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Engine Debate !?

G

Gi-Ti-Up

New Member
I Have a personal problem?!! I have a '67 289 2V Coupe that will need rebuilding, regardless, when I finish the rest of the car. I bought the car new ( yes, first owner) and I don't know if I should rebuild the original engine block or consider a rebuild kit from PAW - Performance Automotive Warehouse. ( a 302 most likely)

I have rebuilt the engine before so I'm not "threatened" by taking on this challenge! BUT ......... I am bothered by not using the original block, even though I probably will never enter a concours event. What would the Stangfix "audience" suggest/comment? Cheers, Bill Palmer

P.S. any dealings with PAW that you could comment on?
 
I would assume it would depend on how you wanted to build the engine. If you are staying stock I would rebuild the 289. If it is still strong, for its years, that is.

If the 289 is about toast, you want a newer style, or you are going to really BUILD an engine, then you will need to weigh the costs of parts vs PAW.

Personaly, if I had unlimited funds and the time, I would build it myself. But I love to get dirty :)
 
Of course, the decision is yours, finding a roller 302 complete is an easy way to convert. I didn't own my car from original, just bought it 3yrs. ago but I decided to keep the original 289 and stroke it to 333ci for more fun out of the stock block. I see so few '65-'70 cars at local shows or cruise ins that have their original engine. A majority of the cars have roller 302's wth FI so it's very obvious. I like having the original block still in my car even though I didn't go stock or concours it still keeps the car complete to me.

Haven't dealt with PAW, looked at their parts alot and read a lot of positive posts per their price vs. quality though.
In the end the decision is yours,
Jon
 
Any engine builder will basically ask you 2 questions:

1. What are your plans for the car? i.e. how will it be driven?
2. How much do you want to spend?

Since your car isn't rare optioned, there is no harm in ditching the original engine and going with something aftermarket, you wont be hurting the value of the car. I would however hold on to the original engine for the sake of being able to say you still have it should you ever want to sell the car in the future and the buyer wants it.
 
My $.02....

Since you've been driving this car around for the last 40+ years with it's little ole stock 2V 289, why not shelve the original engine and "wake the car up" for a few years by installing a more performance orientated motor? Have some fun with the car with a more potent engine.
 
My question is last time you rebuilt it did you have to bore it? Maybe 30 over?

I've heard that when you bore them much over 40 over it starts causing "issues". Never tested the theory myself though. When I did mine last year I had a local guy build me a performance minded 302 (guess it's technically a 306)

Just something to consider.
 
OP, another option to consider when costing out the various scenarios is the X302 crate engine. Drop-in solution with a warranty. If I was doing a normal 'driver' car, I'd take a hard look at something like that, and I'm a machinist. Minimal downtime, few extra parts required, predictable performance.

Good luck...
 
when I rebuilt the 429 I stuffed in my 67 about 11 years ago, I bought a PAW kit with rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, etc. I didn't use their pistons. I have TRW Forged pistons but I did use a cam, lifters springs and timing chain set from PAW. The short block remains untouched but I have swapped the intake, valve covers and headers since then so the gaskets have been replaced. I have no complaints about the quality and the price was pretty good. As for for original 289 or not... well my 289 is long gone!
 
on a another note, I am rebuilding a 68 302 for my buddy's 67 Ranchero. He wants it stock. The shop I had hot tank it, replace the cam bearings and bore the block as well as a valve job also sold me a "kit" with pistons, rings, bearings, cam, lifters, timing chain set, oil pump all the gaskets and freeze plugs. The total bill for EVERYthing including the labor to put the new pistons on the original rods was just over $1000. It's hard to beat that.
 
I registered on here a while back, but I haven't been here much, as I just have too many hobbies. I thought I would start participating a bit, because that is really one thing that helps make a forum great. I find myself in a similar position. I am no prude about changing stuff on my car, but it can be a tough call. Every poster has made some valid points to consider. If I just wanted a snappy street motor, I would consider overhauling the original. On the other hand, If I were gonna really run it hard, do some racing, etc., then I would probably preserve the original engine, and build/buy a separate engine. That way, you could always reinstall the original later if you changed your mind. It would be tough for me to get rid of the original engine, but it wouldn't bother me one bit to put it in storage. As for originallity, I used to have Vettes, and one thing that really turned me off was people thinking that they had to do shoddy work on their car just because they were assembled that way originally. I just don't see the wisdom of spending weeks blocking every panel on a car to a level of perfection far beyond what it was originally, only to overspray areas or leave primer showing because thats how it was originally. Thats fine if its what the owner wants, but for me, thats taking originallity too far. I imagine the concours Mustang crowd are probably similar to the Vette people in that regard. I can certainly respect an original car, but, I will be building my car to suit my own tastes. Its gonna be a bit easier for me, though. I didn't purchase my car new; its already had its color changed (not for the better); someone removed the auto and put in a toploader 4-speed. I haven't checked, but I believe my engine to be original. I'm either gonna use it or save it just in case.
 
A comment on the 60 over deal. Bought a fairly fresh rebuilt 66 289 when owner totaled car. Bought the engine, heard it run and it looked good-took a chance. But, right away, it blew a head gasket so we changed both and that was the end of that. But there, on each piston was a ominous .060. Buttoned it up and drove car 14,000 miles give or take, before selling. It never ran hot with a 180 thermostat with AC,etc. or did anything out of the ordinary. But I still think that it's a crap shoot. Wouldn't have bought had I known.
 
I think I'm done rebuilding engines for any kind of performance. Next time I remove an engine and want something snappy to drive a Ford Racing product is going back in. You can't beat the prices for an off the shelf product. Could technically do it cheaper, but their engines are engineered and proven to make a certain spec.
 
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