• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Alternator ID

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
Can anyone ID this brand/make of alternator? It came off my 306 crate motor, but the mounting bolt pattern does not match any Ford pattern that I can find.671B3B11-3D82-4F1D-B50B-482CDEF83D65.jpeg8EC95EF0-5FE9-4AE8-9AC8-811C2ED7FB41.jpeg70E548C6-EA19-46FE-A999-15A655CE3DFC.jpeg652C32F1-66F1-4F1B-AE5F-07CBFA0B7405.jpeg
 

guruatbol

Always on vacation!
My 67 has one. It's from a GM car. Mine is from an Impala.

Mel

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

guruatbol

Always on vacation!
Mine is a 72 Impala. I got it from AutoZone when the one the PO put on. I had to take it in because the first Ford one didn't work.

Mel

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

c6fastback

Active Member
Looks to be a custom made alternator as the GM battery post should be out the back of the alternator case and NOT the side. I can probably get you an application when I’m at work tomorrow.
 

guruatbol

Always on vacation!
Looks to be a custom made alternator as the GM battery post should be out the back of the alternator case and NOT the side. I can probably get you an application when I’m at work tomorrow.
I would be curious to know.

Mel

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
I’m asking because i just got a new 3g and was surprised when the holes didn’t line up.
Now the question - what do I need to do to mount my new 3g?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

c6fastback

Active Member
1993-1996 Chevy truck 105amp. O'Reilly # R111911A
 

Attachments

  • 1614041483665728082843.jpg
    1614041483665728082843.jpg
    223.7 KB · Views: 12
  • 16140415199081740829366.jpg
    16140415199081740829366.jpg
    225.9 KB · Views: 12

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
Yep, that looks about the same.
Trying to figure out mounting options now for the 3g with the mounting points that look like those ones.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Midlife

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
I gotta ask: why was this alternator on your engine in the first place, and why do you want to keep it instead of a Ford product?
 

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
I gotta ask: why was this alternator on your engine in the first place, and why do you want to keep it instead of a Ford product?

Great question. This was the alternator on there when I bought it. And I don’t. But the custom way the car was set up when I bought it (I didn’t really know the intricacies of the engine other than it looked good and ran well) precludes me from fitting the 3g in there. Trust me I want to.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
As a follow on question - I know there are some super creative folks out there who can modify and customize all kinds of things:

Has anyone ever heard of being able to replace the 3g mounting face (the way the mounting holes are aligned) with a face of what I currently have CS 130? That would be awesome!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
I've swapped the guts of one alternator for another plenty of times but can't say I've gone from a single wire to a 3G. Usually it's to replace the guts of a burnt out unit in a chrome case with stuff from a reman from the parts store to keep things pretty. It's simply a question of space and in some cases the ability to secure the innards.
I'd ask why not stick with the single wire GM unit? It's simple, cleans up the other crap no longer needed underhood and is readily available. You can get one to put out stupid amounts of energy to power damn near whatever you might put in the car too. It's not like Ford makes their own alternators so you're being brand loyal. Give me something I can find on the shelf at damn near EVERY parts store in the country, please.
 

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
I've swapped the guts of one alternator for another plenty of times but can't say I've gone from a single wire to a 3G. Usually it's to replace the guts of a burnt out unit in a chrome case with stuff from a reman from the parts store to keep things pretty. It's simply a question of space and in some cases the ability to secure the innards.
I'd ask why not stick with the single wire GM unit? It's simple, cleans up the other crap no longer needed underhood and is readily available. You can get one to put out stupid amounts of energy to power damn near whatever you might put in the car too. It's not like Ford makes their own alternators so you're being brand loyal. Give me something I can find on the shelf at damn near EVERY parts store in the country, please.

So option 1 (pie in the sky dream) - alternator shop is looking to see if they can replace/remove/relocate the mounting holes of the show polished (to match my engine) 200 amp, single wire, PA Performance alternator that I ordered like an idiot not realizing I had a GM alternator in my car.

Option 2 - alternator shop is remanning the one I just took out from a 95 to 140.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Horseplay

I Don't Care. Do you?
Why do you need such a high output alternator in the first place? What's so special about the way the old alternator mounted that you couldn't simply buy/find brackets to allow mounting of the "special" new alternator? It seems you are throwing more and more money after something that doesn't need to be so difficult.
 

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
Why do you need such a high output alternator in the first place? What's so special about the way the old alternator mounted that you couldn't simply buy/find brackets to allow mounting of the "special" new alternator? It seems you are throwing more and more money after something that doesn't need to be so difficult.

As for output - the one I am trying to replace isn’t powering my system well enough not charging my battery - highest output at operating RPM is 13.3 V (A/C, electric fan, e-fuel pump,1000w amp). And night, when I turn on the headlights, it drops to 12.5. At idle, the warning light comes on, lights dim, less than 11.5 amps.
As for mounting, the engine was so customized that the few other brackets I have tried don’t work and the amount of effort it would take to remove the current customized bracket and somehow refit all the accessories isn’t with it (and I don’t do metal work) and would cost a ton to have someone else do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
Here is what the engine setup looks like

Notice the aluminum bracket (alternator removed) extends across all accessories.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top