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69 Fastback deck lid comparison.

Sluggo

Active Member
Dynacorn[nb]While finishing up the Boss and getting ready to paint it, I noticed that the lower rear edge of the deck lid was too long. It hung at least a 1/4 inch lower than it should have. This would not be too big of an issue on anything other than a Boss. Because of the way the blackout is carried onto the 1/4 extensions, this extra length would be very evident.

The second concern with the part is that center of the rear edge was drawn up tighter so when you looked at it from far off you could see a upward bow in it. Again, not a huge deal except when you factor in the huge contrast between Calypso Coral and SG Black.

The third concern was the upper rear edge, did not match the curvature of the quarter extensions. To me, this a critical line. I was not about to shave the 1/4 extensions to match the rounded over edge, and I was not going to mud the whole top edge to make it match the extensions. Overall, it was a pretty crappy part. Not what I'd expect from Dynacorn. I've used their doors before and been hapy with the fit. [/nb] slug score 3/10 (actually kinda generous)

Classic Reproductions[nb]Got this part as a replacement for the Dynacorn. The only issue with it was that it has a slight bow where the deck meets the rear window filler. Easy fix. All other contours matched as one would expect a new part to. Part fits and requires no filler to make it work.[/nb] slug score 10/10
 
So I guess you're saying, protect your original deck lid, eh? Do they have a Ford Tooling one? If so, have you looked into it? The Ford tooling hood I have used on my daughter's '69. Bought it from NPD and it was an EXCELLENT part. Perfect fit, and I couldn't tell it from an original.

I, fortunately, haven't had to deal with a replacement deck lid. Thanks for the update!
 
I'm not aware of a Ford tooling deck lid. [nb]That does not mean there is not one available.[/nb]

I did not bother to see how "correct" the second lid was. I was just happy it fit like it should. It fit as well as my original fits my car.
The outer skin stamping on the Classic part seemed much more crisp at the crown and arced more on the way down to the bottom.

Just a heads up. Since were talking about stampings, each run could be different. The next guy could have a quite different experience.
 
i got my lid from NPD, so i'm not sure what the source was.

it looked nice initially, but i had three major complaints.

1. the back of the lid where the mustang letters go should have had a slight bow to match the bow in the tail light panel. this one was flat. it looked retarded. i had to cut the under structure, pull the back out and weld it back up.

2. the contour at the tip (line just above the mustang letters) didn't match the contour of the quarter extensions. i had to hammer the edges up, weld in 1/8" rod so the edge looked normal and then add some filler along the top curve to smooth out the contour.

3. it was a limp noodle. no spots welds attaching the lid at all. everytime i would shut the lid, it would lose its shape. i ended up plug welding the lid every ~3". maybe this was a blessing because it did allow me do get the proper shape i needed.

other issues that i can't necessarily blame on the repo part for:

1. i added filler metal to the edges of about 75" of the lid.

2. had to jump up and down on the lid to get the contour to match the contour of the filler panel behind the rear window. (the 2nd original i purchased had the same issue though).

3. had to drill the holes for the mustang letters

4. had to patch the spoiler holes since it was made to fit a 70.

5. the drain holes didn't look like my original. i had to make some small cuts and bend.

with all that said, i had spent a lot of money on what appeared to be a very nice original that turned into swiss cheese after blasting. after 20 hours of metal work with the repop part, i had a solid lid.

IMG_4614.jpg


IMG_4616.jpg


IMG_5147.jpg
 
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Sounds a lot like the one I sent packin'. The top edge at the rear was :barf I could find nowhere where the skin was glued to the inner structure. I could push it down on the right and make the left side come up and vice versa.

The Classic part had the skin glued to the structure in about 20 places. Much less flimsy.

Neither had holes drilled for the letters. I'm trying to find a lid I can make a template from. I wish I would have thought of it before I stuck the letters on mine.
 
That would be cool Steve!

It looks like I'll be spraying that mo Friday or Saturday. Can't wait :pbj
 
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