Got my Upper and Lower control arms yesterday

[66gt350]

There was a box waiting for me by the garage when I got home. The upper and lower control arms look awesome. I spent way too much time last night out in the shop (and I'm paying for it this morning...I hope I don't fall asleep on the keyboard). I got one side almost done...I'm hoping that the new adjustable strut rods will be in tonight, and just finish torquing the swaybar and lower control arm. Here's a few pics:

Thanks alot Shaun. They're awesome!!!!

 

[garner67]

Awesome!

Did you lower the upper A-arm location? Sounds like you'll have it back on the ground this weekend!

 

[Shaun]

Wow, you work quickly!

They look great. Let me know how the alignment goes and if you have any questions.

 

[66gt350]

I had previously done the a arm relocation. So, I didn't have to do that.

Luckily (if you consider having a bad upper ball joint lucky!!), I had the front suspension disassembled, so I just had to start installing the parts. I have an appointment Friday morning to get the new fenders fitted, and in the afternoon I'll get her aligned.

I'll be terrorizing the neighborhood this weekend!!! :ecit :ecit

 

[AtlantaSteve]

Looks very sweet!

Question if you don't mind...did you have any issues with the headers getting in the way of installing the A-Arm nuts? I can torque them down with a wrench, but not with a torque-wrench+Socket. So I'm not sure how to get them torqued to the right numbers. Aside from just guessing with the wrenches. Any hints?

 

[Shaun]

Looks very sweet!

Question if you don't mind...did you have any issues with the headers getting in the way of installing the A-Arm nuts? I can torque them down with a wrench, but not with a torque-wrench+Socket. So I'm not sure how to get them torqued to the right numbers. Aside from just guessing with the wrenches. Any hints?

With the upper installed without the ball joint in the spindle, you can push the upper as low as it will go and usually get a socket on from the wheel side.

 

[AtlantaSteve]

With the upper installed without the ball joint in the spindle, you can push the upper as low as it will go and usually get a socket on from the wheel side.

Clever...my UCA's are OpenTracker's non-roller modified stock arms, so they just have the bolts that are pressed into the shafts, but I guess i could press them out and go get the correct size Grade 8 Hardware, right?

Thanks!

 

[66gt350]

Wow, you work quickly!

They look great. Let me know how the alignment goes and if you have any questions.

Well, went and got it aligned last friday...boy did the guy say not nice things about old mustangs and shimming the upper control arms. I finally got the front end put on and drove it home tonight. It drives pretty good. I'm just not sure about the camber caster. It looks like the tires are awefully far forward. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics...

Or should I lay down the crack pipe????

 

[Shaun]

If you don't like the look but like the caster setting. You can lengthen the strut rod (assuming it is adjustable - can't remember if you have ours or not) and shim the front UCA bolt more.

What specs did he get?

 

[66gt350]

Shaun,

I do have a set of the TCP adjustable strut rods. I called the shop this afternoon and this is what he said that he aligned it to. Caster: DS: 1 1/2°, PS: 2°. Toe: 1/8", Camber: DS: 1/4°, PS: 3/8°. Is it normal to have different degrees for driver's and passenger sides?

 

[Shaun]

Shaun,

I do have a set of the TCP adjustable strut rods. I called the shop this afternoon and this is what he said that he aligned it to. Caster: DS: 1 1/2°, PS: 2°. Toe: 1/8", Camber: DS: 1/4°, PS: 3/8°. Is it normal to have different degrees for driver's and passenger sides?

Some guys like to setup caster that way for street driving to deal with the crown in the road. I like to get my caster/camber within 1/8 of a degree from side to side so he isn't that far off. I hope those camber figures are negative numbers...