Blowing 4 amp fuse

[DougG69]

And I was doing so well with the wiring...

Aside from the backup lights & hood scoop lights (which I haven't gotten around to yet) I have everything working:

headlights
tail lights
parking lights
marker lights
turn signals
dash lights
courtesy lights

...except when I plug in the clock/light harness, it blows my 4 amp fuse. I'm pretty sure I am connecting it correctly. There is a 3 wire connector on the clock harness that I am plugging into the 2 wire connector & single female bullet connector from the main harness[nb]

[/nb].

It doesn't matter whether the clock is actually connected or not. I tried it both with & without, and either way - pop goes the weasel.

It is a new repro clock harness which I'm using LED lights in (they came with the LED kit for the gauges).

Just to demonstrate my complete lack of understanding of Ohm's Law and everything electrical, I'm going to ask: if it was a short in the main harness, why wouldn't it blow the fuse without the clock harness plugged in?

 

[Grabber70Mach]

Ohm out the clock harness, sounds like the short is in there. Have you tried it without the bulbs installed? Does it still blow the fuse then?

Ohm's law E=IR

 

[Midlife]

There is a 3 wire connector on the clock harness that I am plugging into the 2 wire connector & single female bullet connector from the main harness[nb]

[/nb].

It doesn't matter whether the clock is actually connected or not. I tried it both with & without, and either way - pop goes the weasel.

I'm going to ask: if it was a short in the main harness, why wouldn't it blow the fuse without the clock harness plugged in?

Which of these two statements is correct: you blow a fuse with and without the clock connected, or only with the clock connected?

The plugs you describe use the green/yellow wiring (14 amp courtesy lamp fuse...lower right), the black wire (ground), and a blue/red clock lamp line (4 amp fuse---smallest fuse in the fuse box). Which fuse are you blowing? And does it only blow when you plug into the two wire connector?

 

[DougG69]

Ohm out the clock harness, sounds like the short is in there. Have you tried it without the bulbs installed? Does it still blow the fuse then?

Ohm's law E=IR

Have not tried it without the bulbs in the sockets. May get to that pending further investigation.

LOL @ E=IR

 

[DougG69]

Which of these two statements is correct: you blow a fuse with and without the clock connected, or only with the clock connected?

With & without.

The plugs you describe use the green/yellow wiring (14 amp courtesy lamp fuse...lower right), the black wire (ground), and a blue/red clock lamp line (4 amp fuse---smallest fuse in the fuse box). Which fuse are you blowing?

The 4 amp fuse.

And does it only blow when you plug into the two wire connector?

Honestly, I'm not sure. I remember plugging in the 2 wire connector first both times. This last time I did hear a little 'tic' when I plugged the 2 wire connector in, but I thought it was the clock reacting to getting power. I could always sacrifice another fuse to find out.

I was starting to wonder if the 3 wire plug on the repro clock harness might be shorting internally.

 

[Midlife]

Remove the bulb from the clock. Check resistance between the blue/red wire and the ground lead on the clock. It should read something like 100 kilo-ohms or higher. Now plug in the bulb. Re-measure. You should see about 10 ohms (the resistance of the bulb).

Now the plug you show feeds both the map lamp and the clock and clock lamp. It feeds into a three-pronged connector (yes...two plus one into three) into a subharness that feeds two maps, the clock, and the map lamp.

My guess is that you're not connecting it properly. *Duh*

 

[Midlife]

I just happen to have a 1969 that I'm working on that has this harness. Here's a picture of what I am talking about...

 

[Grabber70Mach]

It is a new repro clock harness which I'm using LED lights in (they came with the LED kit for the gauges).

You should see about 10 ohms (the resistance of the bulb).

Mid would he get that with the LED's?

 

[DougG69]

I just happen to have a 1969 that I'm working on that has this harness. Here's a picture of what I am talking about...

Yes, that's how I've been doing it. That leaves the 2 wire connector open for the map light sub-harness.

 

[gotstang]

Mid would he get that with the LED's?

I think you're on to something. I've seen problems in other apps where they depend on the resistance of the bulb for the circuit to work properly...things go to hell in a handbasket when you substitute LEDs. Then again, I have no idea how this particular whatzit works; maybe Mid can shed some light on the subject.

 

[DougG69]

If it helps, this is the LED kit I'm using:

http://www.hipoparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=768

Supposedly if there are one or two incandescent bulbs in the circuit, they will dim with the rheostat.


@ Grabber70Mach:
When you posted Ohm's law E=IR, for some reason my mind was stuck on football & I took it as E(lectricity) = IR (Injured Reserve), as in be careful or your season is over! Sometimes I worry about me :rtard

 

[DougG69]

PROBLEM SOLVED!

Well, I think I found the problem. Can anybody guess what it was?

I had some spare UL1895's laying around, they are working like a champ.

Now if my clock only worked :eek

 

[Midlife]

Re: PROBLEM SOLVED!

Well, I think I found the problem. Can anybody guess what it was?

I had some spare UL1895's laying around, they are working like a champ.

Now if my clock only worked :eek

The nut behind the steering wheel? :scar

 

[Sluggo]

Re: PROBLEM SOLVED!

Well, I think I found the problem. Can anybody guess what it was?

I had some spare UL1895's laying around, they are working like a champ.

Now if my clock only worked :eek

Looks like that led shorted itself to ground.

 

[DougG69]

Re: PROBLEM SOLVED!

The nut behind the steering wheel? :scar

lol

Well, I asked for it...

 

[DougG69]

Re: PROBLEM SOLVED!

Looks like that led shorted itself to ground.

At least it was a cheap fix ep

 

[DougG69]

Follow-up

Now if my clock only worked :eek

Made some progress on the clock today.

Took it to work with me, got the gears freed up with a little oil. Plugged it in tonight to test it, and zoom! Takes about a minute to go through 24 hrs! I am just too good

Time for a little more research :RTFM

 

[AzPete]

It most likely was not designed for 120 volts....... :lol :lol :lol :lol

 

[DougG69]

It most likely was not designed for 120 volts....... :lol :lol :lol :lol

:rofl

No, I plugged it into the harness... if they 'stang is pushing 120v, I have bigger problems than just the clock!

You crazy kids, I can't take you anywhere :headac