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Fixing an Intake Leak - A Few Questions

67TXStang

Member
I installed a Wieand Stealth intake three months ago. I used the cork end seals and oil leaked from the back one. I removed the intake tonight with the intent to replace the intake gasket and have a few questions.

1) The gaseket is a FelPro 1250. It still looks to be in great shape. I purchased a replacement for $30 (a ripoff but I wanted to fix it this weekend). Should I be able to reuse the old one? I only used gasket sealer on the head side so the side facing the intake looks fine.

2) Once I removed the intake, I could see a little discoloration in the paint around the water passages on the head. Should I seal around the water passages with something or should the gasket be enough. There was never any water it just seems to be enough to make the blue paint a pale color?

3) Any other tips so I don't have to do this again?
 
Trash the cork end seals, and use a thick bead of gasket sealer. I usually put gasket sealer around the water passages too. I'd try to reuse the old gaskets if they look okay.
 
New gaskets to get good seal

Use rtv as end sealer, no cork at all. Lay bead, let it set, install.

Use a bit of sealer around water jackets.

Use/make guide bolts to assist in placing intake straight on to the engine
 
Thanks for the quick responses.

Do you use a particular type sealer around the water passages? Last time I used Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant on the head side of the gasket. I did not use anything on the intake side. Should I use the same, RTV, or is there something better suited for the purpose?
 
I'd use a thin smear of Ultra Black on each side of the gasket around the water ports. Always works well for me.

I've never had good luck reusing intake gaskets, though. At least not the 1250's, and not with an aluminum intake.
 
I could see a little discoloration in the paint around the water passages on the head.....


Sorry for being late with the response, but there shouldn't be any paint on the cylinder head in this area. It should be stripped clean to bare metal.
 
Thanks Dave. The paint on the head is just on the portion which is visible when the intake is installed. I installed the intake with the new gasket last night. I think it was best that I used the new gasket. It did not seem the old one was sealed very good along the bottom on one side.

I cleaned the head surface and intake with Acetone as much as possible. I then put gasket sealer on the gasket and on the head. After a few minutes I installed those and put a 1/4" bead of RTV on each end overlapping the gaskets on the sides. I tightened everything to Weiand spec (25ft/lbs on inner 8 and 15 ft/lbs on outer four).

I decided to let it dry overnight and plan to put it back together and start it tonight. I'll then check the bolts again to ensure they are still tightened to spec.
 
You need to let the RTV set up for a few minutes before installing the heads to obtain a good seal. Otherwise, you'll just squish everything out once you torque the intake down. Then let it sit for 24 hours and then re-torque.
 
"Midlife" said:
You need to let the RTV set up for a few minutes before installing the heads to obtain a good seal. Otherwise, you'll just squish everything out once you torque the intake down. Then let it sit for 24 hours and then re-torque.

What he said. Letting it setup is probably the most important, most often missed step.
 
I let the RTV and gasket sealer setup for about 10 minutes. I then installed the intake. I left it alone for an hour and then double checked each bolt was tightened appropriately.

I waited 24 hours to start the car and started it up a few minutes ago. I let it run to get up to operating temperature, set the idle RPM, confirmed timing, and then turned off the engine. I'll check each bolt to ensure everything is stilled tightened appropriately once the engine cools.

It seems I still have a problem setting the idle mixture. I won't post the issue here since it is inanother post. If anyone has ideas to fix it I would appreciate it.
 
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