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heater control valves

guruatbol

guruatbol

Always on vacation!
Ok, on the 65 one of the issues I have found driving it daily is that the hot water circulates through the heater core all the time and makes it very hot to drive in the heat in St. George.

I was thinking if I get a heater control valve that is electronically controlled I could instal one under the hood and a switch under the dash to just turn off the hot water in the heat and turn it back on when I get up the mountain where I live and it is cooler.

The problem is I have no idea where to find one or even which one to buy. I don't care if it is Ford or not or even from something vintage. I just want one I can wire to a simple toggle switch under my dash.

Any help would be appreciated.

Mel
 
Mel,

I agree that that heater core throws out alot of heat into the car when it's hot out. When I first got my fastback, on the heater hoses there was a manual valve that I could shut off water to the heater core. I've had to remove it when I did the efi swap...there's a temp sensor for the computer on one of those lines. There's got to be an electric valve out there somewhere.

-rob
 
There was a cable controlled valve on my Dad's '72 F100 w/302 auto. Easy to control manually. Went in the top hose.

On all my '66s, I found that once I rebuilt the heater box and had it properly adjusted, I felt no heat from the core.

I also read that mid 80 Crown Vics might have an elec, one.
 
I found a 1985 crown Vic valve that is electric. When I go into town tomorrow I will stop at napa I will get what I need and install it Thursday.

I will post pics and results....

Mel

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk
 
Cool...I think that second link was for a 90's crown vic. I need to figure out how to make one work on my car!!!
 
It would be a bonus I would think, if that valve is normally closed. Then it would be fairly easy to mount a micro switch on the back of the heat control lever, so it would only open when actually need it and not have the solenoid valve energized constantly. kip
 
I found a valve, but now the problem is how should it be wired? I want it to fail closed so to speak. When the power is off I want it to be closed and when I turn the switch on I want it open.

I mean if it opened when the power was off, I could run with the switch on and just turn it off when I parked and make sure it was hooked to a keyed power source. I would rather not though.

I think the valve in the Excursion fails closed....

Mel
 
How does the valve work as it is? Does applying power open or close the valve? If it currently sits in your hand with no power applied, I would say it closes with power removed. Apply power and see what happens.

Another way is if it uses power to open and close....could be a double action solenoid.

How many wires?
 
I would keep an eye on engine temperature before and after this mod, Mel. Restricting the flow of engine coolant from the heater core path will likely add a few degrees when all is said and done.
 
"Horseplay" said:
I would keep an eye on engine temperature before and after this mod, Mel. Restricting the flow of engine coolant from the heater core path will likely add a few degrees when all is said and done.
Click to expand...

It runs right now at 190 in traffic on a 105 degree day....I will watch it. I can add a shroud if need be and possibly gain the cooling lost. If it gets hot I can always open the valve....

Mel
 
OK, I finally was in town at the same time I had time to stop at the parts store. I got the manual heater control valve since the electronic one from the Crown Vic fails open. There are a couple of vacuum line places on it too. I am not sure I want to spend the time it would take for me to figure it out.

Since this car will eventually get AC and this issue will completely go away when I remove the old heater box in favor of the new one, I got he manual setup.

Now my question is which hose to put in? I can't remember what direction the water flows in. Is it the top hose that flows into the heater core?

Mel
 
Install (2) 3-way valves, like these - in-line in each heater hose:
3-way-control-ball-valve-506325.jpg



And then install a new piece of hose between each valve to create a new loop. Set each valve to the 2nd flow position and the water will continue to flow through the new section of hose and and continue to cycle through the system, just not into the heater box. just make sure you have the valves selected to flow in the correct direction.
 
I already have the one mentioned above by 66gt350...

I do like the solution with the two three way valves though.

Mel
 
On my '68, the valve is in the hose that comes from the intake manifold. Not sure if that is the upper one on the firewall, though.
 
In theory, it shouldn't matter which hose the valve goes in. When the valve is closed it will stop water flow going through the heater core. IIRC, I had mine installed on the lower hose coming out of the firewall. And that was mainly because the inlet/outlet is offset on the valve and it raised the hose to about the top of the manifold -- where the heater lines were running, as seen in the "old" version of my engine compartment in my signature.
 
Makes no difference.....Dad's truck had it in the top hose.....which is easier to work on.
 
Ok the dead is done. I installed a manual valve in the top hose. I warmed it up and then closed the valve. I drove it to the mailbox, but it isn't hot here right now. It is too busy with the thunder and lightning to be hot. Just humid.

Anyway, it warmed up and no heat from under the dash.

I will see how it works on the way to work tonight.

Oh, the requisite pics are on the way....

Mel
 
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