Brake Line question

[Havok1]

Alright guys and girls, I'm ready to order new brake lines, but I'm confused on which to order. The car started as a 6 cyl with 4 lug drums all the way around. I'm replacing the rear end with one that's 5 lug drum. The front will have a disc setup from a 71 Mustang. So the question is this, do I order the the brake lines for the year and brakes I had or the ones I have? :dun

 

[cmayna]

Brian,

Have is the magic word.

Can I safely assume it is now a v8 with dual exhaust? If so, you might discover that the bracket welded to the bottom side which the long rear brake line connect with the rubber rear axle line might now be too close to the dual exhaust. As I did with Red who was originally a T code, I relocated this rear welded on bracket more towards the driver's side, away from the tunnel.

Doing this allowed me to order a standard v8 rear brake line.

So yes, order a v8 car setup.

 

[Grabber70Mach]

You will probably not be able to order a specific kit with so many variables that you added. What size is the rear end, what year car did it come out of? Are you using the stock 4 drum proportioning valve? You might want to call inline tube and talk to them with all the specific information about your components, they may be able to quote you a custom price on a kit specially made to suit your application.

 

[Havok1]

:hmm Well, Craig, I am going to have dual exhaust, but I'm keeping the inline six. The headers both come off the passenger side. The rear end is an 8 inch 67-68. I'll be getting a non-stock proportioning valve. Knowing all that, does that help?

 

[Ponyman66]

Brian as you probably recall, my coupe was a six that got an 8" rear end swap. I also have Granada discs up front now. I would fully expect you've swapped out the M/C for a dual reservoir one also.

Here's the problem with going with ANYTHING stock, '66 or '71. The front (flexible) brake lines which go to the calipers mount totally different than a drum set up. The frame mounted bracket is located differently and WILL need to be relocated. Working back, now the hard lines for a stock application won't work because a) they'll route differently from the prop valve and b) run further due to relocating the bracket. From the M/C to the prop valve will need to be fab'ed because the originals for either year probably won't line up to the prop valve. From the prop valve to the rear will be an issue in having to be re-routed for the prop valve point. From that point to the rear would probably be okay, but may also run short due to re-routing at the prop valve. Once it gets to the rear you'll need to relocate THAT bracket too! If you don't, you run the risk of the flex line to the rear hitting the left exhaust pipe. Ya want some good news? The dual exhaust flex line will fit for a '66 w/ 8"!!

It would be GREAT to be able to piece together some standard pieces from several different years/applications, but I don't think you'll have much luck. Are you wanting to use stainless lines or standard steel?

 

[Havok1]

Yes, I've got a dual MC and was going to do stainless John. Well, all of this is giving me something to think about. :hs

 

[Ponyman66]

Stainless...ouch! May be more durable, looks better longer, etc....but tough stuff to work with! Not easy to bend or flare (unless you've got some high dollar equipment to do it with...e.g. hydraulics), and can be a bear sometimes to get to seal. Not to mention higher price for the tubing. I know that a lot of people think it's THE thing, but (and I know I may catch some flack for this but...), IMHO unless it's a high dollar full custom show car or dedicated high performance race car, I could never justify it myself.

If you decide to go plain steel DIY, give me a call. We could possibly work something out to help you. If you lost my number just shoot me a PM.

 

[Jonk67]

I had too many variable changes to go with a stock line setup also - custom front brake caliper setup, adj. prop valve, 9" rear added, etc. Some of these ended up changing the size of the ferrel nut so stock size wouldn't fit anyway. I decided to just bend my own and used polymer coated steel lines from NAPA (others carry also). These are the easiest lines I've ever bent as I coiled one around a 3/4" socket to make the curly Q at the MC. They also had short (<12") lines with 2 different sized fittings so I didn't need to cut/flare to hook from the MC to the prop valve.

Jon

 

[Ponyman66]

I know you've posted pics before of your set up Jon (I saved them!). If I didn't say it before, I'll say it now....I think they turned out GREAT!! Looks really clean and professional! :thum

 

[Havok1]

I know you've posted pics before of your set up Jon (I saved them!). If I didn't say it before, I'll say it now....I think they turned out GREAT!! Looks really clean and professional! :thum

Agreed, Jon, your setup looks great. John, I was only going stainless because I thought I could get away with pre-bent ordered lines. Looks like it'll be DIY steel. Another first. I'll give you a call later.

 

[Ponyman66]

Looks like it'll be DIY steel. Another first. I'll give you a call later.

By all means, please do so. I'll be home every night for the next two weeks. As of right now I'll be leaving for the academy on 4 Nov....unless it changes.... AGAIN!

 

[manley]

Stainless...ouch! May be more durable, looks better longer, etc....but tough stuff to work with! Not easy to bend or flare (unless you've got some high dollar equipment to do it with...e.g. hydraulics), and can be a bear sometimes to get to seal. Not to mention higher price for the tubing. I know that a lot of people think it's THE thing, but (and I know I may catch some flack for this but...), IMHO unless it's a high dollar full custom show car or dedicated high performance race car, I could never justify it myself.

If you decide to go plain steel DIY, give me a call. We could possibly work something out to help you. If you lost my number just shoot me a PM.

One other thing that may be important: when I bought stainless lines for my car years ago, the ferrules are still steel and rust after awhile. It somewhat defeats the purpose of having stainless lines. At least, for me. I'm not putting stainless back on my car. I'm thinking about re-routing the lines and bending my own. I already have the tools from doing a 67 Custom 500 years ago.