Converting to power brakes

[Stokes66]

I bought a mbm mc1321h off a guy with the understanding that it was a direct bolt on. Just connecting brake lines and vacuum. After looking on line for a manual for it I've found that people are saying it may not work but some that say it's great. Have any if y'all ever tried one?

66 302 3 speed auto


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[Jonk67]

Haven't tried one but had no idea what the part # was, maybe the link will help get someone to chime in:
http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/index.p ... t&Itemid=6

Jon

 

[Stokes66]

That's the one I have. Didn't know if I needed to put the front and back on different bowls or leave it on the one going into the splitter block.


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[Stokes66]

This to be exact.


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[Jonk67]

Ok, you lost me, what do you mean by 'putting the front and back on different bowls' and what are you calling a 'splitter box'. There should be a distribution valve and it should have separate ports for the front and rear bowl lines coming from the MC. Then it should have 3 lines going out, L&R front lines and 1 rear line. Do you have a pic of the splitter box?

It looks like the bowls are the same size, many MC have one larger bowl (front disc brakes) but if you have 4wh. drum they can be same size. Most often the front bowl is the rear brakes and rear bowl front brakes, may not make a difference in your instance but I think even my stock MC with even bowls and 4wh. drum was plumbed this way factory.
Jon
Jon

 

[Stokes66]

I'll get a pic this afternoon.


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[Grabber70Mach]

At minimum you want to come out of one port usually the larger one to feed a "T" fitting than out to the left and right front brake. Than the smaller bowls port would feed the rear brakes by going through an adjustable proportionate valve. This is all assuming that you are not running a stock brake distribution/proportioning valve.

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[Stokes66]

This is the best I could with the bad black paint job. That the splitter I had mentioned.


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[Grabber70Mach]

Ah your converting from a jelly jar MC. Basically I would undo the line running to the rear brakes and install a adjustable proportioning valve inline then make a short section of line to go from the PV to the smaller resivoir on the MC. Get a plug to block off the port that you removed the line from on the original distribution block, this needs to be a flared fitting plug. Run the other original line that came from the original MC to the open port on the new MC. Oh don't forget to bench bleed the MC before installing, then bleed complete brake system.

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[Jonk67]

Is there a check valve in the distribution (splitter) block of the single bowl setup? The check ball keeps you from loosing all your brakes if you have a leak in front or rear system, at least you have one or the other in a panic situation. Either way you are going to need to bend lines from the dual bowl to the dist. valve. I had good luck bending the new polymer coated lines that NAPA and others sell. You can get them with 2 different size ends in the short lengths (8" - 12"?).

If not I would change to a '67> dist. valve or an aftermarket one like the wilwood and gain adjustment ability should you ever switch to front disc/rear drum, disc/disc etc. or just want to fine tune your F/R bias.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-2 ... /overview/

Jon