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Aluminum Radiator Failure

kb3

kb3

Well-Known Member
I put a beautiful 4 core Fluidyne aluminum radiator in the 65. It worked very well, no overheating issues even in the 100+ degree heat we see here during the summer. Just over a year old it started seeping a small amount every time I park the car. A radiator shop said that it is caused by electrolysis and three of the tubes are deteriorated. I would have thought they would last longer than one year. Has anyone else had this problem? I run 50% distilled water/antifreeze mix and the radiator is grounded to the chassis. I can't afford to replace radiators every year, and I really don't want to go back to a black painted, brass radiator.

all input appreciated.
 
4 core as in 4 rows? If so, replace it with a 2 - 1" row alum rad. You'll never look back.
 
Yes, 2 row, sorry. Any idea who makes a 2 row 1" that has the right inlet/outlet position for a 5.0 in a 65?
 
Could've been caused by a bad ground. Consider adding an extra ground strap to the radiator and a sacrificial anode. . .

Robert
 
Yes, upper right, lower left with no trans cooler

I have the battery grounded to the engine, the engine to the firewall and the radiator makes good contact with the core support. Should I ground the radiator directly to the battery?
 
I've never had issues such issues having to specifically ground the radiator. I use 80/20 (distilled water/coolant) with a bottle of water wetter.
 
"kb3" said:
Yes, 2 row, sorry. Any idea who makes a 2 row 1" that has the right inlet/outlet position for a 5.0 in a 65?
Click to expand...

Scott Drake sells an aluminum radiator for the 5.0 swap.
 
It just must be my run of bad luck with this car. The radiator looks great with the exception of the three tubes that are seeping. I will look at Northern and Scott Drake today, and when I do get a new one, I am going to ground the heck out of it.

Anybody using a sacrificial anode in their cooling system? I was searching for a radiator cap with one but have not yet located what I need.
 
"stangg" said:
"kb3" said:
Anybody using a sacrificial anode in their cooling system? I was searching for a radiator cap with one but have not yet located what I need.
Click to expand...

I'm not using one, but probably should for an extra bit of insurance.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c ... /overview/
Click to expand...

after destroying a $500 radiator in 12 months I think it is cheap insurance. Too bad it is so ugly! thanks for the link.
 
"kb3" said:
I have the battery grounded to the engine, the engine to the firewall and the radiator makes good contact with the core support. Should I ground the radiator directly to the battery?
Click to expand...

It wouldn't hurt to ground directly to the battery.

Make sure you have zero ohms resistance between the negative post on the battery and the frame, engine block, radiator, etc. . . I researched this a few years ago for a friend who went through a couple of Al heater cores on his S10 Blazer and a bad ground was the #1 cause of electrolysis. IIRC, you can also measure for voltage between the battery and the coolant itself to see if electrolysis is an issue.

As far as a sacrificial anode goes, that cap is one option. You could also get some Zinc and put it in the system somewhere. IIRC, some late model GM cars came with sacrificial anodes - I believe it was a 1/4 or 3/8" NPT plug made out of Zinc. . .

Robert
 
"66benchcoupe" said:
"kb3" said:
I have the battery grounded to the engine, the engine to the firewall and the radiator makes good contact with the core support. Should I ground the radiator directly to the battery?
Click to expand...

It wouldn't hurt to ground directly to the battery.

Make sure you have zero ohms resistance between the negative post on the battery and the frame, engine block, radiator, etc. . . I researched this a few years ago for a friend who went through a couple of Al heater cores on his S10 Blazer and a bad ground was the #1 cause of electrolysis. IIRC, you can also measure for voltage between the battery and the coolant itself to see if electrolysis is an issue.

As far as a sacrificial anode goes, that cap is one option. You could also get some Zinc and put it in the system somewhere. IIRC, some late model GM cars came with sacrificial anodes - I believe it was a 1/4 or 3/8" NPT plug made out of Zinc. . .

Robert
Click to expand...

well that would be one way to know when the anode needs replacing, coolant would leak everywhere! thanks for the pointers, when I get the new radiator in place I will break out the multimeter.
 
"cmayna" said:
Upper right snout? Northern does.
Click to expand...

Ok.....who sells Northern Radiator. I found their website ( I think ) but no link to dealers.
 
Summit Racing sells Northern radiators also. I got one from them for my 66 and have had no issues. I have had it almost 5 years now. It is sold as a summit brand radiator.
 
I picked up my Fluidyne from Summit. Will check them for Northern as well. :thum
 
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