347 build - help me spend $$

[kb3]

Also know as "Let's spend Ken's money"

From a previous thread, I have shifted from building a stroked 351 to a stroked 302 for my Early Bronco. My initial plan was to build it with the Ford fuel injection system, but that brings with it some issues due to crank balancers, etc. Still may be the path, but need to hear what others think. The motor has been pulled from the donor Explorer and headed to the machine shop next week to hot tank and inspect. This will be more built for torque than Hp. I want a nice daily driver that still has a bit of get up and go.

I have several questions I need to address.

1. If not the Ford fuel injection system, what system is the best to go with now?
a) Fitech? Have they gotten any better?
b) Edelbrock Pro Flo 4? Currently out of stock, but I have time just need to get the plan in place
c) Other options?

2. suggestions for where to look for 347 stroker kit, heads and cam?
a) previous thread shows Scat to be the better choice
b) best pump gas compression ratio?
c) best place to source the kit, based on past experience?

 

[B67FSTB]

1) Pro Flo 4 system. I have read good things about this system.

You need to know that the bottom of the cilinder walls have to be altered when building a stroker347. Something with the balancer hitting the cilinder walls.

Rest... I don't know.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk

 

[msell66]

Early Bronco as a daily driver, I do miss that!

Pics please.


Mark

 

[Horseplay]

I'd lose the Ford system. The Snyper stuff is pretty popular as well as FiTech. I'll just say so as not to jinx myself that if I had any issues you would have ready about it here. Been running for years now very well. For your build I'd stick to a basic carb style injector body set-up. Really all you need. The port injection systems are nice and you can squeeze a bit more out of them but you're not racing the Bronco, are ya? The basic style let's you use any 4 BBL carb manifold you want ( I run a dual plane but lots of guys use singles as well).
As far as the engine itself goes my first question is are you building it or having it built? If having it built, select the builder and let them put it all together as far as parts goes. Screw the "kits". You can usually do just as well on price picking up stuff individually allowing selection of components as best suited instead of a "one size fits all" approach. That is usually where cheap stuff gets slipped in, i.e. bearings or rings or rods or pistons.
The math on mine worked out to be just under 10.4:1 I have always run 93 but good 91 could probably be alright with a good EFI system handling timing as well as fuel.
The stock block is fine for what you are doing. the only real modification it will need aside from boring/honing will be very minor notching of the lower cylinder for rod clearance. And I mean minor. It's hardly noticeable if you are not aware of it and looking for it. Pretty sure I used a Scat crank but I'd have to dig out the paperwork to verify. Don't go cheap and make sure to use a fully forged rotating assembly. It really doesn't cost much more for the peace of mind.

If I were to do it all again I would have used an aftermarket block so I could get more cubes and drop the compression ratio and add some form of forced induction. Not to go quicker. My car is plenty quick as is. I just miss the pull of a supercharger when the boost really hits. You might think to start out with it NA with something in the neighborhood of maybe 9:1. Still stout on its on but some room to put some form of power adder kick later. If I went that route I'd use a piston to get that 9:1 with a small chamber head so I could swap into a bigger head (drop the CR) and add a blower down the road.

 

[kb3]

Early Bronco as a daily driver, I do miss that!

Pics please.


Mark

Pics to come, but it is in 1,000 pieces and just now going back together. I pulled it apart when my son was 3, he is now 26. Yep, sometimes projects get sidetracked.

 

[kb3]

Terry,

As always I appreciate your input. I have been looking at the Sniper and Fitech systems, as well as the Pro Flo 4. By the time I add the trans controller to the mix I am well north of $2,000. Interesting enough I can have the Explorer computer retuned for about $200 and it will be good to go, trans controller and all. Not saying I am picking one path or another just yet, but certainly something to consider. The other issue with the throttle body units is height under the hood. If you are not familiar, Early Broncos are tight and could not fit normal air cleaners on top of the carbs. Believe it or not (now I sound like Midlife) the Explorer stuff actually fits under the stock hood.

As for the engine kit, I get what you are saying there, but lots of leg work to get the pieces that fit together. While I plan to build the motor, a conversation with the local shop may change my mind. I am looking for reliability and torque, this is not the go fast vehicle. Never going to have a power adder, no room in the already tight engine bay and no need to start breaking driveline components.

On top of all this I need to choose a cam and heads to compliment the lower end.

 

[Horseplay]

Spend the dollars wisely. If the Ford stuff works for you and saves money for elsewhere nothing wrong with that path. Just bear in mind its tune is a one and done deal unless you go back for another tweak. The new self-learning and fully programmable stuff does it all day and you can take it further manually if you want to at any time. Couple one with a low-profile dual plane intake and I bet you can find the hood clearance you need. Paired with a set of adjustable engine mounts you can make room.

Unless you simply like to and want to put the bottom-end together yourself, I suggest letting the machine shop/builder of choice do it. It's usually only a few hundred bucks more after the machine work and its done by hands that have likely assembled hundreds if not thousands of engines. Plus they have all the tools to do it right. It's not hard to do just takes the right tools and patience. All the hard stuff gets done in the machining stage to get tolerances right, etc. You get home do the initial assembly to verify tolerances and find something off you're right back to the machinist again. Time wasted. Pain in the butt. Let them do the rotating bit and you can slap in the cam and bolt on the heads. The most challenging part of all, I think, is setting up the valvetrain properly. Shimming springs to set spring pressures. Measuring pushrod lengths to get rocker tip location perfect, etc. Again, not terribly difficult just requires the right tools, knowledge and patience. Rewarding when done right.

As far as cam selection goes for your purpose I'd suggest a Comp grind made specifically for EFI engines. They have a few good ones that would serve your purpose well. Just make sure your drivetrain selections are made so you know all your gears ratios and tire sizes going in so you can pick the right grind. Same for the convertor. Get those two right and you'll have a very satisfying ride.

 

[kb3]

One and done is what I am looking for. Interesting enough the system we put in the fastback has not had a hiccup for the past 10 years. It can sit for weeks/months and starts right up and runs with no stumbles or misses. Sure, you could play with a tunable version and try to get more out of it, but hell I can't keep the tires on the ground as it is.

For the Bronco I just want dependable, not over the top performance, so the Ford system may be the way to go, but I have time to figure that out. The motor, trans, transfer case come first.

And as a point of info, you can't really lower the motor in the frame as it gets in the way of the front drive shaft....not something your little truck will have to worry about.

I am leaning towards letting the shop build the lower end, but that will be decided after my visit next week when I drop off the block.

As always, appreciate the conversation!!