Gluing Weather Stripping onto Driprail Molding

[garner67]

Now that I have all the drip rail molding installed, it's time to glue in the weather stripping.

My only question is... Once the weather stripping is glued in place, should I let it cure/dry with the door open (maybe with some blue taped to hold it in place), or should I roll up the window and close the door to press/hold the weather stripping in place?

 

[Fast68back]

The channel is designed so that the weatherstrip kind of pops into it, but I still used blue painters tape to keep it in place. I would also use the windows, I had a hard time keeping the rear curved part in place, only downside to Fastback windows I suppose....

 

[johnpro]

I've never used painter's tape, but I guess I'm just not that anal. It's probably not a bad idea, but I don't know that it's all that necessary.

 

[garner67]

I finally have time Sunday to glue in my weather stripping. How long should I let it cure before I cant take the car for a spin?

 

[cmayna]

If you have the windows up why can't you simply wait an hour or so and then.....GO!

 

[garner67]

If you have the windows up why can't you simply wait an hour or so and then.....GO!

Yeah, that works, but it's such an awesome day here in the bay area (sunshine and 70*), who wants to drive with the windows up?!

 

[daveSanborn]

(maybe with some blue taped to hold it in place),

The above statement tells me that you're not familar with the correct procedure to apply 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Don't feel bad, it took me several cars before I figured it out.

The adhesive should be applied in the following manner, any deviation will result in less than stellar adhesion/results.

1. Clean the new weatherstrip of any preservative. This is usually a white "chalky/powder" substance.

2. Scuff the to be glued side of the weatherstrip with ~100 grit sandpaper.

3. Lay each piece of the weatherstrip out onto a flat surface such as a workbench.

4. Weigh down each end of the weatherstrip so that the to be glued side is facing "up".

5. Apply a thin coat of 3M weatherstrip adhesive to the rubber channel with a small applicator brush (or your finger).

6. Let it dry for 5 minutes.

7. While the rubber channel is drying on the workbench, after wiping the roof side rail channel clean of any dirt/dust/debris, apply a similar coat of adhesive to the flat mating surfacce of the channel.

8. Let it dry for 5 minutes.

9. Making 100% sure that you have the correct side of channel, proceed to the car with the 3M adhesive. Starting at either end of the rubber, apply a SECOND thin coat of adhesive to a 6-8" section of the rubber and mate the rubber to the channel. Continue working in 6-8" increments checking along the way that the end of the rubber will terminate at the end of the channel (and not be too short or too long).

It's the application of the third coat of adhesive that really gets the job done. If you just slap some adhesive onto the rubber and stuff it into the channel it doesn't really adhere very well/very quickly. Using the above method the bond will be "intantaneous". Once the "third" coat of adhesive contacts the first and second applications (one on each mating surface) the bond is "instant". DO NOT work too fast, once that third coat contacts the first and second coats.... if the rubber is not aligned properly.... you'll have a heckuva time trying to seperate the bond.

This method should be used for not only roof side rail channel, but also the door's and deck lid weatherstrip.


So to answer your original question....

Within 5 minutes of properly applying the roof side rail weatherstrip....... you should be able to run your car through the local car wash with the windows rolled down and it will not effect the installation of the weatherstrip.

 

[66gt350]

GREAT tutorial, Dave!! I'll have to remember this when I go to tackle the weather stripping on the wife's mustang.

 

[garner67]

No kidding, Dave, that was a great explanation. This was the 2nd time I had installed weather stripping, and it was the most successful.

I had called my paint & body guy, and he explained the exact same procedure. Apply one coat of adhesive to each surface; let it cure; then, apply a third coat to either surface and press together. Also, he stressed the importance of prepping the new weather stripping... it's really important to clean and scuff the new rubber surface before applying the adhesive.

Everything went smoothly this time, and the weather stripping seems to really be holding to the window channel very well.

Now I just need to work up the guts to drill holes in my new paint to mount my side mirrors!

 

[daveSanborn]

drill holes in my new paint to mount my side mirrors!

I know what you mean.... measure a bunch of times before drilling. Make sure the wing windows fully open/close BEFORE you drill any holes.

If they're not OEM style mirrors, but instead "bullets" or some other optional mirror, you may want to have someone hold the mirror into your proposed position while you sit behind the wheel to check for functionality before drilling any holes in the door. We have bullet style mirrors installed on both my son's and my FB and actually viewing anything in them is a pain in the neck.... literally.... they don't adjust inward very far and you have to lean your head out the window in order to see anything behind you in the mirror.

 

[garner67]

I know what you mean.... measure a bunch of times before drilling. Make sure the wing windows fully open/close BEFORE you drill any holes.

If they're not OEM style mirrors, but instead "bullets" or some other optional mirror, you may want to have someone hold the mirror into your proposed position while you sit behind the wheel to check for functionality before drilling any holes in the door. We have bullet style mirrors installed on both my son's and my FB and actually viewing anything in them is a pain in the neck.... literally.... they don't adjust inward very far and you have to lean your head out the window in order to see anything behind you in the mirror.

Yeah, I have the bullet mirrors. They do look great, but you confirmed my visibility concerns.

Besides the visibility issue, I don't like that these mirrors are supposed to be mounted with sheet metal screws. Since I have my door panels removed now, I think I'm going to try bolting the mirrors onto the doors. Mounting with sheet metal screws sounds a bit lame to me. Sounds like it would be best to find someone to lend me a hand with this project.


These are the mirrors I bought.

 

[tarafied1]

those bullet mirrors look cool but suck for visibility. I found a round dome shaped mirror the same diameter and put it on the right side mirror and it helped a lot. left side is still pretty useless, like Dave said, you have pretty much stick your head out the window.