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Another 3G question

Sluggo

Sluggo

Active Member
I'm converting my 69 Mustang to 3G using PA Performance's regulator upgrade.

I've attached a picture of my setup. My situation is a little unique because I'm also eliminating the solenoid in favor of a relay. I am running a mini-starter. Because the solenoid is eliminated I'm using a power lug to make the connections that would go there.

The orange wire coming from the old alternator harness is the one I believe the instructions say to cut and tape to the harness. The large black from the same connector goes to the ammeter. (factory gauge car) The small black is a ground that was grounded to the regulator chassis from the alternator chassis.

The large black has power to it key on or off. Since the other side of the ammeter is already hooked up to the power lug, I'm thinking that the large black can go to the lug on the battery or the alt side of the maxi fuse and possibly retain some ammeter function.

My wire colors on the regulator don't match the wiring diagram but I've confirmed that they are pinned correctly.

If you don't mind, have a look at the picture and see if it makes sense.
 
I can't help with a 3G conversion, but from what I've read and heard, you can kiss the Ford ammeter good-bye. Do not attempt to create a circuit for it, as you'll most likely wipe out the gauge itself. The ammeter circuit is "tuned" to the difference in resistance between two wires of difference gauges (thus different internal resistance) of a specified length.
 
I talked with the people at PA Performance this morning and they said to tape the old alternator pigtail to the harness and forget about it.

They also said to connect the orange wire from the regulator to the alternator.
 
No idea about the wiring but they ae nice pictures.
Are you using FScapture to add the remarks to the pictures?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
"scedd" said:
No idea about the wiring but they ae nice pictures.
Are you using FScapture to add the remarks to the pictures?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I use faststone for stuff like that. It's a bad ass little free image program. Does all sorts of things. I like it most because I can do a batch resize, water mark, text all at once.
 
"Sluggo" said:
I use faststone for stuff like that. It's a bad ass little free image program. Does all sorts of things. I like it most because I can do a batch resize, water mark, text all at once.
Click to expand...

Thats the one i meant :thu
i use it every day for doing a screen grab of a cad drawing or pdf, whack a remark or dimension on it, then paste it into an email.
It is in my list of the top 3 programs to have on a PC.
What i really like is i can use it on a Gubberment or corporate PC because it doesnt have to be installed, just save the .exe file to the desktop.
Here they are here http://www.faststone.org/
 
I'm actually using the the image viewer. It has some if not all of that built into it. I'm going to download the capture version now. It looks pretty slick.
 
"Sluggo" said:
Still confused over this. I think my regulator connector is wired wrong.

Anyone agree?
Click to expand...

Your labels may be incorrect or your wiring is reversed. I have a 69 non-tach as:
I: empty
A: green/black or yellow
S: green/red
F: orange
 
"Midlife" said:
Your labels may be incorrect or your wiring is reversed. I have a 69 non-tach as:
I: empty
A: green/black or yellow
S: green/red
F: orange
Click to expand...

I think the regulator I took off is reversed. comparing it to the new one the labels are opposite.
The regulator i took off is from top to bottom (mounted)
F
space
S
A
I

The new one is
F
S
A
space
I

WTF?
 
The space is between the I and A.

The regulator plug you took off...did the car ever run like that?

Wait a sec...the wires are in reverse order, and the labeling is in reverse order...a double negative means a positive...it should work.
 
"Midlife" said:
The space is between the I and A.

The regulator plug you took off...did the car ever run like that?

Wait a sec...the wires are in reverse order, and the labeling is in reverse order...a double negative means a positive...it should work.
Click to expand...

Uhmmmm, yeah? See why I've been a confused as queer at a wienie roast?

Anyway, this is how it looks now and it matches the wiring diagram as well. I was wondering why my battery was venting a little bit. :confu
 
A random check of VR plugs that I have don't show the lettering. Was yours on the plug itself or on the VR?
 
Isn't the 3G internally regulated? Can't you just wire it like a one wire alt?

Robert

EDIT: just did some research and I guess you do. Good luck!
 
"Midlife" said:
A random check of VR plugs that I have don't show the lettering. Was yours on the plug itself or on the VR?
Click to expand...

Regulator. Plug has no markings.
 
"66benchcoupe" said:
Isn't the 3G internally regulated? Can't you just wire it like a one wire alt?

Robert

EDIT: just did some research and I guess you do. Good luck!
Click to expand...

The box is basically a pass through. 2 terminals are dummies, one is key on power to a resistor inside and back out to green/red wire on 3G harness.
 
"Sluggo" said:
The box is basically a pass through. 2 terminals are dummies, one is key on power to a resistor inside and back out to green/red wire on 3G harness.
Click to expand...

So, basically, it allows you to easily switch back to the stock Alt setup if you ever want to, right?

Not sure about your car, but I was amazed at how much wiring I could remove from my 66 when I switched to a 1-wire alt. It really cleaned up the engine compartment and made more room for the MSD stuff.

Robert
 
Yes

It's my understanding the alternator will eventually burn up without the resistor in place. I decided to bypass the ammeter since it won't handle the added amps.
 
It shouldn't burn up if you remove the resistor wire. I'm running the 3g without the resistor wire and haven't had a problem with it and I've put over 10k miles on it over the past couple years since it was installed.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
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