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drive shaft questions

mmw68

Member
Hey Shawn,

So, I just put a T5 into my 1967 mustang, and need a drive shaft. Being new to the mustang world, Iam confused! :shrug
Do I have a 8.0 or 8.8 rear end? How do I tell? And what about the u-joints? I see lots of options.

I have not replaced the rear springs, or front suspension yet - will this affect my measurements?

What is the turn around time on these?

THANKS ! Mark
 
Who knows what you have. :shrug Somebody along the cars history could of installed anything. Some pictures missing on this page but the ones that are there will be usefull - http://kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

As for u-joints, just measure what you have now - 1310 U-joints measure 3 7/32" cap to cap and have a 1 1/16" cap diameter.
 
"mmw68" said:
Hey Shawn,

So, I just put a T5 into my 1967 mustang, and need a drive shaft. Being new to the mustang world, Iam confused! :shrug
Do I have a 8.0 or 8.8 rear end? How do I tell? And what about the u-joints? I see lots of options.

I have not replaced the rear springs, or front suspension yet - will this affect my measurements?

What is the turn around time on these?

THANKS ! Mark
What Shaun posted is useful to identify an 8 or 9 inch. If you have a mostly original car the rear is/was probably an 8 inch rear. The 8.8 was a Foxbody and later rear end and it is not common to see one in a classic Stang because they used coil springs rather than leaf springs. (They did use 8.8's in Rangers and Exploders too). It is possible someone put one in but it is a lot of work so not likely. You should be able to tell by looking. As you can see in the link from Shaun, the 8 inch and 9 inch center section will bolt in from the front of the housing while the 8.8 will have a "cover" bolted on in the back. The 8.8 also commonly used a flange at the pinion while the 8 and 9 inch did not (except on some Versailles and Granada 9").
The front suspension will have no impact on your driveshaft. Changing leaf springs shouldn't either.
 
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