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Got it done

R

RustyRed

Active Member
Got the new Trick Flow pan installed along with the new dipstick / tube this evening.

This new pan really is a lot heavier and I think (and hope) it will fix my leak issue. I added the rubber gasket and while I was at it said screw it and changed the filter.

I did leave it up on stands while I added the first couple of quarts of fluid...I climbed back under and looked at the new tube to make sure there was no fluid on the outside.

Only took a couple of hours from starting to put the car up on stands to taking it back down.
 
I'll try to get some pictures of it when I get a chance but last night I was pretty greasy thanks to taking the pan off. On the plus, I left news print under it last night then took it for a spin this morning and put the news print back under it when I got home and I have zero leaks.

Now I need to find a vaccum gauge and figure out how the bleep to use it to adjust my carb. I adjusted the idle down when it was way to high at first and that helped some. I also adjusted the choke some and that helped it when it is first started up.

But the way it is still shifting kind of "funny" from 1st to 2nd (really shifting late) and trying to stall out until it warms up good, etc makes me think I need to adjust the carb more than just the idle and choke settings.

All of it together makes me think I need to adjust it some since the directions say to adjust it to the highest vaccum reading on the gauge.
 
"RustyRed" said:
But the way it is still shifting kind of "funny" from 1st to 2nd (really shifting late) and trying to stall out until it warms up good, etc makes me think I need to adjust the carb more than just the idle and choke settings.
Click to expand...

If it's a C4 (and maybe C6s?), make sure you don't have a vac leak on the vac line going to the modulator (near the back of the trans). A leak there will cause delayed shift and screw with your carb adjusting.
 
Yep! photos? or A photo! lol :pop now you'll have to get a mirror to place beneath your stang where you park it so you can marvel at your pan! It is totally awesome!
dne'
 
"apollard" said:
If it's a C4 (and maybe C6s?), make sure you don't have a vac leak on the vac line going to the modulator (near the back of the trans). A leak there will cause delayed shift and screw with your carb adjusting.
Click to expand...

With the new pan I've finally gotten to drive it some more than just a fast run here and there. With the pan leaking I didn't want to drive it much and had to top off the fluid prior to short runs.

But now it is shifting but still feels like a vacuum issue. Last night coming home from a car club thing it was sluggish off the line in first and seemed a little slow in shifting to second. BTW, fluid level is fine since I got it to running temp and made sure it was full on Saturday morning.

I think the carb needs adjusting. At first the idle was set way too high so I turned that down. It still tries to stall out when you first fire it up from cold. That would be one thing if it was cold out but it's been 75 give take degrees out. Odd thing was adjusting the choke a couple of clicks did help it some and stop the backfires, etc.

I have a vacuum gauge so I will probably try to adjust the carb when I get a chance.

But one question....there are several vacuum ports on the carb. One has a line running from the carb to the distributor. But there are a couple of others. One comes off the side of the carb in front of th choke. Directions say that is for power brakes if you have them...I don't. There is another off the back of the carb that is for brakes also (I think). If you are not using them, should you plug them or just leave them open?
 
"AzPete" said:
Plug all un-used vacuum lines. Then set carb.
Click to expand...

+1. Also, the vac line to the trans should be under manifold vac. Carbs have manifold vac ports, but mine comes off the manifold itself, just behind the carb.
 
"apollard" said:
+1. Also, the vac line to the trans should be under manifold vac. Carbs have manifold vac ports, but mine comes off the manifold itself, just behind the carb.
Click to expand...

That's how mine is set up at the moment. There is a T connection coming off the manifold. One side goes to the trans and the other side is attached to the passengers' side valve cover.

I am assuming after setting the carb all the vacuum lines would remain plugged if not in use?

Sorry for the stupid questions but carbs have never been my area of expertise but I've been learning a lot about them in the last week or so, LOL!
 
"RustyRed" said:
I am assuming after setting the carb all the vacuum lines would remain plugged if not in use?
Click to expand...

Any not in use need to be plugged, or you'll never get it set correctly.
 
Yes, any un-used vacuum lines would add air to the mixture if opened after the carb is set. Leave them plugged.
 
Cool, thanks for the advice!

One other potentially stupid question....can I stick a short hose on the unused ones and stick a bolt in the end or is there a better way to plug them off?
 
That will work. Getting small caps looks better but the hose and bolt will work. Just make sure the fit is tight.
 
is there a better way to plug them off?
Click to expand...

Your local auto parts store will carry/sell an assortment pack of vacuum caps/plugs. Use them for a permanent solution; bolts/screws stuck in the end of a rubber hose should only be a temporary fix.

Have you ever changed the modulator valve on the C4? It's not uncommon for them to go bad. Keep this in mind if after adjusting the carb the sluggish shifting problem persists.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Have you ever changed the modulator valve on the C4? It's not uncommon for them to go bad. Keep this in mind if after adjusting the carb the sluggish shifting problem persists.
Click to expand...

Haven't changed it yet but I've sure been kicking the idea around thinking it wouldn't hurt anything.
 
Clean the trans mod. good and see if there's a paint stripe, when you go to the parts store you'll find out that there are different color stripes in the same year set at different vacuum which will also change your shift patterns, match your original color. If there is trans fluid leaking out of the nipple of the modulator it's bad.

I'd replace the 90* piece of rubber vacuum line at the modulator, they get forgotten about and dry out/crack after 40+ yrs. Replace it with a molded 90* or it will kink, change the short piece at the rear of the engine while you're at it at the opposite end of the metal line.

Another common source of vacuum leak is the vac. advance on the dist. Remove the cap and find the arm that extends from the vac adv., now pull the vacuum line off the carb and suck on it as hard as you can - the arm should pull into the vac adv., if it doesn't your vac adv. diaphragm is shot (again 40yrs.). If it does pull in and stays when you hold suction on the line it should be ok. If it goes back out it's bad and is not allowing your ign. to advance with RPM and causing a vacuum leak.
Let us know what you find.
Jon
 
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