-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
8.8 fox-body rear end
- Thread starter robrod1
- Start date
Essentially correct. I haven't done it, but I've done all the pre-planning.
You need to source some 5-lug axles and brakes from either a couple Rangers or Aerostars, have a fab shop hack off the spring perches and 4-link mounts, and have them weld on leaf spring perches at the proper angle. Not a huge job, and fox body 8.8's are abundant.
I'd recommend building the rear before you install it, though. Get it set up with the gears and diff you want, because unlike 8" and 9" rears which have a removable diff carrier, 8.8's require all gear work to be done inside the axle housing. You may also consider c-clip eliminators at the same time, depending on your intended use for the car. C-clip axles aren't the greatest for taking abuse.
You need to source some 5-lug axles and brakes from either a couple Rangers or Aerostars, have a fab shop hack off the spring perches and 4-link mounts, and have them weld on leaf spring perches at the proper angle. Not a huge job, and fox body 8.8's are abundant.
I'd recommend building the rear before you install it, though. Get it set up with the gears and diff you want, because unlike 8" and 9" rears which have a removable diff carrier, 8.8's require all gear work to be done inside the axle housing. You may also consider c-clip eliminators at the same time, depending on your intended use for the car. C-clip axles aren't the greatest for taking abuse.
the good thing is i have a 93 5.0 coupe that i built up and drove for about five years. then some bonehead t-boned me and totaled my coupe. i already have an 8.8, 3.73s, posi and a five lug conversion done to it already. so i just need to clean up the 8.8 and weld spring perches, cut my fox driveshaft to legnth and be done with it right. i am gonna use the t-5 and motor out of the car as well.
You do not need to cut off the upper 4 link mounts on the housing. They are low enough to clear the floor pan. Also, if you don't mind getting a little dirty you can remove the control arm / quad shock brackets pretty easily with 4-1/2" grinder using 0.040" thick metal cutting disk and sawzall. Use the sawzall first to cut the brackets off the axle tubes... not to close, about an inch from the welds. This will give enough room to get the high speed grinder in the tight areas to slice along the welds close to the bracket side. Don't slice deep (into the axle tubes), just enough to weaken the joint then use a hammer to work it loose it shouldn't take much effort at this point. The mild steel brackets bend quite easily. If it's stubborn, just cut more of the bracket down and use a 40 grit flap disk on the grinder to grind it down and dress the tubes. I should take less than 90 minutes to remove the brakcets.
Another option on the rear axles is to get 94-04 Mustang 5 lug axles which are 3/4" longer than the 79-93 axles and you can then also convert to rear disk brakes. You would also need to convert over to late model wheels. I've got 17 x 8 bullit wheels with the stock 5.72" backspacing and it fits perfectly in my '68 using the 94-04 axles in an '89 8.8.
Another option on the rear axles is to get 94-04 Mustang 5 lug axles which are 3/4" longer than the 79-93 axles and you can then also convert to rear disk brakes. You would also need to convert over to late model wheels. I've got 17 x 8 bullit wheels with the stock 5.72" backspacing and it fits perfectly in my '68 using the 94-04 axles in an '89 8.8.
I was under the impression that some shops wouldn't/couldn't lengthen a driveshaft? On second thought, you can get a completely new, custom steel d/s for ~$180, and I'd assume that you'd have to re-tube a driveshaft in order to lengthen it, and that usually runs $100+, so buying a completely new unit might be cheaper/smarter."stangg" said:
1. if i run my 15x10 prostars with 275 50s out back can i still run disc brakes from the 94 and newer 8.8s
2. my 5lug converision axels now are stock legnth fox body axels would i have any rubbing issues or the 3/4 difference be better off the newer 8.8 axels.
my prostars now are either 5.5 or 6.5 back spacing i need to double check... thanks guys
2. my 5lug converision axels now are stock legnth fox body axels would i have any rubbing issues or the 3/4 difference be better off the newer 8.8 axels.
my prostars now are either 5.5 or 6.5 back spacing i need to double check... thanks guys
I'm almost certain that the rear rotors are 10.4" diameter so they should work within a 15" wheel. As far as the offest with shorter axles there is a company that makes an offset mounting bracket to bring the caliper in 3/4". The srock Ford brackets mount to the outside of the flange where the drum brake backing plate mounts on your fox rear end. Some guys cut the bracket and mount it on the inboard side of that flange using a few washers to gain the 3/4" offset.
Regarding the driveshaft, my understanding with lengthening one is that the shops remove both yokes and re-install on a new tube.
On the 15x10 wheels, I don't think your going to get them under the stock wheel wells. depending on how everything works out you might need to mini tub it, maybe even flare it a little or at least roll the wheel well lips.
Regarding the driveshaft, my understanding with lengthening one is that the shops remove both yokes and re-install on a new tube.
On the 15x10 wheels, I don't think your going to get them under the stock wheel wells. depending on how everything works out you might need to mini tub it, maybe even flare it a little or at least roll the wheel well lips.
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
I'm running a 9.5" wheel in my 67 with leaf springs. My tire cross section is 10" or so and they fit with out a mini tub. I think you would need to check the tire width at it's widest point, maybe just rolling the lip would work but it will be close!"Starfury" said: