Battery Relocation + Fender Solenoid Delete

[hivewax]

I'm trying to gather all the parts to move the battery to the back and eliminate the fender starter solenoid... have a mini-starter with a built-in solenoid. Here is what is planned so far:

- 14' welding 1-gauge cable positive (thicker copper wire)
- 3' welding 1-gauge cable negative ground
- fuse block spliced into the 1-gauge positive cable for future high amperage accessories
- disconnect switch w/ alternator protection - http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails1.asp?RecID=1464 - need to call for the amperage rating.
- battery tray - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFC-50302

What should I add/remove/replace/avoid? I know some just added a power distribution block under the dash to avoid all the wires going to the solenoid underneath car. Right now, I'm trying to find the right fuse block instead...

 

[fordrule]

if you use a ANL fused in the trunk area and then run the distrubution either in the trunk or in car. why use copper and not use car/audio 1/0 or 2 awg wire? kinda like when you run a upper end car system?

 

[hivewax]

I'm getting a good learning experience at MonsterCable.com ... never seen ANL fuses before. How do they attach?

I was told welding cable is the best for low-loss. I'm looking at the 400 series PowerFlex 1/0 cables and see it as a substitute - http://www.monstercable.com/mpc/productPageMPC.asp?pin=3111

I also figured out fuse blocks don't have battery cable inputs from what I've seen. Looks like I need a power distribution block...

 

[fordrule]

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-EWFH-Single-Fuse-Holder/dp/B000KIR8M0/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_b a single fuse holder from the main power to the block

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-Distribution-MPC-P400-CPS2-2/dp/B000CNNHIM/ref=sr_1_78?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1288729691&sr=1-78 a dist block for ya. this one is not fused you can also get dist blocks that have ANL or Maxi fuses. just gotta know how many amps you are going to be drawing to plan accordingly

or you can even go a circuit breaker style

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-QuickSet-MPC-P400-MCB-150/dp/B000FO20QI/ref=sr_1_125?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1288730183&sr=1-125

 

[fordrule]

it really all depends on what the future plans are going to be. are you planning on running a system(i.e. amplifiers/subs/) if so, I would plan accordingly so you have the ground work already laid and all you would need todo is install the products

 

[hivewax]

Thanks... I need to talk to my electrical engineer neighbor again. :lol

 

[buening]

Are you using a relay for the ignition wire, like in the diagram below?

 

[hivewax]

I'll pass the relay idea to the neighbor. I haven't done any rerouting yet.

 

[fordrule]

relay is a really good idea. save a solenoid. the diagram is sometime over dauntinng on a relay.

you always have a ground, 12v power and what you are turning on and off and connecting to. the relay is connecting a current and disconnects it

 

[buening]

.....otherwise take the fender solenoid and mount it in the trunk and use the following diagram:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f315/Tim65GT/Misc/MiniStarterChg.jpg

 

[fordrule]

here is a good shot at a website for a how to
http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Battery.htm

 

[hivewax]

Neighbor said relay is not needed. How come the original setup works without the relay?

 

[fordrule]

its just added security of a drain on the battery..unless midlife has a better explanation to add