• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Help with my '92 Ford Explorer?

DeadStang

Member
Background: I've had this SUV for a couple of months and it "seemed" to have a bad battery or a battery drain after the first couple of weeks. First sign, it wouldn't turn over one day to start, the wipers were really slow, and the heater blower motor ran really slow. OK, I needed a new battery--it was cheap car with a 24 month battery from 1997, so that's no surprise. So I hooked it up to my charger and had no issues the next time I went to drive it.

When I replaced the battery, we checked that the alternator was charging, the starter pulled the right amount of juice, and there didn't seem to be a drain (all this was checked by the 12-year-old kid at the Battery Exchange place on his big machine thingy). Things were good for a month or so. This is my "spare" 1st generation Explorer, so I don't drive it a lot. So the other day, I hop in, it starts, but the wipers are slow and the heater fan is slow. Hmmm... I think OK, I must really have a battery drain somewhere and the kid and his machine didn't catch it. So I hook the car up to my trickle charger again overnight and gave it a full charge.

Yesterday morning, I go out and try to start it. Nothing--and the check engine light comes on and stays on, even with the ignition off! So I figure that something was wrong with my ignition switch itself, because it really is messed up. [The ignition metal switch part turns independently of the key.] I bypassed the ignition in the column by turning the key on and jumping the solenoid to the positive battery terminal and still nothing. So I unhooked the battery and replaced the solenoid. Then, I hooked the battery back up--the negative sparked and there is a noise (some type of click) coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Hmmm. Back inside the car, the check engine light is back on with the key out and ignition off, BUT there are no interior lights and the door locks and window regulators do not work as if the battery is not hooked up. And jumping the solenoid still doesn't work. Repeatedly unhooking and hooking up the negative battery cable produces the same single noise (maybe under the fuse box?) and spark, gives me the check engine light, and no other evidence of having the battery hooked up.

I'm thinking it's simple, like a relay somewhere that finally went bad, but my mechanical knowledge extends to the vintage, not these "new fangled" things without carburetors and having all of these electric doodads and such from the 1990s. Ideas?
 
My money is on the battery cables. I had a '92 Explorer in '92 and there was a known problem with the cables rotting out from the inside. They looked fine but they were of low quality and ther car crapped out in '94. Ford replaced them under warranty when the car was less than 2 years old. I sold it a year later so I don't know how long the warranty replacements lasted.
 
The arc you're getting at the ground is indicative of a draw on the battery. If the car is equipped with air bags a short draw when the battery is connected is normal but just long enough to charge the capacitors in the air bag computer.


I'm not familiar with the product enough to advise you too far, but I'd say you have a dead short that may have become a cross circuit short.


I'd pull one fuse/relay at a time, reconnect the cable and see if the arc goes away. When the arc goes away, you know what circuit is affected.
 
I've been attempting to do some research on the Explorer Forums. It's amazing how into Explorers(!) some of these guys are (come on, we're talking about Explorers here, WTF?), and how much detail is posted! I'm finding discussions about things called DPFE Sensors and the EEC Relay; problems with these "things" sound like they create similar issues as to what my clunker is exhibiting. Someone actually posted a beautifully detailed "How-To" on what the DPFE Sensor looks like, it's location, and all sorts of wiring stuff and engine codes it throws, so I may actually be able to test that fairly simply. But I'm getting my nose rubbed in the fact that cars with computers that require little machines to read codes are somewhat beyond my capabilities to work on. :shrug Replacing the solenoid was one thing (there are actually two on the Explorer, I am told--the other is located on the starter itself), but I don't even think I am capable of replacing the battery cables on this car.
 
"DeadStang" said:
But I'm getting my nose rubbed in the fact that cars with computers that require little machines to read codes are somewhat beyond my capabilities to work on. :shrug
No code reader needed.... The EEC test plug is located on the right fender well near the fuse panel. Been a while, but you need to ground one of the terminals and the check engine light will flash the codes. Just google them.
 
"JeffTepper" said:
My money is on the battery cables. I had a '92 Explorer in '92 and there was a known problem with the cables rotting out from the inside. They looked fine but they were of low quality and ther car crapped out in '94. Ford replaced them under warranty when the car was less than 2 years old. I sold it a year later so I don't know how long the warranty replacements lasted.

All right--the Doofus award goes to me. It was the battery cable. But it's also getting a new ignition before that also leaves me stranded. Sigh. :roul
 
Back
Top