choke ?

[RustyRed]

I had an opportunity to run home at lunch and check out a couple of things.

What is the required volts to make an electric choke work correctly?

Stuck a volts meter to mine and it is running about 4 to 5 volts and pretty sure that is low.

Currently I have it wired to the strator post on the alternator but my ground was a bit questionable. Guessing I should start by finding a better place to ground it and go from there?

 

[tarafied1]

I believe the Stator puts out about 6 volts. That should work regardless. What ground are you talking about?

 

[RustyRed]

I used the "extra" post on the alternator but I am thinking I probably want to move that one to ground it elsewhere.

 

[daveSanborn]

My memory is telling me that modern carb electric chokes require a good 12v switched power source.

 

[RustyRed]

My memory is telling me that modern carb electric chokes require a good 12v switched power source.

I had read somewhere that Ford used the Strator so that is why I went there.

But I would be cool with hooking it up elsewhere if anyone has any good suggestions?

 

[daveSanborn]

From the factory the choke feed wire comes off of the engine harness with the oil and water temp sender wires. Find a wiring diagram and trace that wire to determine it's voltage..... or wait until Randy/Midlife chimes in as he'll know from memory.

 

[tarafied1]

I have my Holley choke hooked up to the stator "S" terminal and it works good. What carb/choke do you have?

 

[RustyRed]

It's a Holley 600.

I know which harness you're talking about Dave but I don't recall an extra wire on mine....did they just splice into one of the wires?

Wondering if I shouldn't try finding a better ground and seeing if that helps my problem?

 

[apollard]

I have my Holley choke hooked up to the stator "S" terminal and it works good. What carb/choke do you have?

My summit carb choke is hooked to the stator; it's fully off in about 2-3 minutes. Advantage is that the choke only heats up when the car is turning at idle or above.

 

[Midlife]

Ford only used electric chokes in very rare circumstances. When they did, they tied it to the STATOR post. Yes, it has only 6V or so on it, so the choke reacts a bit slower than a 12V switched source. That's preferable than a choke that comes on too quickly, IMHO.

 

[daveSanborn]

I've heard the advice to go with the Stator post on the rear of the ALT many times over, yet in every single carb I've ever installed it states to use a 12V switched source.

A quick google search led to Holley's choke installation instructions that I've linked below. Note that it states on page 4 to use a 12v switched power source.

13. Connect the long wire from the kit to the positive choke cap to the terminal marked (+). Connect the other end of the wire to an ignition activated 12V source. The choke cap should only get voltage when the engine is running. Check your voltage source with a voltmeter.

These are the same (basically) instructions that have come with every carb I've ever installed.

http://holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7972-4.pdf

[pdf]http://holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7972-4.pdf[/pdf]

 

[Midlife]

I agree that 12V switched source is the best to use. However, it wasn't until 1969 that Ford had a 12V switched source somewhere in the engine compartment, and that was used only for one of the lines to the Voltage Regulator. All other 12V sources in the engine compartment work also in ACC position, which can be used for the choke. The problem here is that you have to be extraordinarily careful to keep the key out of the ACC or RUN position before starting the cold engine. If not, the choke will heat up first and when you start the car, it'll be like having no choke at all.

So...pick your poison: STATOR post with slower choke, 12V unswitched power with possible choke unavailable when cold, routing a line through the firewall to a switched power source, or manual choke.

 

[tarafied1]

I know Holley says 12v but I have no issues with the STATOR 6v. I do drive the car year round and in the cold, although KY doesn't get real cold. I have the choke set pretty lean too.

 

[RustyRed]

So...pick your poison: STATOR post with slower choke, 12V unswitched power with possible choke unavailable when cold, routing a line through the firewall to a switched power source, or manual choke.

It wouldn't be difficult nor the end of the world far as I am concerned to run a line through the firewall to a switched power source but I haven't had time to study up on a good spot to plug into a 12 v switched source under the dash that wouldn't put a drain on other items. Actually, I could hide a wire pretty well running from the choke to the firewall....just run it along side the gauge feed harness and if I got really industrious I could wrap it with tape to really hide it and make appear like it was supposed to be a part of the harness.

 

[AzPete]

I agree that 12V switched source is the best to use. However, it wasn't until 1969 that Ford had a 12V switched source somewhere in the engine compartment, and that was used only for one of the lines to the Voltage Regulator. All other 12V sources in the engine compartment work also in ACC position, which can be used for the choke. The problem here is that you have to be extraordinarily careful to keep the key out of the ACC or RUN position before starting the cold engine. If not, the choke will heat up first and when you start the car, it'll be like having no choke at all.

So...pick your poison: STATOR post with slower choke, 12V unswitched power with possible choke unavailable when cold, routing a line through the firewall to a switched power source, or manual choke.

Really, how hard is it to avoid ACC or RUN positions when it is cold?? If you sit and listen to the radio in cold weather, with the engine off, you deserve a hard to start car. And leaving it in run without starting could be hard on a lot of things. Now, if this does happen to you..put the key in off...all it takes is a couple mins. in that freezing weather for the choke coil to cool, thus giving you a good choke to start with. This is also providing you didn't kill your battery with the car not running for so long. lol

BTW, mine runs to the 12 volt keyed from the starter solenoid.