Electrolysis and Aluminum radiators

[tarafied1]

kb3 got me thinking about electrolysis and my new radiator. I have been reading articles and avoiding forum opinions or statements without facts or data. Still a little confused as I am not a chemist.
First I understand there are two types, basically the electrical system and earthen ground and second the chemical effects. In an article by Car Craft magazine they say:

the best water to use is soft water. Distilled water is not a good idea because distillation strips ions from the water. When it is introduced into the cooling system, the natural chemical-balance process will pull the ions from light metals such as aluminum or magnesium that are exposed to the water. This ion transfer greatly enhances the corrosion process called electrolysis. Soft water is treated with sodium chloride that replaces the lost ions and minimizes the electrolysis process.

This makes sense to me but I have always been told to use distilled water. I found an article by "Vehicle Labs" that says

Caused by several things:

Lack of maintenance from not changing the antifreeze on a regular basis
Chemical imbalance is caused by:
Not using distilled water.
Not having at lease a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water (pre-mixed is best).

I don't use 50/50 and I never use pre-mixed (your buying half water!)

several articles and sites do consistently describe how to measure the chemical electrolysis (or lack of it).

Simply attach the negative lead from your DVOM to the engine block or other known good grounding point. With the red positive lead, dip it into the coolant. Ensure that your DVOM is on the 2 volt scale.

If you measured zero or near zero, congratulations! You don't have electrolysis.
If you measured less than .1V, your cooling system should be below the activity threshold, no action required.
However, if you measured .3V or above, then keep reading because we have one more test to complete.

Disconnect your battery terminal and re-measure as you did in step number

The only inconstancy is that one article I read says not to use a digital multimeter but all the rest were accompanied by photos showing the read out with a digital multimeter.
So I checked mine. I got a reading of .05 so my 15% antifreeze with water wetter seams to be okay "chemically" and I used tap water not distilled water. I'm not a chemist but the ion things sounds legit. The argument is that the minerals in the water is what makes it conduct electricity but my readings were very low using tap water so I think I'm okay.

For the electrical part there seams to be some concern with grounding the actual heat exchanger. In fact several articles quoted from Ford service updates saying NOT to ground aluminum radiators and heater cores. The concern is that grounding the aluminum part creates a path for the current. However the stress of most articles is on the fact that all electrical systems be properly grounded. Some even suggested grounding the rear axle and transmission on cars with rubber isolated mounting points. Many articles also suggested taking the readings as you systematically turn on all electrical stuff such as wipers, blower fans, radio, brake lights, etc etc. If the reading jumps up with any of these systems then it isn't properly grounded.
I haven't specifically grounded the radiator but I have extra ground wires on stuff like the starter, headlight relays and so on.
We will see I guess

 

[B67FSTB]

I think there is not one solution for every car but alot different solution for many cars having trouble with electrolysis.
One thing to know is , how to measure or find out electrolysis.
Thanks for the info Craig.

 

[kb3]

Good info Craig.....if not a bit contradictory. I am going to continue to research this and test the voltage as your sources show. I am also going to keep a keen eye on the sacrificial anode cap and see just how fast it gets eaten up.

thanks for sharing!

 

[tarafied1]

your welcome guys. I think the anode is a good idea. I'm going to get one of those.
here are some of the links to stuff I've read
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0707 ... ewall.html
http://www.voltagedrop.biz/
http://www.ve-labs.net/electrolysis-101
http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/electrolysis.htm

Tsb 06-21-19 Heater Core Leakage And Electrolysis (information Only)

FORD:
1997-2002 Contour
1997-2007 Crown Victoria, Mustang, Taurus
2000-2007 Focus
2002-2005 Thunderbird
2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle
2006-2007 Fusion
1997-1999 F-250 Light Duty
1997-2003 Windstar
1997-2007 E-Series, Expedition, Explorer, F-150, F-53 Motorhome Chassis, F-Super Duty, Ranger
2000-2005 Excursion
2001-2003 Explorer Sport
2001-2007 Escape, Explorer Sport Trac
2004 F-150 Heritage
2004-2007 Freestar
2005-2007 Escape Hybrid
1999-2007 F-650, F-750LINCOLN:
1997-2002 Continental
1997-2007 Town Car
2000-2006 Lincoln LS
2006 Zephyr
2007 MKZ
1998-2007 Navigator
2002-2003 Blackwood
2003-2005 Aviator
2006-2007 Mark LTMERCURY:
1997-2002 Cougar, Mystique
1997-2005 Sable
1997-2007 Grand Marquis
2005-2007 Montego
2006-2007 Milan
1997-2002 Villager
1997-2007 Mountaineer
2005-2007 Mariner
2006-2007 Mariner Hybrid


This article supersedes TSB 01-15-6 to update the vehicle model years and Service Procedure. ISSUE:

The majority of repeat heater core leaks are due to high flow rate or use of poor quality coolant. However, electrolysis should also be checked, especially when repeat repairs have occurred.
ACTION:

If the heater core is leaking, review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant.
SERVICE PROCEDURE


1.Review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant:
1. If leaks are found on the inlet (or outlet) tubes entering /exiting the heater core, it is most likely due to due to high flow rate - replace the heater core and install a restrictor in the heater hose closest to the engine block, reference Workshop Manual, Section 412.
2. If leaks are found in the body of the heater core itself, and does not appear to be the result of physical damage like contact or puncture, check the coolant for possible electrolysis.

Testing For Electrolysis



Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery ground or a known good ground and suspend the positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in contact with the coolant but not touching any metal part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage reading on the old coolant in the engine block before addition to or replacement of. To keep more coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.

1. Determine whether coolant condition is acceptable.
1. Remove both cables from the battery and ensure they do not contact each other or the vehicle.
2. Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine ground and positive lead in the coolant.
NOTEOSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT FOR TESTING.
3. Check the voltage in the cooling system. If less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, reconnect battery cables and proceed to Step 2.
4. If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system thoroughly.
5. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
6. Reconnect battery cables.
7. Refill the system with appropriate Motorcraft® engine coolant.

2. Check for loose or missing grounds at static conditions.
1. Turn off all accessories. Turn ignition on but do not start engine.
2. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
3. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V on all grounds OK.
4. Any one greater than 0.4 V, check and clean ground cable connections.
5. Check accessories without using the on off switch on the vehicle instrument panel, use a jumper wire to ground.
6. Plug in engine block heater, if equipped, and test.
7. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
8. Unplug engine block heater, if equipped.

3. Check for loose, missing, or inadequate grounds.
1. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
2. Crank engine but do not start.
3. Monitor voltage while cranking. less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
4. If greater than 0.4 V, ground or repair starter.
5. Start engine and run at about 2000 rpm.
6. Turn on all accessories including those customer only uses occasionally such as CB radio, cell phone, etc.
7. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
8. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
9. If greater than 0.4 V, turn off one item at a time until V drops to less than or equal to 0.4 V. Repair ground to the accessory just identified.
10. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V
11. Turn the DVOM to AC volts.
12. Check for ANY AC voltage greater than 0.4.
13. If any AC voltage is present then try turning off each accessory one at a time including blower motor and any fan motors.
14. If AC voltage is still present then shut engine off and remove B+ from the alternator and tape it up then retest.
15. If voltage drop is gradual to less than or equal to 0.4 V, the ground straps may simply be overloaded by added accessories. Test by using heavy gauge jumper to ground. If indicated, install heavier gauge ground strap(s) and recheck.
NOTE:If vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, be sure they cycle during this testing and monitor voltage when they are on and when off.

CAUTION: DO NOT GROUND HEATER CORE. IF THE HEATER CORE IS GROUNDED, YOU HAVE PROVIDED THE ELECTROLOSIS A PATH THROUGH THE HEATER CORE. THIS WOULD CAUSE THE HEATER CORE TO BECOME AN ANODE OR RECEIVER AND IT WOULD PROMOTE THE ELECTROLOSIS, OR ANY STRAY VOLTAGE TO USE THE COOLANT AS THE GROUND PATH.

4. Refill the engine cooling system, reference Workshop Manual, Section 303-03.

NOTE: IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.

WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage