• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

351 Windsor list best to worst

FordDude

Well-Known Dude
Staff member
Moderator
The 351 was produced from 1969 to 1991. I have been trying to research them. I am basically looking for a block to build. Aluminum heads would be used and a stroke kit.
But the point is what to look for. Roller block (are they different?) what years are better.
Stroke to 408 or boost a 351. I would like to get 450-500 HP range with lots of low end torque. Upgrade to a 5 speed manual from the toploader.
This is for my 67 coupe. The convertible will be restored stock. Less than a year retirement awaits me. I am trying to plan ahead, and I know these parts do not grow on trees. I need to know what to look for. Los Angles area should have plenty to offer. I am patient, I can look at Craigslist every day. Just have to find a place to store a chunk of iron. I already have 2 in my shed. Both 289, one is a complete engine and the other is a block, crank and pistons. (K)

fd
 
450-500 HP out of a 351 block is not tough to do. You don't even need to stroke it to get there. Stroking, however, will be the better path to a fun and torquey street engine. I'd suggest keeping the stroke increase moderate. This gives better life expectancy and less fear when reving it up. Personally, I'd do a 393 and beat the hell out of it all day. Would easily meet your power goals (it would make more) and be stupidly reliable.

You can use just about any block you find for the build. 351 blocks can handle your power desires out of the box. If not originally a roller cam block its not a big deal at all to set it up for a roller cam. Just need to install a dog-bone style lifter guide in the valley. Or hell, you can simply use connected lifters to prevent rotation and have at it.
 
I raced both the 289/302 and 351W back before all the cool aftermarket stuff was around and my .02 relates mostly to OEM stuff so YMMV.
- I found the C9 blocks to be the most robust
- All of them had oiling challenges for high rpm use IME. I designed custom oiling system modifications to compensate for the design and high bearing speeds of the large main and rod journals.
- If using the OEM crank and rods I rarely came down on the engine if it could be avoided. In road racing of course that's not possible but those applications tend to use less gear so the stresses aren't as great. I ran 5.14's or 5.43's.
- The early heads, if using OEM, IME work better and have more room for modification, based on the ones I cut apart to determine such factors. Ignore if using aluminum heads, that's probably a better choice these days.
- As a reflection of the times, I always ran a solid flat tappet camshaft, mostly Holman & Moody or FMS stuff. Nothing really radical. I did run a lot of compression though, and light forged pistons. Car ran on C16 or equivalent most of the time. It wouldn't run on pump gas, at all.

If building something N/A in the 500hp range, you can expect good longevity IME. That was a typical target for the engines I ran in Super Street and it was no problem getting 2-3 seasons out of one before refreshing it. However, I never ran a manual trans, always C4's and either a loose 10" or tight 8" converter. Manual trans applications are a different discipline.
I typically shifted the car at 6500 and went through the lights at 7300-7600 depending on the track and air density and what class the car was running. It didn't mind the rpm, just keep it oiled and it'll be fine.

For a street car, TBH I'd likely keep the engine mild and supercharge it for the required power level. IMO it's more driveable that way and the technology for engine management systems these days is top notch. Supercharged, fuel injected and computer managed is IMO the way to go, much as I like old school. Good luck with the project!
 
Last edited:
Whichever block you find will likely be good. There has however been an issue with the some of the 1994 up roller blocks getting cracks in them. I've had about six through my garage and haven't gotten a cracked one but apparently it's a thing. More info here: https://www.corral.net/threads/must-read-psa-for-windsor-roller-block-guys.1352369/

As for the older blocks the 1969-70 blocks have a shorter deck height which means you have to choose your rebuild parts more carefully, the pistons mostly. Not a big deal but there are more piston options out there for the taller and more common engines.
Up to 1974 the 351W blocks weighed about 10 pounds more than the newer ones. If you flip two back ones over on their backs you can even see where the newer one is missing some bulk. Some people believe this makes the early blocks stronger but there is zero evidence of that. My belief is that the block designers were just trimming away useless fat. People who are doing the kind of racing that destroys engines seem able to tear up either version equally.
Starting about 1985 all the 351W's were made as "truck blocks" which means they had the better spot-faced rods. In earlier engines you had to sort a truck from a car block to get those. Not a big deal at all though, just a nicety.
 
Back
Top