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Electric fan controller question.

The radiator probe would be less reliable.

Are you running an aftermarket intake? My performer had a plugged hole right behind the thermostat.
 
The last '66 I had used one in the thermostat housing...you can see it here.
unload062.jpg
 
i have a performer RPM intake there is a pluged hole in the thermostat housing and right after that. I guess i didnt see those. How reliable would it to put the probe there wouldnt it only read temp after the thermostat opened up at 180degrees?
 
Yep....worked great there. Thermostat opens, temps rises a bit, fan comes on, temp goes down as cool water reaches the thermostat, fan shuts off. The car ran a steady 180 if I remember correct...never had a over heat issue with it there.
 
I'm running a mechanical gauge in that spot. With a 180 t-stat I'll see a spike of 195-200 just after the t-stat opens Then back down to about 182-185. I'm also running the factory gauge in it's original location on the opposite side of the manifold. It never goes above about a third of the way up. With a 195 stat in place the factory gauge should read near center. I'm guessing incoming temp is 160ish?

So I'm basically measuring the temp coming in the engine at the factory gauge and out at the mechanical.
 
"Mr. Din" said:
How reliable would it to put the probe there wouldnt it only read temp after the thermostat opened up at 180degrees?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure where you'd set the controller so the fan is not on all the time though. If you don't turn the fan on until 180 you will run hot at idle. If you program it 150-160 it will be on all the time.

You might consider swapping them around and have the fan sensor on the inlet side so the fan can cycle like it should. Your temp gauge would run higher than it did before though, simply because it's now measuring out temp.

Running a two speed fan I'd have it come on low around 140 and high at 160.
 
If you have extra time and money, these are one of the best fan controllers available: http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm

They are PWM controlled, which adjusts the fan speed based on the engine temperature. If it is just barely over the point which the fan is needed, it will run at a slower speed to not only extend fan motor life (compared to running full blast all the time) but also reduce the draw on the electrical system. It too uses a radiator probe, but is superior to most aftermarket copper probes. Their FAQ has more info on the radiator probes: http://www.dccontrol.com/faq.htm
 
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