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connection between pedal and kickdown linkage?

6

67resto-coupe

Member
i'm making some of the last connections on the reinstall of my C4 trans, but can't figure this out. the manual is not very obvious either.
from the trans, near the neutral safety switch, there is a small cable that leads to and connects to the bottom of the pedal assembly.
it looks like a small threaded rod with a plug and the plug has a smaller rod sticking out. that smaller rod goes into the pedal assembly.
only thing is, i can't figure out how to fasten it to the pedal assembly. there aren't any holes for a cotter pin and the small rod is not threaded.
any suggestions? would pics help? i'm thinking you all have seen this connection...or so i'm hoping.
thanks.
 
Though the clip that holds this cable to the arm is partially hidden in this pic hopefully it helps. I have this cable and it's clip somewhere in my garage and can always take another pic, but no longer have the pedal arm.

4_18_06_10_6_16_17.jpg
 
PERFECT~~~~!!!!!! i have a horrible habit if removing fasteners and putting them into a collection of bowls. i had just looked at that funky double washer/double clamp thingy yesterday and wondered "hmm, wonder where the hell this came from?"......i just found and popped it on.....now on to more reassembly.
 
ok, so sorry to have to revisit this post again...i have the cable connected and secured with the special clip, but now the kickdown lever is "locked" in place....when you press the gas, the kick down lever doesn't budge. what gives? i did tighten the 2 bolts to the neutral safety switch...maybe i tightened them too much? they were just finger tight, so i twisted them down a bit more. what could be binding the movement? also, i had the rear of the car raised to break in a new torque converter. while in the air, i would put the car in gear and the rear right wheel would spin...so far so good. but when i put it in reverse...i expected a reverse rotation, but it didn't move? did i somehow lose reverse gear? thanks everyone!! a special thanks to SAC69 - he's been a tremendous help in this process, as well as the many good people on this site.
 
"67resto-coupe" said:
ok, so sorry to have to revisit this post again...i have the cable connected and secured with the special clip, but now the kickdown lever is "locked" in place....when you press the gas, the kick down lever doesn't budge. what gives? i did tighten the 2 bolts to the neutral safety switch...maybe i tightened them too much? they were just finger tight, so i twisted them down a bit more. what could be binding the movement? also, i had the rear of the car raised to break in a new torque converter. while in the air, i would put the car in gear and the rear right wheel would spin...so far so good. but when i put it in reverse...i expected a reverse rotation, but it didn't move? did i somehow lose reverse gear? thanks everyone!! a special thanks to SAC69 - he's been a tremendous help in this process, as well as the many good people on this site.
Click to expand...

Adjust the cable so that at WOT, the kick down lever on the transmission is at it's maximum travel. This will leave a bunch of slack in the cable when it's not at WOT. The kickdown lever on the side of the transmission should be easy to move with your hand, though, and should snap back to it's "resting position" when you let go of it. It is EXTREMELY important, that you hold the internal kickdown lever still, using a wrench or crescent wrench on the flats of the shaft, when loosening/tightening the nut on it. Failure to do so will snap off the arm on the inside of the transmission, and the only fix is to open up the tranny, and re-weld the internal arm to the shaft. Been there, done, that, got the t-shirt ... and I even knew better when I did it, but just got lazy.

Did you have the valve body out? With it not turning the wheel in reverse, either your shift linkage is not adjusted correctly, or the manual shift lever is not seated correctly in the ident of the manual shift valve. That is a very common thing to overlook, when putting the valve body back in. Only way to fix that one is pull the pan and the valve body again. The other (hopefully your problem) is an easy fix from the outside. I think we've all made that mistake once, when R&Ring a valve body. It's a mistake you only make once, because it's enough of a PIA to fix.
 
"67resto-coupe" said:
ok, so sorry to have to revisit this post again...i have the cable connected and secured with the special clip, but now the kickdown lever is "locked" in place....when you press the gas, the kick down lever doesn't budge. what gives?
Click to expand...

I've noticed that if I tighten the nut on the shaft for the kickdown lever, the lever is too tight to move easily. I just backed off the nut a little till the lever moved freely.
 
"Mustang_Charly" said:
I've noticed that if I tighten the nut on the shaft for the kickdown lever, the lever is too tight to move easily. I just backed off the nut a little till the lever moved freely.
Click to expand...

That's not right. You need to fully secure that nut, or you'll loose it going down the road. You need to find out what it's binding to, when you tighten it down. Remember to hold the shaft still when loosening/tightening that nut.
 
meh...i think i figured it out...at least i see a hint. i'll have to pull the valvebody again. i almost feel like i should install a new trans pan, while i'm at it....at least one that has a drain plug.
anyway, i got a good look at the lever to see why it's not moving...it's stuck/locked in the down position, point to the rear of the car. so i think that when i reinstalled the valvebody, i must have somehow flipped the lever down and that's how it's stuck. soooo, i can see now what i'll be doing on my friday night. yay. hooray. on the positive side....i'm going to the dmv to see if i can get the car re-registered. if i can get a sticker and can r&i this valvebody - i may be driving on saturday. something positive to shoot for, right?
 
"67resto-coupe" said:
i almost feel like i should install a new trans pan, while i'm at it....at least one that has a drain plug ... something positive to shoot for, right?
Click to expand...

You can buy a drain plug and install it. I've gotten to where I always either install a drain plug or a pan with a drain plug, any time I remove a stock automatic pan. Even have a drain plug in AzPete's new '66's AOD.

And, yes, definitely something positive to shoot for!
 
UPDATE: ok...so i started the valve body removal 9pm last night (fri)....finished around 1am. made sure to get the kick-down lever back into the UP position. fixed that. i'm slow, i'm still learning. put the car in the driveway this morning, raised the rear again to "break-in" the trans and get all the fluid going. tires spin backwards when in reverse, so i got reverse back. so far so good. decided to not just go around the block - went around several blocks, but within 1/2 mile from my house - poof! the lower radiator hose blew off the water pump - did i make sure to check all the clamps? i swear i did.
then the car died. maybe coolant shorted out the alternator? car wouldn't restart, so i think the original starter is really struggling with heat soak from the new long tube headers. pushed back into the garage for now. ordered a new hi-torque mini starter from db electric and it should ship on monday. haven't driven this car in over 10 years....new motor is plenty stout and trans seems ok for now. now have to go clean off all that darn coolant....i'm going to refill with distilled h20 & h20 wetter - will make future blow outs less messy.
 
Well, that's mostly great news. Sorry to hear of the coolant mess everywhere, though. These things always happen, though, when you first put a car on the road. I remember the maiden voyage for my '66, I picked up a nail in the tire, and got a flat. Talk about your rotten luck!! Brand spankin' new tires at the time.
 
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