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Crazy brake troubles

Badass70

Badass70

Member
I installed Dan from chockostangs front disk brake conversion for my 70 everything went very easy no problems except for finding adapters for master cylinder. Bled system very well no air in lines petal nice and firm. Well that seemed to do it until you get into the car to drive it. Two feet on the brake is the only way to stop it, feels Like driving a car with power disk with a bad booster. I have manual disk/drum. So I talked to Dan and several others right now it's at my buddies shop he's tryin to figure it out. The only thing I can think of at this point is a bad master cylinder everything else seems to work, I'm all out of ideas anybody have this problem before?
 
That's could be it Dan said I could use the same block which was a plus because its a pain in the ass to install all those lines in there. Any way of telling if that is the cause?
 
Hmmm.... I've used that kit, but it's been awhile. Is it designed to be used with a non-disc brake pedal? Or are you supposed to also change out the brake pedal to a Disc Brake pedal? I do know that using the correct brake pedal makes a world of difference.
 
From what Dan says brake pedal stays the same unless you change MC it has a different plunger. My only thing is I was thinking that the plunger is not opening all the way causing
The lack of brake. Idk just seems like the fluid isn't getting through fast enough unless its a bad MC out of the box.
 
The pedals only change when you add a brake booster onto a manual brake car.

You either have to use an original style brake proportioning block or use the original drum/drum brake distribution block and install an adjustable proportioning valve on the line going to the rear drums.

Even with the extra pedal effort, does the brake bias feel pretty balanced (front and rear working proportionally)?

Typically a bad M/C will either not push fluid from one or both bowls, or you'll have a firm pedal but when you hold the pedal down it will slowly sink to the floor. From what you are describing, the bore on the M/C isn't sized properly but the Maverick M/C has a 15/16" bore...which is hardly considered large. The larger the bore the more pedal effort.

I'm going through my own brake headaches right now, but mine is with a spongy pedal, so I feel your pain!
 
Today we narrowed it down to the proportioning valve not working properly causing the rear brakes not to compress all the way so I'm getting a new one of those. Using drum drum valve with proportioning valve. I hope this is it and I wish you luck with yours!
 
Finally everything is back to normal ended up being the porportioning valve, just wasn't operating the correct way. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
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