General Wiring Questions?????

[Johnny M]

What have you guys done for running power to the doors for central locking? On the passenger side there is a hole in the end of the door and another on the outside of the upper kick panel which i am guessing is for a loom?

There are no holes on the driver side door/kick panel. time to get the drill out?

I was thinking about getting some of the rubber flexible wiring sleeves that most modern cars use. BMW to a nice one. Something like these

Then i am using a single wire alternator with internal regulator and have relocated my battery to the boot. I have run two heavy gauge main cables from the boot. Where do i go from here to connect to my harness. Iis there a main terminal/fuse i need to go to before going to the loom?

And finally the gearbox connections(Speedo, neutral safety). Where is the best way to route the cables. Just drill a hole and go through the firewall and down along the inside of the tunnel?

 

[cmayna]

Re: Speedo and NSS wiring. Electric Speedometer? Don't you already have a speedo cable hole in the firewall?
What transmission are you running?

 

[Johnny M]

Re: Speedo and NSS wiring. Electric Speedometer? Don't you already have a speedo cable hole in the firewall?
What transmission are you running?

I am running an electric speedo on a Tremec TKO600

 

[cmayna]

Then why not run the wiring down the same path as the original speedometer cable?

 

[Johnny M]

Then why not run the wiring down the same path as the original speedometer cable?

Is that top of the firewall above the clutch cylinder?

 

[Horseplay]

I used similar rubber sleeves to route the wiring to my doors for the locks and window motors. I originally tried a set of braided stainless sleeves but didn't like the way they functioned. They extended in and out of a grommet as the door was opened or closed. The depth of movement caused some clearance issues I didn't want to deal with.

As I do with most things I over analyzed it to death. Worrying about where to put the holes, alignment etc. In the end, it was a really simple job.

 

[GypsyR]

I used rubber sleeves like those but longer and with smaller diameter round ends on my '67. From a 1980's Ford Ranger I believe. (I tried a few different ones and it was a couple of years ago.) They are just barely long enough. My doors and A-pillar didn't have holes, just "dimples". I used the dimples as guides and used two different carefully chosen hole saws. For some annoying reason the ends are different diameters and I wanted a snug fit. For a good straight shot drilling the holes I ended up taking both fenders AND doors off.
Worked for me but I did end up having to use some weatherstrip adhesive on the A-pillar ends to keep them from popping out. They stayed in fine until I loaded them with wires. The glue worked. I suspect if the holes were cut just a bit smaller I wouldn't have needed glue.

 

[Johnny M]

Then why not run the wiring down the same path as the original speedometer cable?

I figured out which one is the speedo and found the right size grommet.

Thanks for the help once again.

 

[Johnny M]

I used rubber sleeves like those but longer and with smaller diameter round ends on my '67. From a 1980's Ford Ranger I believe. (I tried a few different ones and it was a couple of years ago.) They are just barely long enough. My doors and A-pillar didn't have holes, just "dimples". I used the dimples as guides and used two different carefully chosen hole saws. For some annoying reason the ends are different diameters and I wanted a snug fit. For a good straight shot drilling the holes I ended up taking both fenders AND doors off.
Worked for me but I did end up having to use some weatherstrip adhesive on the A-pillar ends to keep them from popping out. They stayed in fine until I loaded them with wires. The glue worked. I suspect if the holes were cut just a bit smaller I wouldn't have needed glue.

Thanks for the pic. That is exactly what i had in mind.

I am going to go to the local car junk yard and get a few different type and test fit them.

 

[Horseplay]

Here's a couple pics of how I did mine. I offset the hole locations on the door and pillar for a few reasons. One, it allowed me to have the wires enter where I found it most logical and safe from other potentially moving parts (in the door). Two, placement in the pillar let the wires come in right where I wanted them for routing into the cabin. And lastly, and one I think very important, by offsetting them there was no forced motion on the wires themselves as the "sleeve" would compress with both ends mounted in the same plane. When I mocked it this way the wires were forced to either push into the door or the pillar as the rubber "sleeve" compressed. The way I went the full component(sleeve and wires) simply flex in the open space behind the fender. Less chance for the wires to get into "trouble" this way.