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Since the rack will pretty much cover up the camber eccentric bolts I installed the loc-outs, they worked out great!! However the right side I used the original bolt and eccentric on the aft side and loc-out on the forward side, because the thickness of the loc-out and bolt head hits the rack.
Also it is true, when you cut out the one piece steering shaft make sure you cut it as close as you can (cabin side) near the firewall. Also I had to loosen up the exhaust to remove the gear box
Also it it tough by yourself to go back and forth and trim as necessary to fit the rack. So I used a Floor jack and it worked great.
I do have an issues with the tie rods. They came with 2 sets but both are to small. Hopefully Unisteer has a solution, if not I think mustangsteve has shims that might work.
Well the mini starter is in. OMG!! Wow this thing is awesome!! Not sure what brand it is but a local shop in town makes his own starters and had this laying around and advised it would work perfect. And he was right. Kind of glad I had to replace the starter. The clearance is perfect as well.
I went with a mini starter on the big block also.
Also sharing a few pics of the EPAS motor for ya. I made a bracket that attaches to the brake pedal support to keep things from trying to rotate. I'ts hard to see but it works great. Sorry for the messy wiring, this was during install so I have cleaned itup a bit. Also it was an automatic when I installed it, now its a 5 speed.
Wow that was a lot of work, especially since I did not but the actual EPAs kit. But I did save about 800$. But really it was a lot of work. Going back and forth. Installing them removing them installing them removing. Ran into a lot of little problems, like where do I put my emergency brake handle, where do I put the ECU, wrong tie rods were sent, try and find a serpentine belt that fits, Is the shaft to long too short. Mounting the control column to the electric motor( that was fun).
But OMG ITS FREAKIN AWESOME!!!!!! I barley even have it turned on and it works like a champ. I seriously dial it up not even a 1/4 turn and that’s all I need. That rack is freakin awesome too. ZERO PLAY!! And the turn radius is the same if not maybe better.
I do have to get use to how sensitive it is, even when it’s barely turned on. As there is zero play any movement obviously turns the car.
I have not been on the highway yet but will let you guys know how that turns out.
Still have to clean things up a tad but here is a pic.
However like I mentioned it’s a lot of work. Making sure everything is clocked just right and lengths of the steering rods need to be right.
The EPAs is different when Driving. When you make a tight turn, normally, when you straighten out the wheel, it will spin back to near straight, but not with EPAs. You have to turn it back. No big deal but it is different.
If I was to do it over again I would. This thing is really amazing.
Now for the rack: I purchased the Manual Unisteer Rack. It’s a good solid rack. You will have to grind certain areas of the rack and cross member areas to make it fit. But it is very solid and it works. It’s truly a 4 complete revolution rack from stop to stop. Better then what I had but I do wish now it was less revolutions. But it was 1k compared to 1600 I think for TCP. Now the rack is solid zero play and works as advertised. I have seen older reviews about how they are junky. To me it is not. Again very solid and works as advertised!
Also when I first started working on my suspension over a year ago someone told me to get an alignment tool, so you can do your own alignment. It’s not that hard and I’m glad I listened. In the past year and a half, replacing all these suspension and steering parts, I think I have done over 10 alignments on my stang. Lol.