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EFI parts??

K

KGMUSTANG

New Member
This question doesn't really belong here but I didn't want to sign up on another form. While looking for EFI parts for my 66 with a 302 roller I found a Bronco II with some useable pieces. This 88 model has a inline fuel pump mounted on the inside of the left frame rail under the drivers seat area. It is mounted inside a nice foam rubber liner and steel bracket and has "duckbill" fittings on both ends. Does anyone know the GPH, LPH, #'s/h and pressure available??? Also there is a part up stream of the pump that looks like it might be a canister type filter, right or wrong??? I would like to consider these for my conversion. The salvage yard tears out the fuel tanks so I can't tell you what it/they was. The II was a v6 and I think a 4WD. Anyone have any answers??
 
I don't have specific answers for all of your questions, but yes the cannister is a fuel filter. It's very likely.... that unless you're building a monster fuel sucking motor...... the fuel pump and filter will work great for your conversion.
 
OEM Ford fuel pump and filter is working GREAT on my EFI 347.


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daveSanborn, thanks for the pics. you appear to be using inverted flare fuel line and hose barbs or is the hose over Ford type fittings and then clamped?? I am most familar with the fox sys where the filter is after the pump. obviously your sys works with the filter protecting the pump also. which pump are you using? thanks, KG
 
Some early (EFI) Ford trucks had two fuel pumps, one in the tank and another in line so if the tank is low on fuel and your off-roading, the system won't go dry so to speak. Is this fuel pump your talking about one of these?
 
That sounds like a good explanation and would explain the filter between the tank and the in line pump. Thanks, KG
 
you appear to be using inverted flare fuel line and hose barbs or is the hose over Ford type fittings and then clamped??
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Not to be a smartass, but yes. The sending unit has it's traditional non-EFI flares on it, the EFI fuel filter has the OEM Ford type EFI inlet and outlet nipples. The inlet side of the EFI pump has a barbed threaded fitting screwed into it. The outlet port of the EFI pump has it's OEM Ford type EFI nipple. There is a barbed fitting on the hard line that runs forward to the engine.

It's a hob-nob of connections and fittings, but has NEVER leaked. Prior to the pump nothing is pressurized so it's only single clamped. After the HP EFI pump all of the soft line connections have double clamps. It ain't beautiful, nor will it win any design contests, but it works and it couldn't have been put together any cheaper.

All of the reading I did on fuel filter placement told me to place the filter before the pump to protect it from any gas tank debris.

I forget the PN/application for the EFI fuel pump, but it's a generic Ford high pressure replacement pump that I bought at Autozone. I was concerned with two things when I was looking through their inventory for what would work best: pump pressure/volume and inlet/outlet fitting size. Notice that the pump is wrapped in a rubber sleeve. This rubber sleeve came new in the box with the new fuel pump. The clamp holding the fuel pump to the trunk floor is a chrome coil mount that I had laying around. The only time you can hear the electric fuel pump is for the brief instant between "Key On" and "IGN". It cannot be heard otherwise. Some other EFI guys mentioned that the pump may overheat/prematurely burnout with it being insulated like that. Like I said, the insulating rubber came with the pump and is designed in a stock application to wrap around it. I've had zero problems with anything in the fuel system.

Some early (EFI) Ford trucks had two fuel pumps, one in the tank and another in line so if the tank is low on fuel and your off-roading, the system won't go dry so to speak. Is this fuel pump your talking about one of these?
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This is true. A LOT of the classic Mustang EFI guys go this route designing their fuel delivery system. They either use an aftermarket tank with a built-in sump or design/build an externally mounted small "holding tank". With the home built systems there is usually a low pressure pump between the tank and the smaller (less than a gallon) "holding tank". The low pressure pump keeps the holding tank near full and the up-line high pressure pump draws fuel from the holding tank to supply the engine. This design is intended to prevent fuel starvation/uninterrupted fuel supply problems during hard cornering/braking/acceleration.

I initially planned to go this route, but figured I'd first try the simplest/cheapest method and pull the fuel straight from an OEM Ford tank to supply the engine. I'm glad that I did. The system works flawlessly.

Sometimes you can over-think an issue and make it more complicated than it needs to be. Will my system allow the car run to with only 1-2 gallons of remaining fuel sloshing around in the OEM tank? I don't know. The least amount of fuel I've ever let the tank get down to was probably around 3-4 gallons.
 
Where does one look for a aftermarket fuel tank with a sump built in. Sounds expensive compared to your approach. I can't understand the photo of your pump, tank and filter. The sender unit appears to be in the bottom of the tank instead of the lower front. Maybe I don't understand the angle the photo was taken at. Is your tank also special? The sender unit appears to be a Ron Morris item.
 
Where does one look for a aftermarket fuel tank with a sump built in.
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Tanks INC. and Fuel Safe should have sump tanks. Be prepared to be separated from a large chunk of change if you go this route.

I can't understand the photo of your pump, tank and filter. The sender unit appears to be in the bottom of the tank instead of the lower front. Maybe I don't understand the angle the photo was taken at. Is your tank also special? The sender unit appears to be a Ron Morris item.
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It's likely just the angle you're looking at. It would all make prefect sense if crawled under the car. OEM style aftermarket replacement 16 gal. fuel tank. Nothing special about it.

Ron Morris fuel sending unit with the fuel return nipple on it. Asid from the nipple, it's a stock replacement item. It may be easier/cheaper to drilla hole in a stock sending unit and sealing a nipple onto it than to pay RM's prices. I got it as part of a package deal otherwise I likely would have tried modifying an OEM sending unit.

The fuel pump is mounted to the trunk floors "transition pan". Here's a photo from a different angle (yes, this was before I rebuilt and detailed the Trac-Lok).

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Look in the StangFix Gallery and scroll down to my folder for more pictures. The body of my '66 rides on a custom one-piece boxed channel frame. It looks a little different than what your car will look like.
 
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I can give you some advice on what NOT to purchase. I bought the Summit universal EFI pump (I was being a cheap bastard so I got what I deserved). It has functioned flawlessly, but is loud as sh*t. Go another route - I'm thinking of popping for the Edelbrock pump, but it's pricey.

On another note, I used the drain plug hole for my return line and haven't had any problems with it - I also don't let my stock tank get below 1/4 for fear of uncovering the pick-up.

The whole process isn't that difficult, just takes some time. Think it through, and measure twice, cut once and you'll be there.
 
I got the elect. pump for a Ford F150 mid 80's model, the one that is mounted on the frame rail. Advance Auto has these for around $90 or so and it is very quiet, so quiet I can barely hear it when I turn the key to on and certainly can't hear it when the engine is running.
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Yep, I did the same thing on my '66. Everyone keeps talking about "loud noise" with electric fuel pumps..... what noise? The Ford stocker is very quiet and more than adequate. I'm running 30# injectors on my 347 and don't have any fuel delivery issues.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
...Everyone keeps talking about "loud noise" with electric fuel pumps..... what noise?...
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This thing is so loud when I was doing the cruise at Knott's this year, Johnpro thought it was an electric fan.
 
Thanks for the heads up on the Summit EFI pump, I have it marked in my catalog as the one I would buy. I will go back to the junk yard and see if that Bronco is still there and the pump is still under the seat where I hid it. I am planing to use the tank drain for the return line. but the EFI is waiting on the coin to buy a wiring harness since I don't have the patients to do my own and do it right. I'm thinking of using a RJM harness, the web site looks great! RJMINJECTIONTECH.COM . For now tho I'm still having fun trying to solve the stumble I have with my Holley 570 avenger, but my plugs look almost white, the idle screws do make a difference on the vac gauge. Next I'am going to remove the 1/2 insulator under the carb. Why?? Because the other day I got caught at a light for two changes and the temp got up to 195 (180 stat) and the stumble/hesitation seem to go away. Maybe it will make a difference maybe not. Info: T5 trans, manual choke, 5.0 Must. cam, 17" of vac. at idle, no mods to carb yet. I have noticed the fuel level in the bowls makes a difference. I thought mine was good, kooking in the sight glass, per Holley instructions but I read an old article from Mustang Magazine (now that's old) which said to remove the sight glass (a plug back then) and with the engine running the fuel should just "drip" out the hole. Of course engine shake adds a little more than a drip so be careful if you try it. I put a large rag under the hole before removing the sight glass. The soft plastic "glass" does not go back in easily like a steel bolt.
 
The wiring harness on craigs list is tempting but is in two pieces so probably not RJM's. Ford Motorsport sold two piece harnesses and they were about that price range but thanks for the heads up. KG
 
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