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68 with 351c going to t5 help

6

68angrypony

Member
Ok so I am going a bit crazy with trying to figure this out. I have a 68 mustang that I'm putting a 351c into. I'm going to switch from a t-10 to a T5. So I picked up a trans and bell from a 2000 v6 mustang. I know it may not be the strongest and could blow up and I'm ok with that as I can always rebuild it or replace with a built unit down the road. I got the set up for 80 bucks so I can't really go wrong. Not being able to figure out what flywheel and clutch set up and what I would need to do to use a mechanical clutch, I went out yesterday and picked up a fox body bell housing for a 5.0. I heard it would be easier to work with as it is more common and their is more knowledge online. So I have a buddy who will put in the shorter input shaft so I know that won't be a big issue. I still need to figure out which flywheel (I know i need a 28oz), and clutch set up to use as well as what I need to do to the fork in order to use a mechanical clutch. I also know my 68 mechanical linkage won't work so I know I need a 69 or newer set up. Does anyone have experience/knowledge in all of this and can help me sort this mess out?

Thank you,
 
I think it's an 11 inch clutch. 28oz balance IIRC. Look into an early 80's model F150 with a 302. It should put you on the right flywheel and clutch. All this is from memory when I was going to use a v6 bell so double check.

Oh and to use the fox bell you would need to change the input shaft of the trans as they are slightly longer than a fox v8 t5.

Bill
 
why fool with all the mechanical linkage setup when a hydraulic is so simple? probably be cheaper since you need to purchase the parts for the mechanical anyway. i would think the aftermarket 5.0 flywheels with a 28oz balance & 10.5" clutch would work just fine if you are using the 5.0 bell... i make the crossmember & hydraulic clutch brackets if you decide to go that direction. it seems like chinese math figuring it all out in the beginning, but not really difficult to do a standard type install.
 
Yes it sounds like you are wanting to do what I did to the turd.

I cant chat right now but will do so by sometime tomorrow. I need to go thru some of my build notes. And I'm also busy working on my old Chebbie truck tomorrow as well as smoking some Salmon.


I will say that I never regretted going mechanical clutch. It was a fun part of the project.
 
Here's some details I found. MDL = Modern Driveline.


Flywheel: MDL-LBS157-28….157 28oz.imbalance
Clutch: MDL-KS7-101 Clutchset Kevlar/Organic steel back
T5 Trans cross mem.: Ron Morris
block spacer: alum. From ebay

I'm sure you are aware that T5 bell housing needs to be converted to adapt a mechanical clutch arm. I'll snoop around to show photo's on when I did mine.

Do you have an ID tag on the T5? If so, what is it?

I am running stock Cleveland exhaust manifolds which have been ported.
 
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Thanks for the info Craig. I will see if I can find a tag on the trans. It's from a 2000 v6 mustang. I have the bell housing with it and also a fox body v8 bell housing as well to work with. The factory headers I have come out right where the mechanical linkage are. Think the previous car the motor was originally from was an auto maybe? but I am going to use hooker mid length I believe headers so those should clear the linkage. Which mechanical linkage set up did you use? I know you said the factory set up won't work.

Thank you again for the info. When are you coming to put my car together? lol
 
Regarding mechanical linkage, are you referring to clutch? If so, I had issues with the stock Z bar clearing the Cleveland's manifold so I got I believe was a 70 mach 1 Zbar. Even then I had to tweak it. The clutch rod (pedal to Zbar) I made out of steel rod bent to fit and with adjustable fittings on each end with sealed bearings.

The other issue you will need to address is installing the mechanical clutch bar to the T5 bell housing. I will try to find a couple pics and post.

Aha! Here's a link to my original thread (Nov, 2009) which should give you some ideas on what needs to be done to a T5 bell housing.

http://www.stangfix.com/index.php?t...g-for-mechanical-clutch-setup-pics-ahoy.3865/
 
Another headsup: Shifter
Via Modern Driveline, I am using their Slik Shifter MD-82-321-204-03, which puts the shifter handle 1" back. Keep in mind that odds are you might need to trim the shifter hole in the tunnel. I knocked off about 1/4" from the front edge and maybe just a tad on the right edge.
 
Thanks again craig. Do you have any pictures of the custom rod between the z bar and the pedal? Was it hard or is a job a rookie with basic tools can accomplish?
 
Not that particular rod but it is very simple to make as I have done with custom AOD shifter rods as seen here using a 3/8" rod and two heim joints. Shape the rod to something that might work. Keep it extra long. Thread both ends. Attach the heim joints and adjust. You might end up having to cut the rod down a little more and maybe even add another inch of threads. Disregard the bracket that is connected to the heim joint at the bottom of the pic.

AODShifterRodA.jpg
 
I will need to get a threader and some heim joints then lol I also need to find the 70 z bar set up. Can't wait for everything to come together.
 
Let me confirm the Z bar details before you order. But wait a minute, what exhaust are you using? I needed a different Z bar because I am using a stock exhaust manifold system. Major interference issue. Maybe you won't have this. If I was you I would do what I did and that is to wait for the Z bar until you install the motor and exhaust, then see if you have an issue.
 
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