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Flowtech

They will bolt up fine. Not sure about the fit in your car as I am not familiar with that set. Even when they say it is for a certain model/year car and engine combo you'll often find you need to "massage" a pipe or two.
 
Ok so I was told the bolts from older 302s are the same as 1990 ones so these would fit. I'm just concerned how tight of a fit they would be. The ones I removed there was barely any room between them and the shock towers.

I'd be getting these headers for $100 and he's going to knock 50% off of ceramic coating so $210 for headers and have him coat them. I still have to double check with hubby, and take a look at my mustang budget. Cowl vent takes priority right now.

What kind of quality are Flowtechs? I've never heard of them and neither has hubby. I've only heard about Hookers and Headmans.
 
I've never had Flowtechs so I can't fairly assess their quality but the picture makes them look like pretty standard fare.

Don't go having anything coated until you have them installed/fit. All headers are tight in an early mustang and will probably need at least a hammer ping here or there. Then, wait until after you have your engine broken in. First run engines generate some serious heat and can damage coatings. It's more work to install/uninstall/install but your headers will look so much better over the long haul if you do it this way.
 
Flowtech long tubes is what was on the car I just sold. The car was lowered a bit but the headers hung so low below the frame rails that I could not drive over a coke can laying down without dragging it. The engine sat normal in the engine bay....not lowered. I also had a leak at the left rear I had issues getting to seal. (Had that leak a bit when I got the car too).
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"AzPete" said:
Flowtech long tubes is what was on the car I just sold. The car was lowered a bit but the headers hung so low below the frame rails that I could not drive over a coke can laying down without dragging it. The engine sat normal in the engine bay....not lowered. I also had a leak at the left rear I had issues getting to seal. (Had that leak a bit when I got the car too).
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Yikes! Maybe those won't be the best choice then for Gert. Around town, there are some pretty decent dips in roads and my poor Sebring takes a beating because it's so low. Last thing I want is something on Gert to be getting messed up going over bumps and dips in the roads.
 
You should probably go with "shorties" instead of long tubes anyway. You'll have better luck with ground clearance. Unless you are going to be seriously racing the car the benefit of long tube headers isn't worth it.
 
You have some time to think about exhaust~ shop, but you have plenty to do for now. Shorties didn't work with my Flaming river rack n pinion. I had to have hedder specifically for FR rack; ching ching. but my coated hedder still look great!
 
"Horseplay" said:
You should probably go with "shorties" instead of long tubes anyway. You'll have better luck with ground clearance. Unless you are going to be seriously racing the car the benefit of long tube headers isn't worth it.
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No serious racing. Just the occasional car club trip to the track every now and then is all. :pbj

As for ground clearance... looking at my current headers, they look to be long tube ones (no clue what kind though!) and I didn't have any issues going over bumps and dips with them. Thats with 1" drop springs in the front. I still need to do the shelby drop though, and replace the leaf springs. So not sure how much lower Gert will end up being after that.
 
"Horseplay" said:
I've never had Flowtechs so I can't fairly assess their quality but the picture makes them look like pretty standard fare.

Don't go having anything coated until you have them installed/fit. All headers are tight in an early mustang and will probably need at least a hammer ping here or there. Then, wait until after you have your engine broken in. First run engines generate some serious heat and can damage coatings. It's more work to install/uninstall/install but your headers will look so much better over the long haul if you do it this way.
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I disagree. My headers by Doug fit perfect and came coated. No dings nothing. My hookers in the 67 fit fine no dings nothing.

I can not comment on these in the topic because I am not familiar with them.

I got some free ceramic coated shorties I was told would work for a 289/302 Mustang and yes they will work fine, but will not in a million years fit an early Mustang with shock towers.

I keep them around just in case I do a SMF project like a truck or ever get to do the Triumph project.

So the moral to this story is make sure they fit first and do the other work first. There will be other deals and if not buy some quality headers that fit and will sound like you want later when the engine is ready to put in.

Mel
 
Hey Mel,

She's looking at $100-$200 headers here. Doug's and Hookers are quite a bit higher end so yeah, they probably do fit just a bit better. With some of the cheaper brands, you can get three "exact" sets at the same time and find they all fit a bit different. It's the old "you get what you pay for" deal.

The whole point I wanted to make was to test fit first. Save the coatings for later.

Those shorties you have are no doubt for a late model mustang with a 302. Shorties made for a SBF in an early 'stang fit just fine.
 
I just replaced a set of FlowTech long tubes on a customers 71 Mustang due to the coating flaking off. They were probably on the car for 6 years but barely driven and really babied. I replaced them with another set of FlowTechs, the new ones seem cheaper than the older ones and the fit was nothing too impressive.
 
I'm going to wait on any headers. I know I'm going to get some eventually, but I want to get Gert together first, suspension, shelby drop, etc and see how low she sits before I pick longs or shortys.
 
You won't be able to tell the true stance of the vehicle until you install the engine and drive at least a few miles to let the suspension settle. You also have to have the engine installed because of the weight dramatically affects how high the front (and rear) end sits/squats.
 
If I hadn't had such a pretty motor, and just a "stock" motor, I think I would have just soon had stock exhaust manifolds. My stang doesn't sit that low and I have to be really careful over speedbumps. actually nice cleaned up, coated stock exhaust looks pretty good imo. Going least expensive, you'll probably still will spend 150-250 for lesser expensive headers, then 350-450 on collectors back to the tailpipe at a local muffler shop. My long tube headers were specific to the flaming river ps rack n pinion (600.oo), I never told Gary! The shorty headers I started with were so nice looking, only 275 coated, but clashed with the rack! : (
Reminds me of fixing up a home, if you figure on paper a guessimation for materials and such, you can be sure the finished product to be doubled or more, but in restoration of cars, that ideaology doesn't necessarily apply~ you can pretty much triple or quadruple your beginning estimates! lol Intentions are to do it least expensive as possible; kind of a rude awakening if on a budget. Guess that's why people give up on project cars!
 
I put a set of flowtech's on the 68 and not only was the fit nice they didn't hang real low eather.
But one thing I did really like about the design and pipe location was I can change the starter without removing them. :thu
 
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