them installed with an alignment because they are what controls your camber. Will you be able to get it aligned once the rack is on?
 

67stang

Active Member
Okay. The rack is mounted. A few setbacks. Just like the instructions stated I will need a mini starter. The regular starter was just to close.

Grinding takes time. I even had to grind the corners on the rack. But it is now mounted. I do have to say it sure seems very solid.

Waiting for some parts: correct tie rods, and firewall bearing (that i will have to mount).






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67stang

Active Member
Well the mini starter is in. OMG!! Wow this thing is awesome!! Not sure what brand it is but a local shop in town makes his own starters and had this laying around and advised it would work perfect. And he was right. Kind of glad I had to replace the starter. The clearance is perfect as well.




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tarafied1

Well-Known Member
I went with a mini starter on the big block also.
Also sharing a few pics of the EPAS motor for ya. I made a bracket that attaches to the brake pedal support to keep things from trying to rotate. I'ts hard to see but it works great. Sorry for the messy wiring, this was during install so I have cleaned itup a bit. Also it was an automatic when I installed it, now its a 5 speed. IMG_2514.jpg IMG_2515.jpg photo (22).jpg photo (19).jpgDSCN0550.JPG
 

67stang

Active Member
Okay not sure where to start:

IM DONE!! Lol

Wow that was a lot of work, especially since I did not but the actual EPAs kit. But I did save about 800$. But really it was a lot of work. Going back and forth. Installing them removing them installing them removing. Ran into a lot of little problems, like where do I put my emergency brake handle, where do I put the ECU, wrong tie rods were sent, try and find a serpentine belt that fits, Is the shaft to long too short. Mounting the control column to the electric motor( that was fun).

But OMG ITS FREAKIN AWESOME!!!!!! I barley even have it turned on and it works like a champ. I seriously dial it up not even a 1/4 turn and that’s all I need. That rack is freakin awesome too. ZERO PLAY!! And the turn radius is the same if not maybe better.

I do have to get use to how sensitive it is, even when it’s barely turned on. As there is zero play any movement obviously turns the car.

I have not been on the highway yet but will let you guys know how that turns out.

Still have to clean things up a tad but here is a pic.






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67stang

Active Member
I still notice that it’s really sensitive even when turned all the way done to almost off.

Interesting it almost feels like a little bump steer. Not sure though. I know my toe and camber are set, I will check my caster maybe later this week.


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67stang

Active Member
So I did check my alignment. .30 neg camber, 1/8 toe in, 3.5 positive caster. Wonder if I should try and get a little more caster?


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67stang

Active Member
So I spoke to soon. I double checked my alignment and my toe was off. Uhg.. so I just fixed my toe in. Let’s see how it drives tomorrow!! Hopefully it’s better.


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67stang

Active Member
Lessons learned TRIPLE CHECK YOUR alignment. That’s why my car was to sensitive/squirrely!! But now it’s nice and stable!!!




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kb3

Well-Known Member
Glad to hear it all worked out. Thanks for posting all this info, I really need to add PS to my 67 convertible. This looks like a cost effective way to go!
 

67stang

Active Member
So just a few additional comments.

I used epowersteering which is about 1000$ cheaper then EPAs https://epasperformance.com/collections/all-products

http://www.epowersteering.com/purchase/product/auto-eps-controller-saturn-vue-chevy-equinox-units/

However like I mentioned it’s a lot of work. Making sure everything is clocked just right and lengths of the steering rods need to be right.

The EPAs is different when Driving. When you make a tight turn, normally, when you straighten out the wheel, it will spin back to near straight, but not with EPAs. You have to turn it back. No big deal but it is different.

If I was to do it over again I would. This thing is really amazing.

Now for the rack: I purchased the Manual Unisteer Rack. It’s a good solid rack. You will have to grind certain areas of the rack and cross member areas to make it fit. But it is very solid and it works. It’s truly a 4 complete revolution rack from stop to stop. Better then what I had but I do wish now it was less revolutions. But it was 1k compared to 1600 I think for TCP. Now the rack is solid zero play and works as advertised. I have seen older reviews about how they are junky. To me it is not. Again very solid and works as advertised!

Also when I first started working on my suspension over a year ago someone told me to get an alignment tool, so you can do your own alignment. It’s not that hard and I’m glad I listened. In the past year and a half, replacing all these suspension and steering parts, I think I have done over 10 alignments on my stang. Lol.







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