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Engine teasers

Jonk67

Jonk67

Well-Known Member
Thought I'd post a few pics of my 289 stroked to 333ci sitting on the stand. Got my MAC headers back from being baked today and put them on for a test fit and pics for a member on AFM that asked. I started getting worried, I forgot that the left side spark plugs point to the rear and the right side point to the front, thought I had 2 left heads....

Trying to hide roller rockers under these old school CalCustom VC's, about to take out the baffles, use some putty to check clearance and make some new low clearance baffles. The MAC headers are supposed to fit my '67 PS car w/o a drop bracket. When I get a chance I'm going to mount the AOD with the engine on a hoist and hope that I can make the headers fit with the AOD also.

Ignore the stock crappy looking oilpan, I've got an 8qt. Canton to go on once painted but the stock pan was good for checking ground clearance, the lowest pipe is level with the lowest drain point of the stock pan so I don't think they'll hang low or scrape.
Enjoy,
Jon
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if you need a test vehicle for that we can put it in mine for a while :vic. any projections as to what hp you will be churning out?
 
I'll have to think about that Steve, your car could be my 'break in' vehicle :)?
Once on the road I plan to get it to a dyno/tune to have some numbers. I'm only guessing 350-400fwhp but will be happy with it regardless I'm sure compared to the 150-200 stock that it went to the 1/8mi. in '08 with....

Thanks for the complements, I'll take another pic when the oil pan is painted/on along with wp, carb. etc. to give a better finished procuct idea. The Weiand intake was rough alum. and the AFR's were rough on sides, polished in front so it was too many different surfaces and colors for me so I just went Ford blue to 'look' stockish to the average cruisin. The shiny demon carb and 'distressed' VC should be the only 'bling' on the engine, trying to stay as low-key as I can. Will also attempt to get every wire and hose off the front of the engine I can for a cleaned up look.
Jon
 
I love it! I had my engine painted similarly before I swapped on a set of Trick Flow heads. I loved being able to open the hood and look at an engine that appeared mostly stock but still put out 300+hp.
 
:pbj Looking pretty sweet! Nothing better than fresh Ford blue engine. I like the valve covers.
 
"jonward786" said:
ive never been a fan of the "paint everything in sight blue" thing, but it looks nice and clean
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Thanks again for the complements, and I know what you mean jonward, I didn't want it to look like the entire engine was dipped in blue but I also didn't want 4-5 different colors/surfaces all over. The Canton pan will be black so that will break the blue up a little too. I'm not a fan of chrome so I'm hoping to stick to blue/black/alum. silver as the 3 basic colors in the engine bay.
Man I'm itching to start this puppy.
Jon
 
i hear ya, i too do not like chrome anywhere on an engine (except maybe the air cleaner top). i love the look of bare aluminum, so when my engine gets a rebuild in the future the only thing ill paint is the block, and leave the intake, heads, water pump, timing cover and VCs all that beautiful aluminum color, and maybe throw a coat of clear on them.
 
Very exciting. I absolutely love the first time you start an engine that you put together yourself. And the next time too. And the next. Heck, after 100,000 miles I still loved the fact that something I built myself still ran.

On the VC's with roller rockers, I used a felpro gasket that was basically a double cork layer with a metal plate in the middle, and I pulled the baffles out, bent them out of the way, then put them back. The baffles on mine were held in with pins that were hammered in and had a sort of self tapping spiral to them, but not really threads. Once I pulled them out, they didn't hold trying to reuse them so I drilled out the holes a little bit, tapped them, and used short #6 or #8 bolts.

Now that I think of it, I can't remember if I used locktite to hold those little bolts in. DOH! Man I hope I did...
 
Thanks Sam, wish I could say I built it myself but didn't have the time or patience so I sent the empty block w/heads, intake, etc. to a local macine shop with a good rep. and spoke at length with the owner about my build. I've got the steel reinforced FP VC gaskets too and my baffles are already held in by screws so it's just checking clearance and cutting/bending new baffles, don't think I'll have any problems.

Rick, it's the Weiand Stealth 8020 dual plane high rise, supposed to be good for idle to 6800RPM which should be a pretty good match for my CC XE262 and AFR 165's, may wind to 6K or 6200 to shift, won't know until I dyno it and see where it drops off at but have read the that the 262 will climb past 6K even though it's rated to 5600rpm. It worked well even on the stock 289. It's port matched to the AFR's also. It fits under my stock hood with a 1/2" phenolic spacer, Demon Jr. and drop base air cleaner.

I'm debating on cutting a notch in the dual plane splitter below the carb like the Edel. RPM's, I guess it's supposed to equalize the L/R banks? I may start a topic on that unless someone knows?

Thanks, Jon
 
Doesn't the spacer do the same thing as cutting the divider - ie, open up a space that allows airflow between banks?
 
"apollard" said:
Doesn't the spacer do the same thing as cutting the divider - ie, open up a space that allows airflow between banks?
Click to expand...

I'll have to look at my spacer and see if it's and open or 4 hole spacer, didn't think of that. If it's open I guess it would serve the same purpose but if it's a 4 hole it would still block it.
Jon
 
You were getting an aod tranny in the other thread and it may not work with the long tube hedders. You need to do some measurements. I had to ditch mine on the '66 with the 5.0 HO and AOD tranny. Good luck and hope they fit.
 
"gwstang" said:
You were getting an aod tranny in the other thread and it may not work with the long tube hedders. You need to do some measurements. I had to ditch mine on the '66 with the 5.0 HO and AOD tranny. Good luck and hope they fit.
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Yes, I've had the AOD sitting in the garage for >a year. I hope to be able to test fit it to the engine on an engine hoist and resting on a support. Once the engine/AOD are mated I'll try fitting the headers also as a test.

If the collector tubes area is too close together - what are my options? heat/bend the headers? or does someone make 'spacer blocks' to go between the heads/headers to hold them out a min. amount, like a solid alum. block to go between the headers/ head I'm thinking, maybe angled? Could of sworn I've heard of these. I'd hate to start over with different shorter headers, I'd have to go shorties due to my PS as I don't want to use a drop bracket.
Jon
 
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