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Finding #1 TDC for dizzy drop

cmayna

cmayna

DILLIGARA?
Donator
It's been way too long. Remind me the easiest way to find TDC for #1 so I can drop in the MSD dizzy. I was going to stick a small wire down into plug hole#1 so it was touching the piston. Crank the engine over by hand until #1 piston is at the very top?
 
"cmayna" said:
It's been way too long. Remind me the easiest way to find TDC for #1 so I can drop in the MSD dizzy. I was going to stick a small wire down into plug hole#1 so it was touching the piston. Crank the engine over by hand until #1 piston is at the very top?
Click to expand...

That's how I do it. While not the most accurate method, it's close enough for a dizzy setting.
 
Make sure both valves are closed so you are on a compression stroke. I like using a plastic straw to put into the plug hole to follow the piston.

I forgot, be sure to check the timing marks for proper positioning also.
 
Similar to Pete, I used a pencil with the eraser on the piston. Put all plugs in except #1 and put your finger over the plug hole. Find the compression stroke and then locate TDC.
 
I still need to prime the oil throughout the motor before I settle in the Dizzy so for now it's more of a mental awakening of items I need to do address in the near future. Thanks you guys.
 
I use a rag in the #1 spark plug hole and when the engine puffs it out you are at TDC. I double check the timing mark to make sure.

Mel
 
Craig, I'm not sure if the Clevor is the same as the Windsor, but I have a special one piece tool that connects to your drill to spin the oil pump on a Windsor. Personally, I don't like the idea of taping a socket to an extension, because there is the remote possibility the socket could separate and drop into the engine.

If you're interested, you're welcome to borrow it.
 
Agreed that the tool is the ideal method. Yes, the Windsor and Cleve oil pump shafts should have the same design/diameter.
 
Dave,
Yes, oddly and surprisingly enough, I do remember the counter closewise. Michael, I think I have something that will work but if not, I'll come knocking on your door, or if you happen to be over on the peninsula.......
 
In my engine class eons ago, I used a long extension 1/4 drive attached to a quick handle you know the kind that used to be found on old fashioned hand drills, and a socket. I used permatec gasket sealer to hold the socket in place. Worked like a charm.

A drill would have been nice to use. The old fart that taught the class was very old school and we seemed to do everything the hard way. I must admit we learned how to do the machining and such the right way! The engines we did were very high quality if nothing else.

Mel
 
Craig, are you not trusting your timing marks? The way I do it is to bump the engine with a remote starter, with my thumb in the #1 plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Then with a ratchet on the dampner bolt (15/16" socket if the bolt is stock) line the timing marks up to what you want the initial to be (I'd shoot for between 6 and 10 degrees). Mark your distributor as to where the number 1 wire will be, and drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing at the mark.

Doing it this way, the engine will fire immediately 9 out of 10 times, without any other f'n with it.
 
"johnpro" said:
Craig, are you not trusting your timing marks? The way I do it is to bump the engine with a remote starter, with my thumb in the #1 plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Then with a ratchet on the dampner bolt (15/16" socket if the bolt is stock) line the timing marks up to what you want the initial to be (I'd shoot for between 6 and 10 degrees). Mark your distributor as to where the number 1 wire will be, and drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing at the mark.

Doing it this way, the engine will fire immediately 9 out of 10 times, without any other f'n with it.
Click to expand...


Yep, I agree.
 
John,
It's not that I don't trust the timing marks. It's the fact that the motor has been turned by hand and there is no dizzy in place, so I need to establish a decent starting point. Yes I will do as everyone has instructed and turn until I start to feel compression on #1.
 
"cmayna" said:
John,
It's not that I don't trust the timing marks. It's the fact that the motor has been turned by hand and there is no dizzy in place, so I need to establish a decent starting point. Yes I will do as everyone has instructed and turn until I start to feel compression on #1.
Click to expand...

So find compression stroke, then line up the timing marks. That's your "decent starting point". Don't make it harder than it is.

Remember, the whole point of the timing marks is to tell you the relationship of the #1 piston to TDC, which is what you're asking how to find.
 
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