Help with Radiator selection '69 Small Block (351w)

[Fantastic]

I'm shopping for a Radiator.
My car is a '69 Mach I with a 351w and 4 speed toploader.
The car does not currently have A/C, but I will probably put it in.

First choice is between factory (NOS or Repro) or aftermarket.
I see a lot of aftermarket rads out there, but I am a big fan of factory equipment if it does the job.

How many different Radiators were put in the '69 Mustang? What should I look for?
For example, I am checking out a NOS rad from '69; is it better, or even different than the repro?
Why do so many people opt for the aluminum aftermarket rads??

Thanks

 

[blue65coupe]

Most people upgrade to aluminum due to it not holding heat like the stock ones. I wish I would've went aluminum and will be doing so in the future. I haven't seen any difference between NOS and a GOOD repro.

 

[buening]

IIRC there is the 20" and the 24" radiator in stock form. The 20" mounts directly to the radiator support, whereas the 24" needs the upper saddle mount and the lower brackets. If you want a stock radiator, get the 24" with as many cores as possible (4 is max IIRC).

 

[Sluggo]

IIRC there is the 20" and the 24" radiator in stock form. The 20" mounts directly to the radiator support, whereas the 24" needs the upper saddle mount and the lower brackets. If you want a stock radiator, get the 24" with as many cores as possible (4 is max IIRC).

+1

Get the 4 row 24 if you go for the stock look. It would have been standard in a 351 car with A/C.

 

[Fantastic]

I think the stock look 24" 4 core is the way to go for me.
It seems the repro is every bit as good as the original.

IS there any difference between the radiators for standard and auto transmissions?

 

[Sluggo]

I think the stock look 24" 4 core is the way to go for me.
It seems the repro is every bit as good as the original.

IS there any difference between the radiators for standard and auto transmissions?

A real standard trans radiator will not have the bungs welded/soldered in the lower tank for cooler lines. I think when I bought my radiator (prior to T5 install) it was one fits all type with plugs for the bungs if you are running a standard.

 

[miketyler]

Is more cores/rows necessarily "better"? I mean, does a radiator with four rows of 1/2" tubes cool better than one with two rows of 1.0" tubes? I thought I had read some debate on the "more rows is better" somewhere. Not trying to stir anything up here, just curious if any of you had first hand experiencing in comparing them.

I am looking for a radiator for my 351c AC car and havent ruled out copper/brass construction radiators.

 

[AzPete]

More rows gives more surface metal to remove the heat to the cooler air flow. Then, you get into how thick the radiator is and is the air flow restricted by having more and smaller tubes. I have read where two rows have better air flow which helps the fact of a bit less surface area.

I have no proof of this.....just somethings I have read.

 

[cmayna]

Is more cores/rows necessarily "better"? I mean, does a radiator with four rows of 1/2" tubes cool better than one with two rows of 1.0" tubes? I thought I had read some debate on the "more rows is better" somewhere. Not trying to stir anything up here, just curious if any of you had first hand experiencing in comparing them.

I am looking for a radiator for my 351c AC car and havent ruled out copper/brass construction radiators.

Mike. Go for a Northern Alum radiator for the cleveland. 2 rows being 1" each. Best decision I made with my motor.

 

[cmayna]

IIRC there is the 20" and the 24" radiator in stock form. The 20" mounts directly to the radiator support, whereas the 24" needs the upper saddle mount and the lower brackets. If you want a stock radiator, get the 24" with as many cores as possible (4 is max IIRC).

You can install a 24" radiator like you would with a 20" unit, directly to the radiator support, with some homemade brackets. I did in Shag.