Eastwood ceramic engine paint - anyone used it?

[buckeyedemon]

THAT is far from being Ford dark blue.

The following picture of a valve cover was taken from the following link. The person claims it was painted Duplicolor 1606. Compare that to my engine.

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/http://localhost/stangfixp/viewtopic.php?p=4009#p4009

In the following thread you make the following statement:

http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php/topic,2649.0.html

Picked up a few cans of Duplicolor DE1606 engine paint last night. Nice dark blue.

For future reference, keep in mind that lighting/cameras can play games with colors.

 

[Midlife]

Yes, the paint code was given to me by Charles Turner, who got it from Bob Perkins. I still have the note with the paint color: DAR 13898, Duplicolor DE 1606, and Martin Seynour 7958 are all equivalents. I ended up with Centari 63203A, by DuPont, and it is another equivalent that my paint shop cross-referenced to the 13898 color. The recipe I referred to by CT is the same DAR 13898.

There are 3 Ford Blue colors: a light Ford Blue, a Dark Corporate Blue (13898) and a later Corporate Blue, intermediate between the two. The DCB has a tinge of purple in it to my eye.

I wonder if the 13358 code is the later Corporate Blue. Indeed it is, as the color change was made by Ford in 1969, IIRC. The link that references 13358 is for a 69.

 

[Midlife]

I'm going by memory as to what happened (7 years ago)...I believe the paint shop couldn't find the 13898 code, but matched it to the Martin-Seymour code....

 

[caspian65]

I don't recall giving out a 13898 code, but anything is possible I guess. If I did, it was a mistake. The code that I'm certain I have been giving out for many years is DAR 13358 which is a PPG acrylic enamel code. From what I understand, the DAR line has been discontinued in some areas. My painter can still get it mixed with no problems though.

As to the color being light or dark, I think a lot depends on surface preparation and how it's applied. Originally the paint barely covered, which might give it a dark appearance over time. A lot of times 13358 will match up very close to areas with original paint like valve covers and air cleaners. Although, with everything we know about how these cars were made, it is very likely that there were some variations of engine paint color.

One last thing I will mention is that there are very few original examples to go by these days and I think a lot of opinions are based on... well, just that, opinions. There have been so many variations of corporate blue in rattle cans that over the years has most likely skewed memories of what was originally applied by Ford.

 

[Midlife]

Thanks, Charles, for clearing that up. That explains why my paint shop couldn't find the 13898 code, but the match they did make to the other color designations was very pleasing to my eye.

 

[CoupedUp]

Here is a picture of the Eastwood paint. You be the judge, but in my opinion it's too blue.....

 

[apollard]

Looks to blue to me also.

 

[XABN_INF_Officer]

I am painting the engine in my 1967 GT 500 since I recently pulled it to have my vehicle painted. The Centari is an acrylic enamel. The exhaust runners protrude from the head and the rattle can " engine paint" burnt off in short order. Will the enamel hold up to heat for a long period, or should I consider the POR 15 Corporate blue offering? It claims to hold up to 650 degrees.

 

[Anonymous]

I've have used rattle can ceramic with good results on the block, valve covers, pan and wp and had good results. The big disadvantage is it doesn't resist oil and gas too well like a catalyzed acrylic enamel. On exhaust manifolds or headers, I'd seek out someone who "jet coats". It appears to hold up the best on high temperature applications.