• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Aftermarket Gauges

H

hawkdriver

Member
Ok im looking at adding a few afteramarket gauges ie. water/oil and volt, as i cannot accurately tell anything with the factory gauges. Im not so concerned with the gauge brand or size, The question is mounting. I have not heard good things about the pillar pods. Anyone have any pics of their mounting solutions? Can i take out the ash tray and place a 2in 3 pod bracket in there. This is for a 69 coupe.
 
I just finished this project (ok, one tweak left) on my '69 sportsoof, which uses the exact same interior, but with a shorter A-pillar.

I couldn't find any decent solution for a pod in a '69/'70 console. Looked to me like it would take something costum. Someone (is is Sluggo?) mounted theirs in place of the stereo, which looks extremely cool, but I can't live without my stereo (I'm a '60's/'70's child *LOL*)

My next attempt was to mount 2 of the gauges under the dash. between the steering wheel and console. I didn't like it AT ALL. I was afraid it would interfere with my ability to do a panic stop if I needed to, and they were awkward to read mounted that low.

So I finally opted for the pillar gauge setup. As much as I didn't think I would, I really like it. The reason I said before that I have one last tweak to do, is that I need to take the mounting hardware off of the pillar gauges. it's not really needed, because the fit is so tight into the holes, and the hardware hits the metal of the a-pillar and bows the trim piece slightly.

I went with all Autometer Ultra light gauges and love them.

When you do the speedometer, you have to decide whether to go mechanical or electrical. The electrical is far more accurate and doesn't require a gear change if you change the rear gears or tire sizes. You simply recalibrate the speedometer. The downside of the electrical is the cost. The gauge itself is slightly more expensive and you have to get a "hall effect" sensor to put in the transmission's speedometer cable hole. The Autometer switch is close to $90. Depending on the switch and transmission, this may require grinding on the transmission for clearance. I went electric and had to grind a big ol' rib off of my TKO-600. Even then, the switch was a bitch to put in, and Tom (Sac69) finally got it in for me (Yes, I was struggling with it).

Here's a picture during installation. I'll try to post one tonight with the dash pad back in. The dash pad installation was a little harder with the gauge pod ... just not as much clearance to work with because the lowest gauge is really too low.

170_22_04_10_6_54_12_0.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Without the console, mounting the extra gauges in a pod like that, at the center of the dash will probably look very good, and probably work well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top