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Alternative Cowl Repair Method?

C

Chris Kennedy

Member
Hi:

My '65 sees a lot of real-world use, and while it could use the infamous cowl repair (I use one of those clear plastic covers currently), it's simply not a problem that is worth worrying about at the moment. Still, I find myself reading posts on the subject to see if anyone has come up with a new method, and spotted something today, but it was really sketchy. I have wondered whether anyone had tried cutting the metal areas on either side of the grill which are directly above the areas where these usually leak. Then, you lift these "panels" off, repair the area underneath, and then bond/smooth them back in. It just strikes me a really good body person could do this so it wouldn't be apparent, given some of the amazing work I have seen people do on the bodies of totally trashed cars in the magazines. Has anyone done this? Just a thought (and, no, I am not going to be the guinea pig for this, at least not yet!). In a Mustang book I saw a similar method which involved taking off the fenders and going in from the side. Just some thoughts!

Regards,
/s/ Chris
 
The previous owner of my '66 coupe did just what you said. He cut out the top and did a repair on the cowl vents and then smothered it over with bondo. I would not recommend that route unless you know for sure the condition of the whole lower cowl. Mine was so far gone and rusty filled with holes, that repair job he did was really pointless.
 
Going in from the sides is ok for minor repairs. Hard to reach to far.

Going in from the top is foolish in my thoughts.....why ruin a good top panel as it will never be the same.

The amount of work on either above method will be close to the amount to do it right.....just depends on where your car is body wise.
 
If you are not going to completely remove the cowl, then going in under the fenders is probably the safest method. That way you won't have to worry about getting the surface perfectly smooth. The sides of the cowl are under the fenders and you can cut out access holes and pretty much reach most of that area, then weld the cut out back up.
 
Yeah, I read about this technique in a book. I am not planning to do any cowl work on my own car, but was just thinking about alternatives to the total replacement route. It seems to me that if the problem rust is right around the base of the two "stacks"/hats, then there should be ways you can get in there to patch things up without taking everything apart (there are all sorts of new potential problems you raise by taking everything apart). I am surprised that no one has come up with a fiber optic camera that can be inserted through the grill to look, or some sort of rubber like patch device that can be fed through the grill then grabbed at both ends and looped around the base, or something else. Another alternative would be to shoot some sort of thick, foam or liquid like substance in there that would collect around the base and harden fairly quickly without dripping through. Could you just look under the dash and patch from below?

Regards,
/s/ Chris
 
That foam stuff that hardens has been used by a fellow I think named Nick.... :gs

Not a real alternative.

I think I have issues with my 65 cowl and I shutter at having to pull out all the mechanical work I have done so I can get to a point in this project this is one of destruction. I will likely have to be done and for this reason my 65 is stopped in it's tracks right now. I need to completely strip the car and start over!

YUK!

I thought about putting a paint job on it and doing some interior work and selling it, but I don't think I could live with myself hiding such a huge repair!

So, since Mustangs are a labor of love and I do love my car, I will likely do some exploration this winter and see what needs to be done.

Mel
 
You know, this may be a problem that you can live with: On my car, I was at first only getting a fairly slight leak after a heavy rain, then what I did is use one of those plastic covers and waterproofed the area around the windshield wiper shafts where they poke through the cowl. This area can let water into the cowl. I have driven the car about 15,000 miles over the last year and a half, and it really has to rain hard for there to be a problem, and even then it's not a major drip onto the rubber floor mats. I have even figured out how to get the best out of the defroster in the rain. I know we all want to make our cars as good as possible, but some issues and problems really need to be put into perspective, or you lose your mind and don't have any fun with the car!

Cheers,
/s/ Chris :thu
 
"Chris Kennedy" said:
You know, this may be a problem that you can live with: On my car, I was at first only getting a fairly slight leak after a heavy rain, then what I did is use one of those plastic covers and waterproofed the area around the windshield wiper shafts where they poke through the cowl. This area can let water into the cowl. I have driven the car about 15,000 miles over the last year and a half, and it really has to rain hard for there to be a problem, and even then it's not a major drip onto the rubber floor mats. I have even figured out how to get the best out of the defroster in the rain. I know we all want to make our cars as good as possible, but some issues and problems really need to be put into perspective, or you lose your mind and don't have any fun with the car!

Cheers,
/s/ Chris :thu
Click to expand...

Chris you are absolutely correct. I drive my car daily right now and I have no intention of selling it ever, but you know things change. I have otehr projects I want to get to. I do want this car to continue to be a daily driver and I would like to have it look nice as well.

I do plan to take the front clip apart and start to strip the paint down this winter. I am sure I will uncover some dreadful issues. I can already see a butt load of bondo in a couple places. So, next year I may be driving the 67 while I work on the 65.

Mel
 
IF my 64 was rusted out i would pull the top and replace the bottom of the cowl. But as mine is not rusted out i think i will use some of that Eastwood frame coating with the long wand and seal it.
 
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