Anyone install a Repro roof?

[jtfx6552]

My car was rotted all around the rear window, including the back edge of the roof. I bought a roof panel and was planning to just splice in the pieces along the back edge as needed. I have been warned not to section the roof too far form the edge as people say that might be noticeable no matter how good it's finished, something about mig welds and thermal expansion. ANYWAY, not sure if that is true but...

It looks pretty rusty under there,all the way across, and the only way to clean it out looks like taking off the roof. "ONLY" 44 spot welds on each side plus the ones in the front and back window opening. If I knew the new roof would fit, I'd probably go for it. I laid it on top, and it looks like it would fit, but looking I'm looking for someone with first hand experience.

 

[Choptop69]

The repro roofs fit really good. I have replaced about ten of them. The only places you have to concerned about are the drip rails, and the front and back "factory seam areas". Some of the drip rails are to wide some are to narrow. Most of the problems are also when you replace the bottom side of the drip rails to. If you decided to replace' start by clamping in the center of the rear then work outward. same in the front. Also clamp in the drip rails before welding. As for the factory seam areas. In the front, the top corners are the problem. Getting the chrome to fit back and tight, it's tough. The top corners are rounded not square. The rear, kind of the same. The corner chrome takes some time to fit and get right, but it can be done. My biggest piece of advice is that if you are going though all of this,sand blast and prime everything under the roof. And in the areas under where you are going to weld, please use weld through primer. If not around the welds will begin to rust and then it spreads. Imho. Hope this helps.

 

[napaguy]

Thats rusty? Am I missing something? Looks like you could clean it up some and paint/prime and be done with it.

 

[jtfx6552]

Thats rusty? Am I missing something? Looks like you could clean it up some and paint/prime and be done with it.

Thanks! Sometimes it is great to get a reality check. Maybe I'm making more out of this than there is.

What has me worried is the inner 1/4 was rusted, so I cut that channel out to clean it out where I could, where the 1/4 was removed. But I obviously can't cut it out all the way up where the roof still is.

It is rusted and thin where I cut it, and can look up in there further and see it is rusted through up under the roof, see attached pic. I think I can get the blaster in there and spray some primer, but I could do a much better clean up if the roof was off.

 

[stangg]

The repro roofs fit really good. I have replaced about ten of them. The only places you have to concerned about are the drip rails, and the front and back "factory seam areas". Some of the drip rails are to wide some are to narrow. Most of the problems are also when you replace the bottom side of the drip rails to. If you decided to replace' start by clamping in the center of the rear then work outward. same in the front. Also clamp in the drip rails before welding. As for the factory seam areas. In the front, the top corners are the problem. Getting the chrome to fit back and tight, it's tough. The top corners are rounded not square. The rear, kind of the same. The corner chrome takes some time to fit and get right, but it can be done. My biggest piece of advice is that if you are going though all of this,sand blast and prime everything under the roof. And in the areas under where you are going to weld, please use weld through primer. If not around the welds will begin to rust and then it spreads. Imho. Hope this helps.

I've only done one... and thought it was pretty easy and would agree with the above post except that the trim on mine fit perfectly when all done.

The drip rail section took the longest to seperate as it is one continuous pinch weld (like on the gas tank). I first cut the roof off leaving the last inch or two behind to make it easier to pull the remnants away as spot welds and pinch welds were dealt with. For the pinch welds I used a cut off wheel on a 4-1/2" grinder, held it vertical using the edge of the disc to grind the pinch weld down without taking any material off of the drip rail. Get as much of the sealer out of the drip channel before you start and the metal removal will go a lot easier.