67resto-coupe
Member
i'm stumped.....can't figure out why the brake lights won't go off. i replaced the original switch on the pedal, thinking it was the switch, but no. where's a good place to start looking? thanks.
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brake lights won't shut off...?
- Thread starter 67resto-coupe
- Start date
Try the turn signal switch; sometimes it goes bonkers.
crustycurmudgeon
Well-Known Member
I seem to recall having this problem a few decades ago. It might have been a defective or incorrect replacement switch.
Is there a return spring on the pedal that keeps it from resting on the switch?
Frank
Is there a return spring on the pedal that keeps it from resting on the switch?
Frank
67resto-coupe
Member
you know, it's weird.....i even tried to pull up on the pedal with my toes and i couldn't get the lights off. also the brake light on the dash is constantly on, so i'm wondering if there is a connector for the parking brake, too?
No parking brake light switch for any Ford vehicle was routed to the tailights. Some models had a separate parking brake light indicator with it's only timer relay, but it was an entirely a separate circuit. In 1967, it was part of an appearance group, wholly separate from the main harness.
daveSanborn
Active Member
You won't find me giving electrical advice often, but let me offer this....
Disconnect the two wires from the pedal support mounted brake switch. Your brake lights should go out. Using a jumper wire, connect the two disconnected wires to each other. Your brake lights should come on. If this scenario plays out, you've confirmed that your "out of the equation" disconnected brake light switch is defective.
Disconnect the two wires from the pedal support mounted brake switch. Your brake lights should go out. Using a jumper wire, connect the two disconnected wires to each other. Your brake lights should come on. If this scenario plays out, you've confirmed that your "out of the equation" disconnected brake light switch is defective.
Fast68back
Guest
Have you had anything else unplugged?
66gt350
Active Member
When you put the new switch on, did you put on a plastic bushing? On both my car and the wife's, I've had to remove that bushing. There needs to be some movement between the rod coming off the M/C and the pin on the pedal. With the bushing on there, the switch doesn't have the movement to dissengage.
67resto-coupe
Member
i'll be investigating this further tonite...but to answer the prior questions:
1. anything else unplugged?......yes, there are many wires underneath the dash that i can't really identify, i think they're mostly stereo wires. others mostly belonging to the vent box that i have out of the car, so i don't think that's related. glove box is out, too. my trans shift indicator light won't come on either. oddly - headlights, front & rear signals and rear brake/running lights work fine. BUT the back up lights don't work either, so...are all of these linked? as i stated earlier, i have a dash "warning" or indicator light "BRAKE" that's always on, so that's throwing me for a loop. per a prior note, tho, that light is not in the loom so i don't what that's from.
2. plastic bushing....yes. i have 3 different bushings on there, per the manual. there's a flat washer between the brake arm and the inside edge of the switch, a bushing that goes around the brake lever post, then another flat bushing. then the safety/cotter pin.
*** let me toss out some history of this brake system as it just dawned on me. this is a new master cylinder that was part of a "master drum brake rebuild kit" from mustangs plus. it came with new drums, cylinders, bearings, etc and this master cylinder. is there a CHANCE that the hole in the pushrod is slightly smaller than the original one, thus causing constant pressure to the switch?
i'll try to take the center bushing out and see what that does to this situation. as for back up lights...i'll check the bulbs...(doh, on my part).
***** UPDATE ****** IT WAS THE MIDDLE BUSHING. i think this aftermarket mast.cyl. pushrod has an ever-so-slightly smaller hole than the original one. and i mean minimal. took out the bushing and now i have brake lights. THANKS - 66GT350, and everyone else for the help.
1. anything else unplugged?......yes, there are many wires underneath the dash that i can't really identify, i think they're mostly stereo wires. others mostly belonging to the vent box that i have out of the car, so i don't think that's related. glove box is out, too. my trans shift indicator light won't come on either. oddly - headlights, front & rear signals and rear brake/running lights work fine. BUT the back up lights don't work either, so...are all of these linked? as i stated earlier, i have a dash "warning" or indicator light "BRAKE" that's always on, so that's throwing me for a loop. per a prior note, tho, that light is not in the loom so i don't what that's from.
2. plastic bushing....yes. i have 3 different bushings on there, per the manual. there's a flat washer between the brake arm and the inside edge of the switch, a bushing that goes around the brake lever post, then another flat bushing. then the safety/cotter pin.
*** let me toss out some history of this brake system as it just dawned on me. this is a new master cylinder that was part of a "master drum brake rebuild kit" from mustangs plus. it came with new drums, cylinders, bearings, etc and this master cylinder. is there a CHANCE that the hole in the pushrod is slightly smaller than the original one, thus causing constant pressure to the switch?
i'll try to take the center bushing out and see what that does to this situation. as for back up lights...i'll check the bulbs...(doh, on my part).
***** UPDATE ****** IT WAS THE MIDDLE BUSHING. i think this aftermarket mast.cyl. pushrod has an ever-so-slightly smaller hole than the original one. and i mean minimal. took out the bushing and now i have brake lights. THANKS - 66GT350, and everyone else for the help.