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4-Wheel Disc Brakes

H

hivewax

Member
since i'm going 9" rear, i will be replacing my stock GT front disc brakes and rear drums to all disc brakes. i bought the 1-1/8" bore dual master cylinder, brake residual valve 2psi (required?), WILWOOD adj proportioning valve, front + rear s/s braided brake lines, big spindles w/bearings, and hubs.

so...
1. what tools/items would you recommend for a garage fix? Mighty Vac kit? bearing grease type?
2. and, should i get speed bleeders?? i heard some say they leak.
3. should i replace the hard brake lines?

TIA
 
"hivewax" said:
what brand of Speed Bleeder do you have? Russell?
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I think so; but to be honest, it's been so long I'm not sure.
 
I haven't been pleased with the mighty vac with regular bleeders cuz it will tend to pull in air around the threads of your bleed screw or the hose you're using.
I've not used speed bleeders but they sound like a good idea.
The only way I've really successfully bled the brakes was with two people.
Don't ask my wife to work the pedal for you though....I had a flooded carb and no brake fluid coming out till I found out about the cockpit error :doh
 
"joesgt281" said:
I haven't been pleased with the mighty vac with regular bleeders cuz it will tend to pull in air around the threads of your bleed screw or the hose you're using.
I've not used speed bleeders but they sound like a good idea.
The only way I've really successfully bled the brakes was with two people.
Don't ask my wife to work the pedal for you though....I had a flooded carb and no brake fluid coming out till I found out about the cockpit error :doh
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Sounds just like my wife :rofl

The speed bleeders are the cats meow, just make sure you apply the thread sealer that comes with them. I really like them, I can bleed the brakes in about 5 minutes by myself and I do that everytime I go to the track (once or twice a month).
 
what about removing the existing brake fluid? do i just loosen the bleed valves one by one and let it pour into a catch can or is there a procedure?
 
3. should i replace the hard brake lines?
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If you're still running what appear to be the original 40+ years old hard brake lines, IMO, your car is an accident waiting to happen.

Definitely replace them.
 
I believe the brake lines are not original. I'll inspect them for corrosion. I've driven this car almost as a daily driver, so the lines should be fine.
 
Do you have the rubber lines going from the hard lines to the calipers? If so, swap out to the SS flex lines, it'll give you peace of mind and a harder pedal.
 
"hivewax" said:
no power. 1-1/8" bore required for big brakes from Cobra Auto. i'll confirm with them if there's an issue.
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The Lincoln calipers? Silverbluebp switched to our 1" bore alum. m/c and loved it!
 
my right leg is smaller than the left, so it needs the exercise. :skull

no really, tech said it would be fine for a young stud like myself. :dance
 
Loren,

I used the 1" bore MC, the first one was from CA and it lasted 4 years. I replaced it with the one from Shaun..it's much better! The 1 1/8" bore is for track use only (direct from CA).
 
please explain to me why the 1-1/8" cannot to used on the street?

EDIT: and, why did your first 1" bore last only 4 years?
 
"hivewax" said:
please explain to me why the 1-1/8" cannot to used on the street?

EDIT: and, why did your first 1" bore last only 4 years?
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I only went on what the guys at CA said about the MC size. Street use with some track time; use 1" bore. Full track use 1 1/8". The larger piston will just require more pedal effort.

The MC started to fail after just 3 years, wouldn't hold the pressure. I never did tear it apart, maybe it's bad seals.

Keep in mind I'm beating the snot out of all the parts on track.
 
Now that's probably true, back a year I was still driving it on the street and not as hard on the track :toot

I will say the new MC from Shaun has been great!
 
CA tech said the old fashion way is better than speed bleeders. maybe vintage racing rules don't allow speed bleeders... :conf
 
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