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adjusting 1967 trunk torsion bars?

6

67resto-coupe

Member
can't seem to get my decklid to stay up and don't have the special tool to adjust the pressure in the torsion bars.
any home-grown tips? or am i relegated to the prop rod or $60 gas shock adaptation? thanks.
 
Sounds like you have the rods in the wrong holes, did you take pics before tear down? If someone doesn't have them available I can snap some pics in a couple hours and post.
Jon
 
actually, this end of the car has never been disassembled, so it's been the same since i picked up the car in '99. i think the bars are just week. but even if i could move the bars, i can't even get them to budge.

however, i did see some prior posts on this site and vmf about using 20" gas struts from a parts store and mounting them to the floor or seat divider. given that stang-aholics is charging upwards of $90 for them, i can probably do them for almost half that.

if there's an easier way to adjust the strut rods, i'd love it. i'll check the rod alignment when i get home and advise of the positions.
 
i think the bars are just week. but even if i could move the bars, i can't even get them to budge.
Click to expand...

It's VERY doubtful that the torsion rods have lost their ability to open/close the deck lid. As stated, it's very likely (and easy to do) that they're installed backwards/wrong.

Yes, the rods are a bear to install/remove, but it can be done as I've done it numerous times without any special tools..... I believe I use the spanner tool/wrench for tightening discs onto my grinder.... the "tits" on the wrench can be positioned to apply leverage on the end of the rod in order to seperate the rod from the hinge. Be CAREFUL... as that rod WILL go flying if you lose control of it in the tensed position.
 
We just got done working on a conv. with a fiberglass deck lid, it had to much pressure on it when you opened it. We took the rods out and heated them to take the tension off of them and it worked fine. In your case you need to go the other way if they are installed proper. Rich.
 
yeah...so i tried using a long flathead screwdriver to pry and move the torsion rod to another slot. then.....PAAAANNNGGG!!! bar goes flying and now i can't get it back in. any ideas? i set the side with the 3 slots, but then i have to try to manually twist the rod to get it back into position. i didn't think i was that weak, but man, i just can't get the leverage to twist it back into position. any tips? i may just say 'screw it' and buy the $60 gas-strut kit from aeroform and call it a day. the only + to the new kit is that i won't have torsion rods to vibrate and clang together, as they do now with the new exhaust.
 
Re: adjusting 1967 trunk torsion bars? - problem solved....modified.

well, i struggled with the torsion bar twisting to realize that it would take me and another strong arm to wrestle the bar back into place. then reviewing the set up by aeroform, i figured i could make my own gas strut setup. well, some $20 worth of pic'n'pull struts off a dead nissan pathfinder and about $15 worth of parts from true value, i think i got this right. here are some pics and a video of the new decklid setup. if i were to re-do this, i'd look for shorter gas struts. these are about 23" and i think i'd seen a prior post recommending 20"...that's probably a bit better. who knows, i'll see how this holds up and maybe go back for 20"s if i feel like it.
 
Pics didn't show up for me, I had to download them but looks like a neat idea. I wonder if with 20" you could forgo the floor mount and just put some large washers top/bottom and mount it directly through the floor in the corner there?
Congrats on the workaround and JY score.
Jon
 
To not use the lower bracket, you would have to watch for the angle of the rod when the lid is closed. The ball socket on the end has limited range when mounted with the bolt down.
 
Didn't think through it that far, you're right Pete. I guess it would go from full range of motion to ~45* at the ball/socket, guess you'd have to test if it moves at more of an angle than that with open/close which would be easy with the back seat out.
Jon
 
Without looking to much, I wonder if the struts could be moved further around the hinge to the front and then the other end attached to the top of seat frame opening or the plate of the rear deck. I would like to see the struts more out of sight and out of the way for things that could get into those areas. Being my car gets driven a lot, the trunk also gets used.
 
yeah, location is a bit of a trick here. these are only pics of the pass side, but i have the same setup on the drivers side, so there are 2 struts. i think you have all posted some good ideas, too. now about the seat frame, learn from my experience.....the rear seat frame is pretty thin and does not offer a lot of structural rigidity. i initially had fastened the bracket to the seat frame, but these struts are soooo stiff that when i initially tried to close the trunk with only the pass strut installed, the pressure wouldn't collapse and i broke a lower weld where the bottom of the seat frame is welded to the floor. not a huge problem, but one that made me rethink the location. at least with a floor mount, it's not going anywhere. i used self tap sheet metal screws. i had seen another post elsewhere that had the brackets bolted to the inner fender. i decided against it only bcz i'm going to run 275/40/17 back there and was worried about possible rubbing. as for space, i think it's almost an even trade-off. with torsion bars, you gave up some space up top. with these, i'm giving up a little space on the sides...oh well, if they become a problem, i'll look to get shorter supports and mount up under the package tray and move the other mount more rearward on the hinge.

by the way, what's a "JY score"? *** nevermind - "Junk Yard" score.... :0)
 
Those are just fiberglass topper parts that aeroform sells. I sell all kinds of truck accessories, and those would be easy parts to get including the shocks. Rich.
 
Due to my piss-poor on-line photo album organizational skills it took me forever to find this picture of an installed Aeroform kit on a '68 FB. Very similar to your installation, but notice the location of the upper ball socket mount. Mounting it on the side of the hinge allows the ball socket to rotate freely through the full range of motion.


100_09591.jpg
 
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yeah, you know, i was trying to get that same type of mounting location, but there are 2 tabs that stick out on the '67 hinges...don't know if you can see them in one of my pics. the 2 tabs are where the longer "L" side of the torsion bar sets in on the hinge.
i would have had to grind them off to get that type of mount and didn't want to get to hacking up too much. how long are those struts anyway from stud to stud?
 
I guess I would have found someone experienced enough with setting up the trunk springs per factory. But then I'm "old school"...... Even if it would've cost $150 in labor to get it done .... who cares!
 
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