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Engine to engine stand

A

abrahamfh

Active Member
Now that we have a thread that covers how to choose the right engine stand for your specific application. I figured I would start a new topic in regards to things to be considered when mounting the engine to the stand and ask some questions of my own. I figured the more info on here the better for other newbs such as myself.

My scenario has to do with a HF floating style engine stand that Craig is letting me borrow and a 69 351W.

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The bolts required for stand to block are 7/16-14.

The bolt grade is all about personal preference, but I am choosing to be overkill with Grade 8 bolts.

Length is the tricky part, I went down to my local Ace hardware and purchased two bolts to test fit. I purchased a 2.5" and a 3" bolt to see which would fit the best. I first tried the 3" bolt and there was just under a 1/4" gap caused by the bolt being too long. I then tried the 2.5" long bolt and was very concerned about the bolt not threading in enough for me to be comfortable with. The dilemma is that a 2-3/4" long bolt would probably be perfect for the job but I can't find any.

The possible solution, (I don't know how safe this is, but if anyone finds the following not to be safe please let me know) I went back to the local Ace hardware during my lunch and purchased 3 grade 8 washers for each of the 4 bolts, two are going to be placed on the bolts before going through the stand and then another washer will go between the stand and the block. While Jeff's engine hoist is over at my place on May 1st its getting lifted to its new home in the sky and I hope my plan works.

A question for you all, I would prefer the arms of the engine stand to be bolted to the bottom two holes of the block, but they wont reach. Are the current bolt locations okay where they are?

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"abrahamfh" said:
The possible solution, (I don't know how safe this is, but if anyone finds the following not to be safe please let me know) I went back to the local Ace hardware during my lunch and purchased 3 grade 8 washers for each of the 4 bolts, two are going to be placed on the bolts before going through the stand and then another washer will go between the stand and the block. While Jeff's engine hoist is over at my place on May 1st its getting lifted to its new home in the sky and I hope my plan works.

A question for you all, I would prefer the arms of the engine stand to be bolted to the bottom two holes of the block, but they wont reach. Are the current bolt locations okay where they are?
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I used washers as spacers also - placed them between the bolt head and the engine stand, as I felt that a better solution.

You've got the engine plate upside down. Rotate it 180 degrees, and the arms will reach the outside holes.
 
I just went out and checked the 351W block I have on the engine stand. I have the piece that bolts to the engine rotated 180°, so that the long vertical holes are at the top.
 
"66gt350" said:
I just went out and checked the 351W block I have on the engine stand. I have the piece that bolts to the engine rotated 180°, so that the long vertical holes are at the top.
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+1 I've got a 302 on my stand and it's the same.
 
I'd take the easy route and turn the engine upside down first instead of the lighter bracker :hom

Jon
 
What they said!

I have washers on my grade 8 bolts too, works fine.
 
Like others, rotate the bracket abe. My bolts were easily a half inch long. I solved that with old acorn lug nuts, so you will be fine with washers. You could always take your grinder and cut a couple threads off. But thats just more work then its worth.
 
Thanks everyone, I didn't even think of turning the plate 180 degrees, I will do that as soon as I get back to NorCAL. Glad to hear the washers should be okay, like you mentioned lethal, cutting the bolts are a little more work then I would like to do.
 
If Craig loaned you the engine stand.... where are the bolts that he used?

It's frustrating to have your engine dangling from a hoist and then have to scrounge around for the bolts to secure it to the engine stand. Years ago after NOT being able to find the darn bolts..... I swore that never again would I misplace them. I zip-tied a ziplock bag to the engine stand's rear mounting plate and that's where the bolts/washers reside when they're not in use. On the rare occasion that I've had an engine requiring a different bolt/thread size on the stand, when the engine comes off the stand I throw those bolts into the bag also. It makes it much easier for the next time to have the proper bolt(s) already in the bag.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
If Craig loaned you the engine stand.... where are the bolts that he used?

It's frustrating to have your engine dangling from a hoist and then have to scrounge around for the bolts to secure it to the engine stand. Years ago after NOT being able to find the darn bolts..... I swore that never again would I misplace them. I zip-tied a ziplock bag to the engine stand's rear mounting plate and that's where the bolts/washers reside when they're not in use. On the rare occasion that I've had an engine requiring a different bolt/thread size on the stand, when the engine comes off the stand I throw those bolts into the bag also. It makes it much easier for the next time to have the proper bolt(s) already in the bag.
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A most excellent idea!!!
 
That really is a great idea Dave, it does always suck when you can't find the right tools for the job. BLAW!

After I got home from the flight back from SoCal lastnight, I went straight to the garage and I flipped the backing plate as previously suggested and "kachow", it worked exactly the way I was hoping. I still need to straighten some of the arms a bit and tighten everything down.

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I took apollard's suggestion and just put the bolt through the washers first and then through the backing plate and I am very comfortable with the way it seems to be holding up.

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Sorry about the quality, photographs provided by the iPhone.
Forgot my camera with my son down in SoCal.
 
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I am very comfortable with the way it seems to be holding up.
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It'll be fine. If this is your first time using an engine stand you may be uncomfortable with how the stand looks when it's supporting the weight of a fully dressed engine.... it'll usually "sag" a bit at the front of the engine. Don't worry, this is normal unless you have a higher quality engine stand. The "sag" will make rotating the engine more difficult, but not impossible.
 
Thanks for the heads up Dave, I will try not to think too much of it. I was thinking about maybe taking a block of wood, carving the radius of one of the pulleys on the end to maybe help support the front a little. I don't think I will have to, but it was a idea.
 
No need to worry or add a block to the front..............although, it did come from Craig, so.............................
 
"daveSanborn" said:
If Craig loaned you the engine stand.... where are the bolts that he used?

It's frustrating to have your engine dangling from a hoist and then have to scrounge around for the bolts to secure it to the engine stand. Years ago after NOT being able to find the darn bolts..... I swore that never again would I misplace them. I zip-tied a ziplock bag to the engine stand's rear mounting plate and that's where the bolts/washers reside when they're not in use. On the rare occasion that I've had an engine requiring a different bolt/thread size on the stand, when the engine comes off the stand I throw those bolts into the bag also. It makes it much easier for the next time to have the proper bolt(s) already in the bag.
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A). I gave him the engine stand. Not loaned it.

B). It was a stand that I never used so no bolts or washers came with it.

C). There would have been no way that we would have started this engine pull unless we were convinced that Abe had everything ready to go.
 
I wasn't sure on the bolt lenght last weekend when I pulled my engine. I ended up measuring the depth on the bellhousing bolts and adding the lenght of the bracket sleeve on the engine stand. I'm pretty sure I bought 7/16 14 2-1/2 bolts with 1 washer on each.

Seems to be holding fine. I did get a nice surprise to find a TCI sticker on the top of the transmission.
 
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