• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Engine Oil

AzPete

AzPete

Well-Known Member
The engine in my '66 now has 800+ miles and needs an oil change. Randy and I discussed it and are kind of in the middle on things. Engine is from an '80 Ford new rebuild with a non roller cam. Heads are the newer style using the small spark plug socket. Do I need an oil with zink or should this be ok with the normal dino oil. I normally run Castrol 10w30 or so. What's the ideas out there?
 
Everybody has a different opinion Pete, here's mine: Run whatever oil you want, or feel is appropriate for you engine...then use a bottle of break in lube from Comp Cams or whoever. Or, use an expensive oil like Mobil 1 15W-50, Royal Purple, etc that has the proper amount of wear agents. Oil is cheap compared to wiping a cam lobe. To me, this is just a no-brainer. Here is an article from Comp Cams:

http://www.compcams.com/Base/pdf/FlatTappetCamTechBulletin.pdf
 
Pete doesn't think my advice of not using any oil is worth listening to.... ~???
 
"Sluggo" said:
"Midlife" said:
Pete doesn't think my advice of not using any oil is worth listening to.... ~???
Click to expand...
As opposed to any of your other advice?
Click to expand...

He seems to like my taste in beers...

Back to the engine oil quandary. I don't know what to believe, but it seems to me that using SL grade motor oil with the additional zinc cannot harm the engine, but it is impossible to find anymore. What's left out there with adequate zinc are either expensive racing oils, some synthetic oils, or oils for diesel applications (e.g. RotellaT). I've used the latter for the past year, about 1500 miles, and it still looks like honey on the dipstick...nice and clean. Is it worth taking a chance of ruining an engine for a lousy $25 in oil choice? It's even less than $25 difference between moderate zinc and almost no-zinc oils. Personally, I'm not taking the chance until more info comes out one way or another.

Pete made the argument that the removal of zinc is because of catalytic converters, and his engine dates from 1982. Fair enough, but it still is a flat tappet cam, and that's where the (supposed) problem lies.
 
From all the reading, I will most likely go with the RotellaT and start running diesel in the car. lol
 
Remember guys, Rotella T was redesigned when ultra low sulfur diesel hit the streets recently and the zinc content is way down. It's now not good enough. You cannot buy CI-4 Rotella T anymore, just the Greenpeace CJ-4 crap.
 
Well, there's STP Red, and ZDDPPlus (available from Eastwood). Pete: you wanna go in on an order with Eastwood? I need to change my oil pretty soon as well.
 
I will let you know the first of the week. May have a local able to get it in.

From what I read, either there is a whole bunch of the ZDDPlus being sold or there is not as many people actually using it as one would think. Local stores/shops don't even know it exists or only recommend for initial break in. Hmmm. Ask stores about oil with zinc and they say no-one else asks about it. From the sounds of the comments, I tend to believe them.

On to the search for the truth.....lol....or something close.....or at least more reading http://www.zddplus.com/ & http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_0802_pontiac_performance_engine_oil/comp_cams.html.
 
I'm using good ole Pennsoil with STP red additive. My brother had been using Castro's syntech in the GTO which was demanded by the engine builder. I will probably follow suit when I get a new engine for Shag.
 
Royal Purple. Use the regular 5W-20 in newer engines with good bearing clearances or, if you are a dinosaur oil refugee, use the 10W-30. Change the filter at 5000 miles and top off the oil. Do a full change at 8000 to 10,000 miles.

We use it in everything. From eight-second 512" Thunderbird to my 10 second daily driven twin turbo '07 Mustang, all the daily drivers, and even the damn lawnmowers. Haven't had one single oil related failure in over 10 years of racing and street cars.
 
Royal Purple and Redline both have adequate amounts of ZDDP, as does Mobil 1 20W50 iirc. Most other Mobil 1 oils are API certified and have a fairly low Zinc content.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top